ryoojin83

Im going to have to agree with ben on that one! BEAUTIFUL! love the grain pattern! AMAZING work!

Hey, to answer a previous question about L series engines with cross flow head... L series is not a cross flow head (obviously, no offense), BUT you CAN get one, (maybe everyone knows this...but i just found out) it was made by a company in Japan called O.S. Giken and its a DOHC cross flow but it will run you about $12,000 not really worth it in my opnion, but iy does look nice. and now I have a question, its been eating at me for a while. how does the weight of the RB Series (looking for RB26/25 mainly) compare to that of the L Series (L24)? Everyone talks about the great weight distrobution on the Z and I would have to agree that its pretty neutral. (this being the main reason that Id never swap a V8 into a Z, that and they are far less reliable, im not a fan of american cars, :sick:).

Hrm, Im Confused, '77 with 260z body style? I'm still a Z Noob but, I thought the only difference in the bodys was the bumbers between the 260z and 280z, (i.e. early and late 260, and didn't the 77 and 78 get a slightly modded bumber?) aside from that what would you be referring to? I know you said its complicated, (sorry) but im intrigued now! not to waste your time, but could you explain it? was it just more options available in japan?

take a picture of the japanese, i can read hiragana, katakana, and a little kanji, maybe i can help...

not a bad looking car but its got one hell of an ugly arse... no offense to the owner, just not my style, like the original lights alot better.

for starters, I would Read the Sticky notes in this forum... this isn't an article so this post will probably be deleted...(from this forum) next time I would put it in the help me section or the fuel injection section. but ill try and help anyway. I'm really not sure what your problem is, but I've heard of people having similar problems when running SUs, they just don't have enough fuel flow, pressure is fine at low engine speeds but at higher speeds the fuel pump just can't supply the needed volume of gas. your hard lines could be clogged.... maybe put a fule line cleaner in? just a guess... I'm sure there are more qualified people to answer this here, but no one has yet so I thought i'd give it a try...

That is absolutly beautiful! After seeing that I'm not sure what id rather have...RB26DETT or VH45 (TT), I'll be stuck dreaming of both I guess! Would be nice to get specs and diagrams of the mounts and so forth... maybe more info on that VH41.

I was looking into this a while back as well and i believe anything pre-1974 is smog exempt, so any 240z would work (someone else will verify this I hope). Seeing as ive never done any swap myself I better not go and assume answers to the rest of your questions! :stupid:

Ah the joys of clutchless shifting! I'm still young and admittedly very stupid, but im going to college for that! :stupid: I always teach clutchless shifting to my "pupils" after they get used to driving with the clutch, gives them a sense of accomplishment when they can upshift and downshift without the clutch! :stupid:

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHA, Great Advice! 401-Keg Plan......comedy

Actually there is a z sound in japanese, but its always combined with a vowel, since the only consinant in japanese is an n(or m, depending on dialect or word)

Wondering if anyone had a diagram of the doors on the 240z with dimentions? or would this be on the Microfiche cd if i purchased it? Im looking to shave the door handles and was trying to figure out a way to make the door just pop out a little and have a handle and a electronic numberpad to unlock and open the door. need dimentions to see what I would be able to stuff in there to make it work. thanks for the help.

thanks for the input. I had forgotten the affects were so great. only evacuating i did was out of a thick glass case, never really occured to me that it would be as strong as I now rememeber... hehe, oh well, just an idea.

Ok, Please give me input ... remember this is just an Idea... :beard: the areas that will rust the most(?) are the inside of the box sections in the car. (ok, not true, but this is the thought that got me thinking)... Why don't you cut it open, weld in a few supports and weld it all shut except a small hole where you weld in a threaded nut(?) or something....then paint the inside with a small spray tool (not thought through very well, but im trying!) then put a valve in the threaded area (small valve, for cosmetics) and evacuate the area of air (the reason for the supports is becuase of outside airpressure) to hopefully prevent oxidation....at least if it does rust through you'll know when you hear a loud WHOOOSHing sound :-) ANYWAY! wondering if anyone has ever heard of this or something similar being done? Maybe this sounds retarded too....i don't have much knowledge of the Z body soo... it could be random, but i just remember hearing things from threads here and there talking about the boxed sections...(and from random websites) maybe its more work than its worth... sorry about the random input....don't want to spam bad ideas

Ok, I'm Working on my master plan. So when they dip your car I hear that it removes everything including the areas you can't get to again.... I also heard that after its dipped they apply zinc phosphate to stop rust before you paint... Guess I was wondering how long you can leave it Unpainted with the zinc phosphate applied? (assuming that its covering metal that you can't get in to paint) OR Is there a method similar to Iodizing (putting color between the molecules of metal...Probably used the wrong word) ANYWAY, is there a method like dipping(or iodizing) that keeps the rust from forming (once again because after dipping I'm told there are areas you can't get to again)... THANKS FOR THE TIME! (if you know of prices that would be cool too)

Good Luck. Hope everything goes well! I know how hard that can be for families. I'll keep you in my prayers.

I live in the Iowa City Area... Yeah, time is going to be hard to find but im hopeing I figure something out... Anyone want to trade a 240z for a '95 Dodge Neon?!?! Pleeeaaasssseeeee. does that Z club have a web site?

Hey All, Just wondering if anyone new a site (or book) that details the rebuild of the 240z body (and engine i guess)? I sold my 280z a few years ago (idiot, i know) and Ive got the itch for the Z again. I'm young and dumb so I'm trying to get an idea of the work involved (a lot I know, I've been reading around) and the design of the Unit-body (uni-body? whatever), so I know better what to look for. Taking a basic body working class this summer too, hopefully that helps a bit too. Thanks for the help. or does anyone have Ideas on powder coating/under coat?