Royce

If they do not have a paper trail to document it is 50K then I would suspect it is 150K or maybe even 250K. Ask for repair receipts and check the mileage logged over the years and you can estimate if the mileage is correct. Other wear and tear will make it difficult to tell because the car is so old. Example the grease on the clutch clevis pin may have been dried up long ago and if they put 20K with a lot of around the town driving in the past 12 years it could wear the hole oval, just like a well lubed clutch peddle of 150K. Or for the seats and interior, if the car was left out it could age much more rapidly. Buy the car bassed on its overall condition, 150k is not a lot of miles for a car near 30 years old. Don't buy it assuming it is 50K because if they cannot prove it you will never be able to if you try to resell it. Hope it helps! Royce

I would go with 205/60 or 215/60. Either should fit on the wheel fine. There is really very little difference between these sizes but more than likely the difference will be what is available with the tire you deside to use! I just bought some 15" rims but don't have tires yet. I still have my 14x6 with 205/60R14 on the front and 215/60R14 on the back. I would have to say that they are a little wide for the wheel, that's why I got 7" wheels this time. I didn't plan to go bigger on the back, it was just that last time I only replaced two and that is what was available. If your car is not lowered the wider 215/60s may help fill in the wheel gap. I personally wouldn't go with 225 unless you go to 50 series. Hope it helps!

If you just want steel wheels check out http://www.diamondracingwheels.com. I haven't done business with them but they appear to have new steel wheels at reasonable prices in all shapes and sizes. Have fun!

Okay, its not a sign but it is a car add...

Sorry, I don't have all the details but I'll try to give you what I remember. The information is out there and if I run across it again I will let you know. What I remember reading was that there are two different Toyota 4 piston calipers. One will work with a thin rotor, like the stock first generation Z has, and the other (marked with a W??) is for a vented rotor, which you can use on a first gen Z with a 300ZX rotor and either by cutting down the hat of the hub or using a spacer. If it requires a spacer than yes I expect the spacer could be made by any good machine shop and the detailed specifications are on the internet someplace. I don't know if these two calipers correspond the two ranges of Toyota 4x4's you talked about. I know I have probably raised more questions than I have answered. Hopefully, I can find the info or maybe someone else will bail me out on this one, as is often the case! Have fun!

Jaykuo, Changing the gears would be way more complicated then finding a 3.5 R180. For one you would have to pay "new parts" prices, as you found out they are not cheap. Then you would have to take the diff out and change the gears, which in my opinion is way more complicated then finding a used diff and swapping. Setting up a diff with new gears is a very complicated job that requires experience and specialized equipement (cha ching). I agree that using a 4.11 diff woud be geared way to low for a street driven 4-speed Z. For example, using 195x70 14 tires you would be at aprox. 3700RPM at 65MPH in 4th. With a 280Z 5-speed that would put you at 3200RPM which is similar to what 4th is probably with your current diff. The tire size will play a big role in all this too. Check out http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ to try different trans, diff, tire options and see the resulting engine RPM/MPH relationships. Have fun!

I have some like the 1152 "Flag" style, I am not sure if they are the same brand because I did not buy them at MSA. Twice the plastic base has broken. I lost the passenger one last time but still have the drivers side. I would love to use the stock mirror, but Nissan never made a passenger side one to match. I am currently thinking about the chrome bullet sytle because they are period. I have also been looking at late 60's or early 70's Corvette mirrors. But still not quite sure what I am going to do yet. I have a few that look like the 1153 "Racing" style that have come on various parts cars as well. But I am trying to get away from plastic mirrors. Good luck!

As long as you have a good functioning mechanical fuel pump you don't need the electic pump. Have fun!

