Bambikiller240

I had a front clip put on my first 240Z due to an accident. The body shop had to have the chassis on a frame jig in order to place the clip correctly prior to welding it into place.

How could a person tell it was a 74 compared to a 73?

Again, best to ask them what they are selling you IMO. The ones I got from Courtesy were 240Z seals. I am told the way to tell them apart in addition to the part number is that 240Z seals do not have the welting built into the seal, the 280Z seals do.

So, do your S/S lines have a male fitting on one end and a female end on the other. Or female fittings on both ends? Or are there banjo fittings on one end of your lines?

It's been a long time since I dealt with this issue, but there was something different between the types of linkage for Flat Tops, and what was needed for Round Tops when I did a switch on a 1973 Z car that I used to own. I *think* it was related to the length of that "J" shaped linkage rod, and the linkage on the balance tube had to be compatible with the linkage between the 2 carbs. ZTherapy is a good place to ask questions.

I don't think the ones from Courtesy are aftermarket. Best to confirm before ordering IMO I *think* MikeW was saying that they probably aren't "240Z" seals, but rather are the "280Z" seals. At least that's how I undestood his post.

It was 2 years ago, but I didn't pay that much for the OEM "240Z" door seals I got from Courtesy. Not even close to that price, IIRC

Yeah, you can get ripped on eBay, but if you're buying something of great value, you should make sure that an ESCROW service is part of the auction to protect yourself, if you can't inspect the item before the end of the auction. Caveat Emptor!

Oh yeah, on the one I installed ("Wheelskins" brand) I had to trim 1/2" off the bottom of the boot because the leather was folded over and stitched (double thick) for some reason. If I hadn't done that, I'd never have gotten the clips installed

Mark: I have heard of people eliminating the small "brake bridge" (Nissans name for it) hard line and connecting the S/S lines directly to the caliper. The S/S lines I got from MSA (not part of a kit with Calipers) didn't have banjo fittings, so they must be supplying a different (possibly longer length) S/S hose with the 4 pot caliper kit.

Good advice. Be careful installing the clips. The leather is thicker than the old vinyl boot. I used a small screw driver to (CAREFULLY) pry the clips over the console lip. On some of the clips I had to use a small ball peen hammer to finish seating the clips fully. Take your time.

No. I don't remember. I just "guestimated" and made sure the bolts I got were more than long enough, then I did a quick trial fit at home, and cut the bolts to proper length so that they wouldn't bottom out in the Diff cover before the Moustache bar was secured.

He probably would have been happier if OnStar had instead called a bartender to deliver him another drink. Now that you mention that situation, I recall a news story a while back in the Bay Area (CA) that reported an OnStar customers airbag had gone off and the authorities were contacted. As OnStar tried to give the authorities the vehicles location via the GPS, they noticed that the car had left the point of the initial Air Bag deployment and was still mobile. Later the GPS signal showed the car located at the owners residence, so the police showed up there to arrest him. Turns out there had indeed been a hit & run accident at the Air Bag deployment location (CHP logs were used to confirm) and the OnStar data was used to place him at that location and convict him. Bet he's not too thrilled with OnStar either.

just what I was thinking.

All Valid Points. I have AAA+ too, (been a member for almost 18 years), so far, but I'm shopping Also, I worked for CA State Auto Assn. (the Nor Cal AAA club) for almost 5 years in customer service. Sadly, the level of service in this particular club (I wouldn't know about any other AAA club) has gone down hill while the cost of membership has risen sharply over the past few years. They also charge you on a per person basis, not per vehicle; which is silly. 2 parents, and 3 driving teenagers pay for 5 memberships even if they share 1 car, or 2 cars, or 3 cars........ If you don't have AAA+ and want to get it: Eligibility 1. You must be a CSAA Member for one year or more. 2. You may only upgrade at the time of renewal. 3. No more than 4 Emergency Road Service calls for your household (which means for all of your members combined) in the past 12 months. 4. No towing services used by your household in the past 12 months. If you have AAA+ and your household (no matter how many members that is) uses more than 4 towing services in a year, you will lose your AAA+ and will need to meet all the above eligibilty requirements in order to be allowed to purchase it again (that means your entire family must go without using towing services for 12 full months while continuing to pay for your memberships!) It's no wonder that the total membership in the club is dropping, now that there are more alternatives to consider. OnStar sounds like a great service from what I've heard. I don't know of anyone who is dissatified with it. Does anyone know of a dissatisfied OnStar customer? I'm curious.

Well the AAA in Northern CA (separate club from So Cal) didn't have one for me. But, Oregon /WA AAA is a different club.(most states have a separate AAA club, though some clubs do serve more than one state) Maybe they have one for you. Ya might ask next time you drive by an AAA office. In Northern CA the AAA doesn't provide very good service anymore, anyway.

Mike, Those Blondstar calls are a riot ! !

I don't know anything about these newer cars, just going by what they said to me. One additional thing I forgot to mention is that they (AAA) do not recommend that you use the credit card key in the ignition as they (the C.C. keys) have a tendency to melt at even low heat, and ruin the ignition lock. They didn't have a blank C.C. key for my Z last time I checked anyway

tell us something we don't know!

Pic# 2 and 3 (from left) look like what I have always seen on my 71, 72, and 73 240Z's. The Pic # 5 (from left) is something I'vew never seen before. I've never seen how the 280Z wheel cylinder mounts to the backing plate, but what you are describing, sounds like they way it is secured on 240Z's. I *think* that in order to replace backing plate, you'd have to disassemble the Hub/Stub Axle. If you want the R and L to match, I think you'd be better off replacing the entire hub/strut assembly.

Yeah, we can get those credit card keys from our AAA club. (If they have a card with the proper "key blank" for your car) They told that they may not offer them for much longer cause more and more newer cars have keys with a "chip" in them ( part of a security system or something) and the credit card key is useless on those cars.

If you aren't willing to defend what you say, then you must not believe in the validity of what you said, ...........and probably should have said nothing in the first place.

Sadly, those damn "Cranksters" are almost everywhere these days. Too bad there isn't an "open season" on them. :devious:

I don't know, but below are the contact info for them. Perhaps they know. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/ JTR@JagsThatRun.com

Also, buy a manual or two that pertains to the car you own. You can get Haynes manuals for about $10-$14 on eBay. Chiltons, or Clymers manuals are also good. The best one and most expensive would be a Factory Service Manual (~$80) A lot of questions can be answered with a little reading, and the pictures and diagrams are invaluable to someone learning about, and working on your car.