Victor Laury

The Original one was Flame Maple! Much better than any stone IMO.

That was a beautiful story! The race Nobody finished! It's a testiment to the qualities of our Datsuns and the abilities of the Teams that the Datsuns were the last cars to die! Should not they have awarded first place to the car the died last?

While cleaning up my engine, I replaced the thermo housing with one from my former 72, that I had polished. After ward, My gauge read 15 degrees higher. Since the only thing I changed was the houseing and sensor, and kept the same thermostat, I suspected the sensor output was different. So, I polished up the original and swapped them out again and the gauge reads normally again.

Weber DGV's were a common upgrade to replace the problematic 1973 U.S. market smog SU's, refered to here as "Hatichi's" , "Flat-tops" or "Tuna-cans". If the Weber conversion was made, you'd see the two, retangular chrome air cleaners, I believe you'r describing. It's a "fair" upgrade, supassed only by installing earlier 1972 SU's, known as "Round-tops". Rust and the "moon-roof" are the scariest part of your description. $400.00 would be equal to it's part-out value. But, we hate to hear of another one just scrapped out.

Marvel Mystery Oil is "Top end lubricant" fuel additive, mainly for diesel engines. It's been 25 years since I've read the label but I don't remember anything about putting in your crankcase.

On my daily driver I run the Falken Ziex ZE-502 195/60/14's At first glance, I was dissapointed. When I went to my local tire store, I asked "Can you get me these Falken sports car tires?" "The really sticky ones?". "Sure thing!" "and they're on sale for $45.00 apeice" my tire guy replied. When he got them, I saw the treadwear rating of 420 and said "these are grandma tires, they are not what I wanted!" Well, I bought them anyway, and they turned out to be a pretty good tire. I've pushed them as far as you'd ever want to push a street tire and they've responded above what you'd expect for that specification. It only takes me 15 minute tops to swap my street wheels for my set with the Kuhmo Victoracers 195/55/14's.

When I stripped mine to bare, My neighbor and I picked the shell up and carried it to my driveway. It was not light, nor was it a comfortable load for 2 large men, but that's all I had. Although It did have a lot more metal than Stephen's! Wow! seeing your car is making me feel guilty for sending that 72 shell to the scrapers. The poor car didn't even get a shot at the junk yard, it went straight to the metal recycler. Of course every nut, bolt, line and fitting are in my spare parts hoard, so maybe she lives on in spirt.

I have a excell spreadsheet, called TransCalc with your aussie/euro/jdm market 5 speed ratios as "std. Roadster trans" Plug your tire size and rear ratio in and it charts speed/RPM in each ratio. If Mike will instruct me, I'll Upload it to our Downloads section. I don't want to email to each person that asks for it, last time, it was too much work to keep up with the requests.

Alan's "Our Logistics will move you" Is a smoother catch phrase.

This has been an on-going problem with the MSA covers on my car. The tape lifts. I have bought more 3M Extra strength double sided tape and "Built up" a base under the brackets to bring them a little higher and reduce the stain on them. Does it work? Well the tape still lifts, It just takes longer. It would seem that the only true answer is to drill and pop rivet the brackets in place. But I'm so hesitant to do that, I'll monkey the tape some more.

You did pretty good for someone who "dont know alot about all the names" :classic:

Runs on start and dies on run. No question. That's the ballast resistor circut. On a points style dizzy, The ballast resistor cuts the voltage down to 6 volts to preserve the points. 12 volts, all the time, burns them up quick. So, cars of our vintage installed 2 curcits. A full 12 volts as you start the car, to ease cold starting. Release the key and you're on the second curcit, through the ballast at 6 volts. When we install the EI dizzy, we bridge the ballast, so it's 12 start and 12 run. This will over heat the stock coil so that needs to go as well. If you've done this, something is wrong at that point. Start at the connections you made and hopefully the error will be evident.

MSA 6 to one coated 2 1/2 Bent by Morse Mufflers of Burbank California (a true pipe artist) Turbo style muffer Chrome Straight tip, ending 2'' past the bumper. Simple, uncomlpicated, Quiet when compared to my roadster! (It only sets off a few car alarms, the Roadster sets them all off!)

Gav, I had the Bright:stupid: idea of hanging a PC microphone out the rear hatch and my lap top record a WAV file of me running up through the gears on a freeway on-ramp. You see, it's my most humble opinion, that MY 240Z has THE BEST exhaust note EVER. And, that it is my duty to share that sweet song with my Z brothers and sisters. Well, the first second of the recording sounds pretty good. Then the wind noise drownds everthing out. Back to the drawing board.

after an internet search, I found this - http://store.yahoo.com/eagleday/blco.html But I'd still like to know, what is this type of connector called? And what about the smaller style used on our instruments and MANY connections on the dash harness?

Help! I cannot find this terminal end anywhere. This is the 1/4'' spade style male terminal for insertion into the Molex (?) Moldex (?) connection blocks, used by Nissan for many years. I'll buy in bulk if a must, but a hundred would more than fill my needs.

No doubt! The tranny could fall out and the less rusty would still be a better deal! Plus that.....IT"S Yellow!! <my favorite

Besides my Z and Roadster, beside any other Datsun I plan to own, is a little rare droptop cruiser, not a sports car, 1967 Alfa GTC. I can't tell you why, it's a bit boxy. But I fell in love with this convertable on first sight. I think they only made 500. I had a chance at one in 1983, but I was too young and broke and my life was changing fast. The only one I've seen in the last few years was for sale for 17 grand.

You can throw all your "too old" rejects my way!

Bryan, Your car is leering at me! S-30's with bare fronts look like hungry sharks, smiling before biting the bathing beauty.

COUNTERCLOCKWISE - 153624

It can mess with the tach. It did not on mine. From the post on the module run new wires to the + and - post of the new coil, abandon the old distributor lead and tape it up with the tempeture sensor wire. On your old coil, one post has a double male spade connector. Salvage this and use it to join the wires the once connected to the ballast resistor. You now have a 12 volt coil, with constant 12 volt supply. You can open your spark gap a little to take advantage of your increased voltage. You just have to deal with the better start, better idle and stable spark to well over 7,000 rpm :classic:

When this happens, all is not lost. You'll notice that very close to the abso-Friccken-lutly fused fill plug, that you've rounded off, ruining your best 17mm, a knuckle or two and your throat from yelling obsenities at, is the reverse light switch. Ah Ha! Pull the switch (it never gets stuck) and fill. It's a tad bit lower than the filler plug, so you'll be 4 oz shy of full. Big deal.

As a matter of fact - in this tired photo, used today in another thread, you can see my NA ZX EI Dizzy and Coil.