Welcome to the club! Great looking car!!! I have recently been considering the Revolution wheels myself but had not seen a good picture, other than the one in MSA catalog, of them on a Z car. I think they look great but now I cannot make up my mind on 14x7 or 15x7. I am leaning toward 15x7 since tire choices are so difficult for 14", not that 15" is a lot better. Also, I have been considering the bullet mirrors and have been looking for pictures of them on a Z. Usually, I only find pictures of similar mirrors mounted on the fender, like fairladyZ. Someone else here at this site was looking for a source for those mirrors recently so hopefully they are still easy to find. Does that mirro mount to the body okay(the mount is flat and body is curved)? Can you see over/around the rear fender okay?? I don't expect great visibility, but would like to be able to see something other than the fender. Thanks!

Howdy, I don't remember the sequence but it is in the factory manuals, there is a point when you can adjust 6 valves then rotate the engine one more time to adjust the other six. In other words the cam lobe doesn't need to be directly opposite the rocker, although that is a good way to start if you aren't familiar with it. I agree with 2manyZs that hot adjustment is more accure, since you do most of your driving with a "hot" engine. Cold setting the valves is much easier, no hot hands, and will work fine if you aren't planning to push the engine hard and aren't conserned about max HP. Last thing, a valve that is set a little loose is better than a valve that is set a little tight! Have fun!

I believe '73 did have an electric fuel pump. If there is one it would be easy to spot via the right rear fender well, just look at the front of the gas tank where the fuel lines come out. It should be pretty obvious but if you cannot tel you jack up the back of the car for a better look. If it is original there will be a sheet metal shield to protect it bent at a 90 degree angle. Have fun!

I can't wait for the checks to start coming in!

Yes, it is not really worth it to ship them. The early 4-speeds '70 & '71 models years have the shifter further back. But the '72 - '83 4-speeds and 5-speeds, with the exception of the T-5, are the same length and use the same shifter location. In fact you can use the slave cylinder, shifter, drive shaft, etc. Have fun!

Hey 2manyZs, Your right it was not a SCCA club event. It was a vintage race event with a Southern California club, Vintage Auto Race Association(VARA). See www.vararacing.com for more. They have a '72 year car production cut off date and I believe they follow the old '72 SCCA GCRs. They do keep class points and award champions. I've got the same rollbar so I may get my car out there with them some time. Although then I would have to put my L24, 4-speed and R-180 back in because they do keep track of class rules! Have fun!

Well, I finally got over and took a look at my buddies '72 automatic parts car. I forgot to look at the trany mounts but I would be surprised if the mount point would be any different. You may just need to get the mount with the gearbox. Also, looks like the peddle box and clutch master cylinder will go right in. The plumbing to the clutch slave cylinder look pretty simple, although the metal tab comming off the frame where the hard line meets the soft line does not appear to be there on the automatic. Nothing a little welding wouldn't fix. Looks like you shouldn't have to much trouble. One more thing, you said you are getting the motor and trans from a '71 240Z. If it has the original '71 4-speed I would recommend you go with the later '72 or newer 4-speed or 5-speed. The design is different and I had my original 4-speed rebuilt 2 times and it broke again before I gave up and went to the later style box. It may have been that I just had a lemon but the fact that after '72 Nissan used the same basic design on the 4-speeds and 5-speeds up to '83 leads me to believe I was not the only one having problems. I got my 280Z 5-speed from a junk yard and it lasted 10 years, although 2nd gear is starting to get a little crunchy. If you are on a budget and cannot afford the 5-speed you should be able to find a late 4-speed quite resonably. You could probably find one local to you but if not I have a couple for sale for $50/ea so if you are anywhere near Sacramento, CA USA let me know. Have fun!

And one more, this was the only Z racing that weekend, again a very original looking car...

Here some more...

Yup, it was the same weekend as the MSA party down your way, May 4-5th. This car was not perfect, better than mine, but did look very original.

Duh, I see the "professional Z nut" now! Sorry, I didn't notice the new member titles before, looks like Mike has been having fun!

There is a seam from where Nissan welded the quarter panel and the roof that often causes a crack in the paint. I am not looking at a car but I believe it is at the thin point between the quarter window and the hatch. It is pretty common for an old paint job to crack here and I don't think it is anything to be conserned about. Always glad to hear of a series II that is still in good shape! Have fun!