g72s20

I have compiled a 2.9mB .PDF (9 pages) of a preview and road test from a coupla 1973 magazines, all in the English language :laugh: . Is there an appropriate spot to place it on the forum for those interested to grab it? Jim.

This was the preferred dent and hole filling method untill the advent of nikky/bog/ bondo/plastic filler which was much safer and user friendly, and eventually cheaper, but as time has proven introduced its own problems to the art of body restoration. As BambiCarl has said, this lead wiping is a repair method kept alive mainly by the steel bodied hotrod builders and the vintage & classic vehicle restorers. During the '70's I remember seeing an early fifties Holden (Australian GM) after it had been media blasted.The roof had many examples of lead wiping dent repair. It was very obvious to the eye due to the colour difference in the metals, yet to run your hand over it I simply could not detect any contour variation in the turret panel. The guy doing the work pointed out that some of the lead wiping was actually applied at the factory during the body assembly to fill imperfections in panel joints. Bottom line is it's a good panel finishing method, but a technique best left to those who do it for a living. Jim.

Yeah, that's what I meant?! ...oooohh are you thinking of the purple beast as well?

If i can make it to this show............ How about we set up a mock movie car chase scene? Your Japanese police car chasing my Yakuza :ninja: getaway car!?

Here's an interesting site for basic supercharging info Whrrrzzzzz!! The book was written during the sixties but the basics are as sound as ever. I heard a great story years ago of one of these vane type superchargers fitted to a Prince Gloria (S41 series).G7 2 litre 6 cylinder, hunting various street racers, and pulling away while hazing the rear tyres (POWR LOK diff). The age is evident on the cover, which depicts a 1967 HR series Holden speedo. (Same as 1966 HD) It's a good read! Cheers, Jim.

These from the Nissan engine manual for L20A to the L28 series shows one big one in the rear of the block, that's it above the crank .......behind the flywheel (that isn't there), and another in the rear of the head, identified in the pic by the number 10. No sizes given but the parts book has the number 35 beside the description of the one for the rear of the head. Regards, Jim.

Hey Derrick , If you could catch that car with your camera that'd be great to see. Give it a go! I know it's not quite an S30 but my KGC10 Skyline runs a twin Fujitsubo system from a beautiful set of stainless 6 into 2 extractors. Both the intermediate and main mufflers have "Fujitsubo Factory" embossed on them. Magic sound! Fuel in Sydney is around Aus$1.13 a litre for the good stuff(98ron)at the moment, Times 4.54 will give you Aus$5.13 an imperial gallon ..Or times 3.8 will give you Aus$4.29 a US gallon. ...Or as Aus$1 = US$0.77 , US$3.30 per US gallon Basic Unleaded (91ron) is around A$1.05 a litre. Jim.

Good solid groundwork goin' on there Joe. Won't 400rwhp need some serious boost?..Keep us up to date, it will be interesting. WHAAT? Geez Gary , I didn't know whether to laugh or cry when I read that! :laugh: ....but I can see what you mean. I quite liked the Yenko Stingers, but I'm sure Joe won't mind me throwing this in to clear it up for you. Jim.

Hi Victor, The J and JJ refer to the rim profile. If you cut the wheel horizontally through the centre you would see a profile of the section where the tyre bead sits on the rim. I think the JJ was an early safety rim designation, after the "J" style, and had a raised profile on the inside of the tyre bead to help hold it in place in the event of deflation. I can't find anything to confirm this yet but in the meantime here's a good site to browse Jim.

SR311 everywhere, and a speaker setup for 2,300,000 yen !!!!! To see what else they are selling, click on the user name (Tokiwa311) and his list will pop up.

On Yahoo JP Hmmm, some nice wrought iron legs, a glass top..make a nice coffee table come hallway conversation piece for "Casa del Thommo"..? :laugh: ...No? ...It was just a thought :cheeky: Jim.

Eric, from the respective sales brochures,(I only have them in PDF) the stock PGC10 weighed in at 1120 Kg. The stock KPGC10 weighed in at 1100Kg, and just for interests sake the fastback KPGC110 tipped the scales at 1145Kg. I'm betting Alan T has some interesting gems about the race weights of the racing 4 door GT-R and the racing 2 door GT-R. Jim.

Thanks Alan, I had my suspicions about the car...still sounds good though! Would you believe I was going to ask the question about the "Seven Samurai" in that post! Typing "Gan San" made the phrase pop into my head, and I thought " there's something I must ask of Mr Thomas, what is the story of the "Seven Samurai". I only know the term relates somehow to group of drivers associated with the development of the Skyline through the late sixties. Mate, I will happily post any sorta crap if it will entice your goodself to tell us a bit more of the Prince and Skyline history . Sad I know but hey....it's a corner of history that has me by the goolies Thanks mate, Jim.

You can buy it from eBay here! This DVD has the 4+ mins of the (Original?)No6 works car being punted around Fuji Speedway by Motoharu "Gan san" Kurosawa, a much reverred racedriver whom I suspect raced these in their heyday. I know he raced the Nissan R382 (Can-Am looking V12 powered beast, not unlike the Mclaren M8a) to success in 196(9?). Very little talking and real uninterrupted spine tingling sound of one of the better known S20 powered cars in its natural surroundings. I just wish I could find more sound and vision of the 1964-1974 era and class of Japanese motorsport. Jim.

