Royce

I am not familiar with the T-5 trans but I do know that the 240 series I and series II consoles are the same. If the shifter on the T-5 is the same as the '72 and later style Z & ZX trans then you just have to trim the trans tunnel about 1 inch and do a little trim work on the console itself. I didn't have to take out much when I went to a Z 5-speed. You can hardly see the difference and I was able to keep my ash tray and fuse block in their original location. Hope it is helpful!

Zvoiture, I don't remember calling myself a professional Z car nut!? I am a Z nut and I do sell stuff from my parts cars but it by not even close to enough for me or my family to live on. It is not enough to fix all the little things on my 240. But it is a fun way to learn about the cars! Sorry to get off track folks! Have fun!

WishN4DaZ, The '73 240Z was the first car that had the flat top Hitachi carbs. Supposedly, it also had a redesigned head, although it was still stamped E88 like the earlier ones, to yield lower emissions. Although there are a few people who have been able to get these carbs to work well, most of these cars have been converted to early Hitachi SUs, Weber DGVs, or some other carb arrangement. Personally, I would stay with the SUs on a 240 or 260 because they are easy to learn, easy to tune, and are good for the budget minded.

I was thinking about this when I typed my last response. I haven't weight them but would think the 280Z block(N42) & 280ZX block(F54) would be pretty close to the same weight. The F54 may be a bit heavier because it has extra webbing but it is also supposed to be a cleaner cast overall. Okay, so there is my theory, anyone have the actual numbers? Have fun!

I would suggest getting a feel for a car before you go out and modify stuff. With a stock 240 you are going to get beat up on by other cars. But it is a good place to start, if you find one that has already been converted to a L26 or L28 all the better. If you have a choice go for a '72 240, they have (in my opinion) a better transmission than the earlier cars and can be changed to a 5-speed without much trouble. Plus they don't have the smog setup and problems of the later cars. If you start with a car that is in relatively decent shape, no major rust, and runs okay you are on your way. Most the swaps are pretty easy once you get familiar with the car but it all depends on your car experience. A Z is a relatively easy car to learn on, I did! I warn you, Z cars can be addicting! Once you find some prospective cars, give us the scoop. Have fun!

I'll be the base line for the study. When I bought my car in '88 with 75k original miles I took it to Baylands Raceway in Fremont, CA USA and ran it during a Wednesday night open track. I did three passes and recorded my best of 16.6 @ 88MPH. That is with a bone stock '71 series II 240Z on 195x70H14 tires. I think that is pretty close to what Road & Track recorded back in '71. I'll have to take it out to Sacramento Raceway or Sears Point one of these days and update my times. Have fun!

I weighed a stock L28 with head, distributor, water pump, FI manifold, exhaust manifold, flywheel, clutch and trans and it was 600lbs. All fluids had been drained. I would expect there is not a big difference(+/1 20lbs) in weight between a L24, L26, or L28. Hope it helps!

Congratulations!!! Good looking car! Did you buy it from an ebay auction, I thought I saw this car for sale recently there?

I saw a light brown, right hand drive first generation "FairladyZ" like the white one pictured at Buttonwillow Racepark at Buttonwillow, CA USA earlier this month. It was not a race car and not a clean as this one. It was parked near some guys racing Datsun 510s. It had the 432 emblems on the front fender panels, hatch vents, and flairs (just like the car you pictured). I didn't get a chance to talk to anyone about it but I did snap some pictures. I'll try to post them when I get home. Have fun!

I don't remember what year it was when they took away leaded gas here in the US, but I do remember that new cars required unleaded long before leaded went away. As long as your engine has hardened valve seats and guides you should be okay to run unleaded. Datsun/Nissan started building heads with hardened seats and guides around '75-'76 for the US market. Again, don't have specifics for AU market. Cheers!

Well, I checked my Chilton manual (don't have Haynes after all) and it lists capacities as 17.25 Gallons for '75 - '78 280Zs. Although it doesn't make any special reference to 2+2 cars for fuel tanks it does refer to 2+2 cars for other things where they are different. For example wheel alignment. My "best guess" is that the tanks are the same, but I still wouldn't bet my life savings on it. Sorry, I don't have anything more definitive!

