SteveJ

Jamie, There is a WTB section in the classifieds. However, I think you may compromise fresh air flow through your car if you do changes hatch styles. I hope others can confirm.

If you replaced all of the exterior lights for your turn signals with LEDs, your lights will STOP blinking with the old thermal flasher units. This is because the current flow through the unit drops to a point that the resistive element will not heat up enough to break the circuit. I replaced BOTH the turn signal and hazard flashers with Bussmann 232 electronic flasher units. I found them on eBay. I cannot say for sure that electronic flasher units would speed up the blink rate for incandescent bulbs, but I would expect that they would.

Yes, that is the fuse cover for the glass tube fuses. The fuse box is in the passenger side footwell. Good. I wanted to make sure I wasn't giving you bad information. Wire colors and location mean everything. Now we can get somewhere. G/W is 12VDC+ for the running lights. B is the ground wire. G/Y is not in the wiring diagram. Are you sure it's not B/Y? B/Y is the 12VDC+ for the brake lights. The wiring harness from a 240Z isn't a drop-in replacement for the 260Z unfortunately, but hold that thought. As for the bulbs, take one of the brake lights bulbs out of the socket. (It's the top outboard bulb in the taillamp assembly.) Look at the bottom of the bulb. A dual filament bulb will have two bumps on the bottom. You can look here for an example of the difference between a single filament bulb and a dual filament bulb. Now if I was to hazard a guess about what happened, I would think that a previous owner had a problem with the taillights or the running light circuit overall. The running light circuit is one of the biggest strains on the electrical system in that there is a weak link in connector for the wiring on the combo switch. In the 240Z it is usually manifested by the fusebox melting down for that circuit. In my 260Z, the connector melted down. As a short-term fix, I replaced the connector. For the long-term, I replaced the exterior bulbs with LED bulbs. Look for the Sold on LEDs thread for more information. As for what you should do, can you post pictures of the wiring? That could give us an idea of what to suggest for repairs. By the way, where in GA are you? If you're close enough to me, I could help with repairs.

Robin, How old is the fuel filter? Could it be clogged? How old is the gasoline? Could you have rust in the tank? How about the fuel pump? If the fuel pressure drops under load, the response will be sluggish. Also, check the fuel tank to see if there is an electric fuel pump on it. There could be a clogged filter there. Pertronix does not list a 260Z compatible product in its catalog (http://www.pertronix.com). If you REALLY want to change the ignition system, you could swap to a 1979-1981 ZX distributor. Look at my link for Blue's collection of tech tips to find how to do the swap. Note: it requires a 280ZX distributor mounting block to complete.

If they sell parts outside the US, it's correct.

Attached is a picture of the 260Z fuse block cover. That will lead you to the stock position of the fuse. On the other hand, your only other post mentioned having a 240Z. Is this a different car? Re-wiring a car is usually a warning to stay away from a car. However, now that you're in, let's see what trouble you have. Where did you see the cut wires? Are they hanging loose, or are they covered with tape? What are the colors of the wires & stripes that have been cut? You could try contacting Zbarn or Zcar Source for wiring harnesses. I'm sure others could provide names for companies that sell used Z parts, as well. Also, check to see if the right bulbs are installed. They should be dual filament, typically type 1157 bulbs. Single filament bulbs WILL cause issues. Look at my links for downloading a copy of the FSM.

I haven't ordered from them. Here is their feedback on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/seller/feedback.html?ie=UTF8&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&isCBA=&asin=&marketplaceSeller=&seller=A23IRBBBTW5KGU, but they don't have an active store on Amazon anymore.

I've tried using it. I don't think I did a good job of applying it. I have a circuitwriter pen. I'm going to try that on my 260Z where the grid was pulled off in removing the tint.

I agree with Andrew. Look for the cables. Sometimes they will come off the clips. If you need new ones, try Zcar Source. They aren't cheap, but I've been happy with the quality of used parts I've received. They also are prompt on shipping.

In post #3... I think that will put you in the ball park.

Have you tried the parts catalog?

According to the parts catalog, the sending unit changed around Sept 74.

Go to XenonS130 and download the FSM. The wiring diagram will have your answer.

Typically the fuel pump has two voltage sources. When you put the key in start, it kicks in a relay that closes the contact for the fuel pump to have voltage. When the key is in run, there is a relay uses an oil pressure switch to signal that the engine is running. I can't recall where the 280Z gets its signal from during the run. If you search on this site, I think you'll find a color wiring diagram that you can use to determine the proper way for the fuel pump to get powered. By the way, where in Georgia are you?

Here are the valve cover hex heads in chrome: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-280Z-510-L16-L28-Chrome-Valve-Cover-Bolts-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255fea4f04QQitemZ160522981124QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Please be aware that there are two flashers in your car. One is for the hazard lights, and the other is for the turn signals. I purchased the Bussmann 232 flashers for my cars.

Hey, I'm patient. Merry Christmas.

For the heavier items like transmissions, you might be able to ship via Greyhound. I've read many posts over at Zcar.com suggesting that.

I knew Dave was addressing it to Jerry, but I also know in my head that it was the missing link, considering I had replaced my own switch a few months ago. I studied that connector some since it looked unique to me, but it didn't come to mind when Jerry originally posted his problem.

I'm sure it was. I didn't even think of it the first time because I just connected it when I changed out my switch. I didn't even think twice about it. I believe Del at Vintage Connections even sells replacements for them.

Are you SURE you didn't install the distributor 180 degrees out?

There is also an ad over at Zcar.com. Considering how many of these cars are missing rear windows or the entire hatch, I'm thinking there is a good bit of rust waiting to be discovered.

I think I need to clarify. I think it might help to approach the slave cylinder from engine compartment instead of underneath. I was probably also handicapped by using too short of a piece of tubing from the oil can to the bleed screw.

Are all of the wires on the new switch connected to something now? Are there the same number of wires on your old switch?

Okay, I tried it, working from under the car. It didn't work well for me. I suggest that if you try it, go at it from the top. I'm still not sure it will work that well, either. Also, make sure you have a long enough tube from the oil can to the bleed screw.