........6 ?, you say he has 6 C10 GTR's?!?!? Now that's just plain greedy Nice post Mikey, I love the photos, thanks

I suffered those exact same symptoms in my '75 240K(almost identical electrically and mechanically to the 240Z).No pattern to it, and could find no fault. It had me stuffed for quite a while 'till I discovered quite by accident what seemed to be the cause......the ignition lock! the turning action of the key from OFF to ON to START, once fired up then springs back to ON. This action was a little sticky, and I think it was just the weight of a few extra keys on the keyring with the ignition key was enough to let it swing towards the OFF position while driving. It is only a tiny movement of the key in the ignition finding a dead spot (no ignition +12V). I wasn't convinced at first but gave the ignition lock a few shots of locksmiths graphite powder (straight in where the key goes) to free up the action and have not had the fault since. Hope it works for you too Jonathan. Cheers, Jim.

Due to circumstances I had to fit the thermo regardless. During the meanwhile I have modified the clutchfan setup to fit with out risk of fouling, so if the thermo doesn't work out I can re fit the clutchfan without any dramas. I've travelled about 200Kms over the last few days since fitting the thermo fan, it's coping with no complications so far. Long freeway runs at 4k +, 30mins of stop start 1st gear only traffic , air temp ~ 28C, with the fan automatically cycling on and off as required, and everything else you get driving across Sydney. Indicated temp gets to 80C(which is dead centre of the temp gauge. and varies about a needle width either side, much the same as with the clutchfan. We'll see how it goes over the long weekend, but I will be carrying the old fan and a 10 mm ring -open ender....just in case! Next mod is a Smiths 270deg display capillary line temp gauge. The original fitted unit only has a 90deg arc of display, variable electrical resistance. I'm off to change oil and fit new fuel filter. Have a safe Easter break, and remember ....double demerits for the duration in NSW. Cheers, Jim.

Look here Kent , I'm sure the cars are still there. He's a little hard to get hold of on site, by appointment only! I'm not sure if the cars are manuals though. Jim.

I rang Customs about this last year, they laughed and said the "gift" thing is the biggest myth about bringing anything into Australia via post. If you get serious about bringing something in, check with customs first as to what you could be up for. There are many variations of the rule. Frinstance, bought something OS via ebay? if it's over ~$500 (IIRC?!) they will ask for the eBay item number to check what you paid!! A camera from Hong Kong at $600. Dealer marked it as "gift" and understated the price on the documents. Customs was aware of this character doing this quite a lot and anything brought in from him was red flagged. Even so, we only had to pay another $65 dollars in the end. Forewarned is forearmed. Jim.

That's the one!! Paint job sounded like it wasn't done with rattlecans though No wonder I couldn't remember the name....it didn't have one :stupid: I wasn't aware of the impending movie. Did you see the BBC series?

Hey turbo240!, Thanks for the info on the big rim...not so big tyre thing in Japan. I had assumed it was just a fashion craze of sorts from the Japanese car culture of the '80's! . Interesting it actually has a purpose. Jim. P.S. what was the name of the black ship Zaphod stole???

All to do with the Australian Design Rules again Alfa. All new vehicles had to have a clear or white light for parkers at the front, or rather you couldn't have a "traveling light" other than clear or white light displayed on the front of a vehicle.Amber was legal for indicators only. I had to put a 1970 Torana LC XU-1 over the pits. It was originally fitted with clear front parkers/indicators, but I had fitted amber lenses from the 72 model L J XU-1. The '72 models had a parking light incorperated into the headlight, the 1970 LC did not, so my amber indicator/parkers didn't pass rego ....until i either fitted the original clear lenses or the later model headlights with the little parking lights in 'em. As the 240Z was around the same era I suspect the different colour lense issue has something to do with the ADR introduced around the same time. Jim.

Hi Pete, Thanks for thinking about this. The engine mounts are good, the problem is the large diameter fan and coupling are from another vehicle and when placed on the L28 in the KGC10 the clearance at the bottom edge of the radiator between there and the fan is less than 5mm! The clearance for the same part of the fan when at it's highest point of rotation is around 30mm. The shaft for the fan-clutch is the culprit here. It sticks the whole assembly too close to the radiator. I compared it to the same unit on my 240K and it's about 30mm longer. If the thermo fan doesn't work out, I could try swapping them I s'pose. I think there is a bit more clearance in the 240K bay. Hi Thomas, ...or is it really Magpie (MAG. P.I.) Thanks for the link Tommo. Comprehensive and clear! I like that. Oddly enough the fan I've been given looks identical in size and blade shape to the Taurus one in the story. Excellent info, Thanks guys Jim.

I decided to get the coolant flushed and replaced by a radiator specialist yesterday.There have been no overheating issues, the coolant appears clear and green, I just had no idea how old it was.....well i tried anyway! He took one look and said he wouldn't touch it! He went on to point out that the current fan-clutch and fan setup was too close to the radiator and, as was evident by damage to the blade tips, under certain conditions was actually clipping the bottom frame of the radiator. It appears under hard and harsh braking, the engine, being on rubber mounts, is moving forward just a little, ....throw in a bump at the same time and it travels down a little at the same time. This all adds up to enough movement to cause the contact. As the blade damage came with the car, and I originally couldn't see how the current setup could cause it, I assumed it had been done by something that had already been removed :stupid: .......Anyway, I've decided the easy way out is to remove the current setup and fit a thermatic fan. With a little luck I won't have to buy one ..I've got an unused thermo switch left over from the Monaro, and a mate has a spare 14.5" flat motor fan in his workshop! The radiator is just over 15" wide. So, if anyone has any suggestions with regard to the Nissan motor and thermo fans, please, jump in and tell me what ya reckon is good, bad or just worth a mention. Thankfully I am auto electric friendly so correct wiring practices aren't a problem. Hmmm...better check alternator can cope! Jim.