I guess it depends on your budget and how much you like the smell of gas in your car. I would replace all the rubber ones that go to the tank. The exception would be the large filler neck which should be inspected but may be okay to reuse. If you have the money replace the rest. Down the road you could replace the rest without needing to drop the tank again. I already suggested if you don't use OEM hoses be sure to use fuel hose as a replacement. I also wanted to mention that if you don't use OEM hoses, with all the bends in them, be sure you don't pinch any of the lines at a corners, where the bends were. With standard fuel line it is easy to pinch one and then the tank will not vent properly. If that happens you may find you cannot get the tank to hold more than 5 gallons or you may create a situation where the fuel pump cannot draw gas out of the tank. Have fun!

Nigel, Not quite sure what your question is. In the US, I believe the first Z that came with hardened value seats and guides was the '75 280Z with the N42 head. I know many people have used '75 and newer heads or complete motors in older Z cars with good success. Are you concerned about running an unleaded motor on leaded gas, doesn't AU still have leaded fuels!? I think the only damage in running leaded gas in an unleaded motor is that if it has a catalytic converter it may cause the converter to wear out quickly. But I don't think cars in your area would be likely to run a catalytic converter. The main reason I had to have my motor rebuilt back in '89 was because of the valve seat wear and damage done to the head and pistons that resulted from it. Most likely this was due to time and a heavy right foot but also may be the result of the previous owner and myself not regularly using a lead substitue. I had the builder put in hardened valve seats and guides and have been running unleaded ever since. If you swap engines or fix your existing engine, with the age of these cars, either way is going to take some work and cost some money. Working with the engine you have may be less expensive than starting with an engine of unkown condition. I would select the head/engine you want to run and then go from there. Whether that be a L24, L26, L28, or L28T is up to you. Hope it helps!

What is the build date of your '72 240Z with flat top carbs? I am just curious if it is a '73 model car registered as a '72. Shouldn't be too much trouble to swich, beandip is correct you will want the air cleaner that goes with the early carbs. Have fun!

I agree that it would be best just to find a turbo motor. However if one is not available then to make a NA motor into a turbo you would need lower compression pistons, rings for those pistons, turbo, turbo plumming, and turbo electronics. I know there are a few goodies that are different in the fuel injection, like the AFM, etc. Sorry to be so general but hope it gives you some ideas. Have fun!

I agree! There will not be an easier time to change the hoses on the tank than now. You have to drop the tank to change them so why do it twice!? Besides there is a good chance they are 10-30 years old and will probably be damaged when you disconnect them to remove the tank. If they are original type hoses it is difficult to inspect them since they have a cloth braiding on them. If you don't use factory replacements be sure to use a hose suitable for fuel, NOT heater hose. Have fun!

Neither of the sources provided any other details. I would be happy to check my Haynes Z manual tonight, it might have that type of info. The only reason I can think of for why the early and later 280Zs would have different tanks is if they are reshaped because of the difference in the bumpers. I assumed that the bumper mounts where the same but don't know why the gas tanks would be different.

I believe they are made by Talbot, as well as others, and they should be available in the states. I know I have seem them someplace else but I cannot remember where. If nothing else try JC Whitney. I have them on another car and have considered them for my Z. Anyone have pictures of them on a Z?

All the Z intakes have round ports. Only the exhaust can have either round or square ports. I don't remember what the story is on the webbed intake manifolds. I know both the 280s I have had ('75 & '76) were with the non-webbed style. I would think the webbed manifold would hold more heat, would make working around it more difficult(harder to see through), would be a little heavier and I don't care for the look much. Just my thoughts. Have fun!

