SteveJ

I knew I could count on you, Bruce. Make a video of it.

Of course, I just want to see it so I can take it apart. Hey, Bruce, make your way over to his place and grab that part.

Let me know if you need a third hand. I may be able to squeeze some time in on the weekends to help. Plus, if I drive the Z, it gives you a reference if you have any questions on assembly.

You may be able to download a manual: http://manualocean.com/dive~sun-1500-engine-analyzer-manual.pdf

I believe Zed Head is correct. Look at part 18 in this link: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Electrical/Meters/tabid/1664/Default.aspx. Where exactly did your friend find this part?

Thanks for posting a picture. It's a BA7 bulb. Here's a source: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba7s-led-bulb-1-led/10/#/attributes/16.

My previous post was a little premature. I played with the timing some tonight and went to re-tune the carburetors after dropping the timing down. The rear carburetor was weak again. Following Mr. Warner & Mr. Pilgrim's suggestion, I attack the rear carburetor with starting fluid and heard the RPMs increase when I sprayed around the insulator between the manifold and carburetor. All four nuts were loose. I tightened the nuts and finished adjusting the carburetors. The rear behaved much better.

Do you have the old bulbs in hand? If so, I could probably tell you the type. Could they be 194s?

So, here's the update. I replaced the plug wires last night and ran the engine today. I found the rear carburetor wasn't pulling as much air, so I increased the air flow to match the front. I did a test that Philip showed me that he called the "equally $h!++y test" and found the rear carburetor was pulling its own.

Sure, mention that AFTER I tell my wife that we need to cut back on spending.

Yeah, I wouldn't turn that down. How difficult was it to get it delivered to your house?

I have a set of the taller Race Ramps with the detachable ramps. They are very nice to use and don't slip easily with the Z even though I have a painted garage floor. However, if you need to lift your car to do the brakes, I think a scissor lift would be much better.

If you're on Facebook, look up the Georgia Z Club and like the page. I can get your pictures posted there. Also join Georgia Datsun Owners. The user here that goes by the name of Metalmonkey47 (http://www.classiczcars.com/user/29114-metalmonkey47/) is an admin for that page and can get your membership approved. That can give your car some good exposure.

I would expect different compositions of long-chain hydrocarbons & aromatics between regular and premium, so I wouldn't be surprised by differing smells.

Now, have you been able to find the inline fuse? It may be that you need a female connector with the inline fuse to connect these two wires. I haven't ever traced out the actual wires myself, though. It doesn't show that connector in the 71 supplement, either. You can probably get the correct female connector from Vintage Connections.

I don't have a spare, but as I offered before, you are free to come over and take measurements. Someone somewhere has a fastener that would work.

Yeah, Philip was showing me that on Saturday.

The black/white wire should have 12 VDC when the ignition is in the RUN/ON position. If it is not connected to the green wire in any way, you won't get power to the fuel pump. Can you post a picture?

I would be surprised if either one, especially the STE, claimed factory calibration. I'm happy getting consistent readings from the STE. So, are you going to take the EMPI to a calibration lab?

Did you do before & after measurements, Cliff? I'd be curious about how far out of adjustment yours got to be.

I'll let people like Alan & Carl speak up about why the fuel pump wiring is present without a fuel pump. What are the colors on the connector by the radio?

I should add that you might consider adding an inertia switch to the circuit for safety. You can find them on ebay.

In two wiring diagrams I looked at (the one in the 1971 supplement PDF and the 1972 BE section), the wire to the fuel pump is a green wire. It should go to a 20 A inline fuse. The upstream side of the fuse comes off of the ignition switch when it is in the ON position. I don't know why you don't think you have access to the PDFs I am looking at. They are available at XenonS30 (link below).

I don't recall spraying the starting fluid around the rear carburetor. I did the spraying around the front carb before Philip did the valve adjustment. I'll take some contact cleaner to the timing light, too.

Sounds like a good idea. I'll try that on Wednesday.