justaZcarguy

First of all, let me say how amazed I am that that people that have never met face-to-face can pull together and help a friend in need. Keith, Your mother is lucky to have a dedicated son, such as yourself, to be by her side and aide her in this most difficult time. The support and love you are giving her is more powerful that any medication out there, continue your dedication and remain strong. Your family is in our prayers and we will be thinking of you. Best regards, Brian and the LeClair family.

Mornin'! Yesterday I switched from the flat-tops to a set of round... No vac leaks, no fuel leaks. Back carb is running rich, VERY rich. We are talking Richy Rich here, the adjustment for the jets on the bottom of the carb is dialed ALL the way up and the car still runs. Idle seems smooth is the funny thing, then, if you depress the throttle about half way and hold it, you get a motor that's suddenly only reving about 800 then falling, acting like it's starving instead of climbing in RPM. This is if you depress the throttle and hold it, it just sits and stumbles like it's running out of fuel. Which there is little or no rich smoke coming out the exhaust during this, but if you just quickly depress the throttle and let it go, you get a quick rev and a lot of black smoke, like rich burn, not blue like oil smoke. I have never messed around with these carbs, this is a first for me. I have a air synchrometer and they are both balanced flow wise. There is 3 and 1 oil in the chambers (about 20wt.). The front carb seems to be operating fine. Now, I am getting this result by lifting up the pistion all the way into the dome and seeing if the engine stumbles. (Running lean, right?) it stumbles when I lift up the piston in the rear carb, but runs smooth when the front piston is all the way up. I've waited for it to begin to stumble and it won't. So, you would dial up on the bottom adjustment to lean it out, right? (on the rear carb) Well, the adjustment is dialed ALL the way up (on both carbs). And with the adjustment knobs on the bottom of the carb all the up on both, how is the engine even running? I thought the needle would be "seated" and this would cut off fuel???? Sorry to ramble on, it's early and I need some coffee. Anyway, I also need some help... Thanks all.... Have a nice Sunday! With any luck I will also! :tapemouth

OK, here's the scenario, this engine is the one in the '74 260. It's been built from head to toe, L28 / N42 setup, bored, hemispherical pistons, cam, head is polished and ported, mikuni intake with triple mikunis, mallory dual point ign., headers, bla, bla, bla. The motor sat for about 1 year. Has been run hard for the last 40k miles or so. Compression on the number 1 hole (front of the motor, closest to the fan) is 150. The heat coming off the header at that hole is way cooler that the rest. Seems to miss. Have replaced the wires, plugs, cap rotor... With the compression at 150 it doesn't seem like it could be rings. I know this is vague, anyone have a place to start on this? The motor has plenty of power but the miss is driving me crazy, and no, it does not seem like a cam rough idle. I can give specifics on the exhaust temps later but last time I checked it was 100 degrees difference or so. This was established by using an infared temp gun with a laser. Advice? Places to start? If this is not enough info, I'm sorry, this is being composed at work and I need to hurry. Questions are welcome.... Just need a place to start on this.... Thanks all!

I just had to say that the new site looks GREAT!! (And yes, you can say that "Tony the tiger style"...) The new chat room is a great upgrade!!!! I have to say I kind miss "Shout" tho, it was a great way to start my day.... In short, Thanks for all your hard work and dedication to not only an excellent car / sickness, but to also a bunch of people that have made this site a part of their everyday lives!! THANK YOU MIKE!! Bri.

In some sick way that makes total sense...:sick: Now just tell me how to tune my triple mikuni setup and we'll be great. I actually have a somewhat dead number 1 hole that I need to address. This motor is on the '74 260. But that's a whole different posting... Ya'll have a great Tuesday!!! Bri

Hello, I have been told that the stock "round tops" that were produced earlier that your flat top Hit's will deliver all the fuel that the motor needs. Currently I am in the process of switching over to the round tops from the flats on my '73 240... The performance is much better from the homework that I have done. You may want to check out Ztherapy.com, they have some excellent advice. Good luck! Bri.

Hey Alan!!! Thanks for the reply that we have all been waiting for!!! I still wish that I had 1/10th of your knowledge!! Any advice on what would cause a lean miss in these carbs?? These sat for a while and the number one seems to have a pop to it. I can't complain tho, I got the whole car cheap.... Thanks for any advice... Have a great Monday!! (Sorry 'bout the K&N's )

The time has come to switch over the flat-tops to a set of round tops.... Here's the question: What is different regarding the linkage set up ? Can I use the existing firewall set up? I've been told that the only linkage difference is the between the carbs... Help!! Thanks everyone!!