I checked the MSA catalog and the original Datsun Factory Microfiche and see only two part numbers for 280Z fuel tanks. One for '75-'76 & one for '77-'78. There are no separate part number listed for 2+2 cars. I believe that Datsun kept the differences to a minimum and although I have never seen a 2+2 tank, I would not be surprised to find the same tanks in it and the coupes. It does list different parts however for some of the other related fuel parts, ex. the 2+2 filler necks.

I think we will need a picture of the part. If I remember correctly there are two 240Z bumpers and each requires a different over rider because the bumper guards are spaced differently. The '73 240 bumper has the bumper guards that are closer together. The '70-'72 240Z has guards that are further appart, up agains the light buckets. But what you describe sounds backwards, the one you need should be the shorter one and the '71 bumper over rider should be the longer one. Can you measure the length of the one you bought? Pictures would be great too! Have fun!

Although, I perfer SUs on the Z I do have another non-Zcar with Webers. While not in SoCal, Pierce Manifolds are Weber experts. They can answer questions, rebuild your carbs and have all the parts. They have a lot of useful information on their website as well as an online catalog. I don't have any afiliation with them, just a satisfied customer. Pierce Manifolds Inc, 321 Kishimura Drive, Gilroy, CA 95020 USA Tech inquiries: 1(408)842 6667 Order/tech inquiries (FAX): 1(408)842 6673 Email: webercarbs@piercemanifolds.com http://www.piercemanifolds.com Payment: VISA/MasterCard/UPS COD Money Order Shipping: Worldwide I'll check the web links, if they are not there I will add them. Have fun!

Yes, you have to start with the mix nuts turned all the way up to get a starting point. Here are a couple more things to consider. The fast idle adjusting screw, up by valve cover where the linkage takes a right angle and turns down to the carbs, may be turned in. You should set the engine idle with the fast idle screw turned all the way out, so it doesn't impact the idle at all. Then you can use the mix nuts to set the idle. Next, you to check that the needles are installed properly. Take the domes off the carbs and pull out the pistons, not difficult but be careful so you don't spill the oil or bend the fuel needle. Then you can make sure that the needles are installed correctly, with the needle shoulder at the same depth as the flat base of the suction piston. If that doesn't work than you probably need to start at the beginning and check the valves, timing, plugs, and reset the carb balance. Hope it helps.

There are two different types of limit slip diffs. (LSD) available to the car market, not just for Z cars. There is a gear LSD, like Quaiffe sells, and a clutch pack LSD, which is the type that Nissan used. Basically the difference is that the clutch type act as an open diff until a certain amount of torque is applied, then it begins to engage the limited slip. The clutch type also require special LSD gear oil. If I were starting from scratch I would pick the gear type because I think they are more reliable and more durable. But then I have actually never used a clutch type either! As far as I can remember there are two Nissan LSD units available standard from Nissan, if you can find them, that can be easily fitted to an early Z car. The 3.7:1 R-230, looks like a R-200 but has a finned rear cover, which was offered in some Z31 (84-89) 300ZX Turbos or the 3.54 R-180 LSD available in some 240SXs. The 4x4 trucks do have 4.11 R180s in the front but I don't believe they were LSD. You can get a Quiaffe LSD for a R180 or R200 but it will cost you $750 just for the unit. Then you have to have it installed with your ring gear into your diff. housing. If you find a cheap way to do it, other than welding the diff, let us know. I would love to have a LSD in my Z. It's been a while since I researched this stuff for my Z so let me know if I missed something. Corrections, comments, and questions are welcome! Have fun!

I have about 6 drive shafts from various years ('71,'73,'74.5,'75,'75,'76) laying around and almost that many diffs. From what I can tell all the first generation R180 & R200 diff. input flanges are the same with the exception of the '75 280 (first production run with R200). For some reason the flanges on these diffs had larger bolts but smaller flange centers. The next year it seemed to go back to the same setup as was used on the R180s. Also, I have been told not to change flanges but I did it on mine 12 years ago without any problems. You should be able to use your original drive shaft, just a 2manyZs wrote the lengths are a little different, about an inch, but it will work. Sorry, no nothing specific for Austraillian model Zs but hopefully it will be helpful. Have fun!