How are ya???? Could be...the problem was MUCH worse before the intake redo, you could actually feel the air hit your fingers upon backfiring and when I shot carb cleaner in the area it was like getting a shot of NOS. When the choke is on it seems to change. Doesn't seem to do it as much... Funny thing is, the engine runs smooth at an idle and above the "troubled area". The guy that built the engine was over this weekend and said that if he and his father figured right, it was pushing around 300 h.p.. I won't have any idea how accurate that is until I get the clutch and water pump redone. I know this much, even WITH a spun clutch it wants to GO. Looks like it's centerforce time. He said that they tried to cheapo out with a stock clutch and it was history in about 20 miles. It just couldn't take it. Any other suggestions on clutch??? He got about two years on the centerforce, so I figure it works. I thought about having Ot's friction supply make me a paper / fibre setup. Anyway, thanks for the advice on the popping.... Have a great Saturday...Watch out for those corners :devious:

And no, this is not like a "near" miss. Which to me is kinda like "giant shrimp". ANYWAY, after replacing the intake / exhaust gasket on the 260 motor (L28/N42 combo, triple mikunis, cam, hemisphereical pistons, bored, polished / ported head, header bla,bla,bla...) I get a slight, quick "pop" of a backfire at around 2k on the tach... Lean miss? I'v checked all the nutz and they are tight. Done the spray test vacumn leak thing and found nuthin'.... The good news is that I HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO ADJUST THE MIKUNIS. sorry, didn't mean to yell :stupid: Suggestions??????? Thanks all! Hope your Friday the 13th was well.... Bri

yep laffeaux, $15,000 at Beaverton Nissan and $5,000 at Royal Moore Nissan in Hillsboro... They can both kiss my :tapemouth (Not that I could afford it even with NO mark up )

I can't believe the dealers are tacking on $15,000 ADP. It's robbery. Plain and simple. So much for sticking around 30k. I loved the commercials, I still prefer the 240 over 'em all...

OH MY GOD!!!! Just kidding Zvo... The diaphram in my stock guage was bad and it behaved similar, I switched over to a mechanical guage and it reads steady...About 60 at a run...I can attach pics of the placement inside the cockpit if u like, lemme know....

I second it!!! And I'm going to buy stock in Rustoleum.....:classic: And thanks for the acvice SMG

I fought that :tapemouthing part for the better part of three days. Finally I just replaced the whole assembly with another. And yes, the old one is still alongside the house. It has been the only thing to beat me yet on a Z. Except for figuring out my double read on my tach issue...

what grain did you use to wet sand, 1200? Now you have me curious... As much as I don't think of this as my final way of doing this, it will protect it better for now, primer for a long time is not a good idea... you never said how many cans... And how many coats before you wetsanded???

how many cans is that????????????

I agree, mine is the same way.... I need to do something tho, primer is not waterproof and that concerns me... I may have to look into rustoleum Yellow.... What the heck, it's close enough to Ferrari yellow anyway.:laugh:

Once I noticed on a friends Z the three nuts on the top of the strut tower (in the rear) had worked a bit loose. After tighteneing he noticed a difference. Now if he was experiencing the same thing as you is another guess. He just never noticed it due to the fact they are covered by the post cap... Good luck and let us know, the supense of your suspension is killing me :nervous:

I prefer a Wagner Power Roller. Just kidding.... I need paint also, Spudz - I like your current color, it matches mine...

It appears that they are square port, but don't quote me on that, I will recheck. And no, no smog port sir. Thanks for taking a look at them...

That's what I thought....I think that they were put on around 5 years ago...thanks for the loookie tho... This is that L28 / N42 combo that is in the '74 260... I think it's going to the stand for some freshening..... B

Can anyone tell me what brand of headers this may be...??

This is shot of the passenger side of the vehicle, under the battery. It's the portion of the inner fender that is the corner portion. Need advice on this issue.... St.stevens here ya go....run w/ it... Thanks guys!

I plan on getting you those shots later today... And yes, please measure that sunroof, if it's bigger than the one I currently have I would be interested, providing the seals are somewhat decent...That's the only concern that I have is putting in a leaker... I'll talk to you later today...