26th-Z

If I'm not mistaken, this car was for sale a month or two ago. Remember that discussion? It started at $30 something, was reduced during the auction, and didn't meet the reserve. We had a long conversation about the "factory" restoration program and how it wasn't really the factory that restored the cars, the odometers being reset to 0 miles, this car having 51,000 miles on it with the comments about who would put that many miles one of these examples. Yep! here it is. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10532&highlight=factory+restoration+program Ha! same car!

Sand blasting removes metal just as it does rust, paint, bondo and any other material. Different media is used for different applications. Walnut shell (soft media) is used for softer materials such as plastics and aluminum while glass bead is used for harder materials. "Play sand" is outright dangerous to breath. Sand blasting will leave sand everywhere and is difficult to clean out of a car body. It will warp metal as well as pit the surface. I have read that sand blasting will actually force ferrous ions further into the metal. I think sand blasting is appropriate for certain applications as long as it is done within a controlled environment like a sand blasting cabinet. I have seen it used successfully in spot areas, but never on a complete car.

Mike, I wonder if I should start a new thread and I'll leave that up to your discreation, but to build on what Enrique has just contributed... There certainly are a lot of variations to the theme! Take a look at www.volocars.com. Click on the news and events tab and then select the Shelby Mustang announcement. The Volo Museum is displaying a 1967 Shelby Cobra GT 500 convertible and it is a prototype car - not a production car. As Ford ordered all of the prototype Shelbys destroyed, this is the only surviving prototype. The story appears in Old Cars Weekly News and says that the car was recovered by Ford in 1968 after being reported stolen, refitted with 1968 parts and sold as a used Shelby. Through intense research (four years), the car has been restored to it's "original state". Carroll has authenticated it and you can be certain that the documentation and actual restoration was done by professionals. So here is a $1 million used car involving the terms "rare", "all original", "as original", "like original", "restored original", and "original state". I would imagine the car has been completely disassembled and that very little of the 1967 rubber parts, vinyl parts, and paint remain. However, professional restoration to this degree would dictate authentic materials and manufacturing techniques. With a ton of research and documentation to back it up! Comments?

Good suggestion to blow out wax build-up around the emblems and down the inside of the rain rail with air! Any car this old could use a good blow. Try a long vacumn tip with bristles on the end for hard to reach areas in the engine bay. Vacumn and scrub out all along the fuel and brake lines on the frame rail. Get the sand and dust out! Preservative on the engine hoses and wires. Preservative on the wiring harness. If you loosen the wiring harness from the metal tabs, be sure to get the plastic ends wrapped around the harness again - no metal contact. The rubber grommets that hold the brake, clutch, and fuel tubes could use some preservative too.

I just may be able to help you out. Send me a PM w/ your e-mail and we'll discuss.

The "U Coat It" and the Rustolium are both 2 part, water based epoxies, probably equitable.

This is a great site of car care products http://www.carcareonline.com/ They have products for sale as well as technical articles on cleaning techniques and products. Armor-All contains silicon oils which is an inexpensive short term ingredient that will do more damage in the long run and should be avoided. I prefer the One Grand products.

The author of this thread had no intention of getting into a discussion about who said what or sold to whom or anything at all about an eBay deal gone foul. The author of this thread wanted to discuss fine points of originality and technical aspects of what is considered amongst the most educated of American Zcar clubs as legitimate restoration proceedure and preservation. THERE ARE PLENTY OF ALL ORIGINAL COLLECTOR CARS OUT THERE. Original paint. Original tires. Original spark plugs. Original batteries. Original everything. I know of a Z that still has the plastic protective interior wrapping that was supposed to be removed by the dealer prior to sale. The author of this thread was completely surprised to discover that far too many don't know what "all original" means much less how something is restored. The author of this thread is completely embarrassed by what has happend to this thread and wishes it would simply go away. Evidently, you guys don't wish to talk about specific finishes or preservative treatments or restoration techniques or anything that would resemble a intellectual conversation about collecting and maintaining fine automobiles. Evidently you simply don't know and wouldn't recognize, much less appreciate, an original car or what is involved to maintain or restore a car to an original state. The author of this thread was hoping some people who actually judge cars in shows would comment on aspects of "over restoration" or the value of a certain "patina" to older cars. For instance, does anyone know what the yellow paint on undercarriage bolts is for, their proper location, or why some are painted red? Does anyone care? If the author of this thread goes through all the trouble to duplicate the finish of certain components, does he then have his car viewed equally to someone who had powdercoated over POR? Can any one of you tell the difference? Thanks for allowing the author to get up and rant. PLEASE get off the eBay issue and let it settle. This site has members with some serious intelligent knowledge and experience to share. Perhaps this is a totally boring topic. So be it. Thank you. All my love. And happy President's day.

Gary, Nissan doesn't list 90301-E4101 any more. E8800 replaces it which I believe is the horizontal lined glass. The Nissan price I have is $247 for the E8800 making E4101 that much more valuable. I have seen used pieces go for much less on eBay, but keep in mind the piece I have is brand new.

I'm holding on to the defroster glass as a trade token. It's brand new NOS Nissan. A '72 piece of glass should be fairly common, bimini_blue.

You most definitely need a good camera to photograph models, but your pictures are pretty good, 2ManyZs. Controlling the flash lighting is quite difficult and spot lamps would seem better to light the car. Try using the telephoto zoom feature. The depth of field is way reduced, but you don't have to get in so close. I just bought this kit from Tamiya - 1/24th - Nissan R90V Group C, which should look like this some day.

Two laps in a cobra! Just great. Road America is such a great track. Lots of fond memories there!

I'll throw this out to the club while we are on the subject of hatch glass. The '70 - '71 models had vertical demister lines. From '72 on (I think - correct me please) the demister lines were horizontal and in all the hatch glass as a standard feature. My glass is clear and I understand pretty rare. I am looking for a clear piece for a very deserving car and I have a brand new vertical line Nissan piece to offer up.

Just a super site, Fred. Thanks Mike, that is just a great model to drool over. Wow! Try this link to a $15 Fairlady SP311 http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljpage.cgi?FUJ12110

I'm not crazy about the Yat Ming models. They just aren't very accurate. I want a Monte Carlo #5 car, preferably in 1/24, but haven't seen one recently. I'm also on the prowl for this 432 kit.

The plastic tanks tend to degrade over time and crack. There has been some discussion about fit for the different tanks, but I don't know much more. I don't see why any proper size fuel rated hose wouldn't work. The main vent hose from the fuel tank does a U-turn under the back, but I have seen people discuss a bent metal tube and clamps substitution for this. There are other vent pipes on the tank to seal if you eliminate the vapor tank. The stinky in your car could be a broken vent hose or the tank.

Hey 2ManyZs! Nice photos of your diecast cars! I have been interested in model kits, although the diecasts get to be enjoyed right away. Nice 432. I know people are looking for one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3175919101&category=2583 This is my current collection of plastic model kits.

Yes but remember the vapor tank is there for ecological reasons. We are not supposed to be breathing fuel vapors. The main vent from the fuel tank can be fit with a T connector near the fuel filler tube and then drain stright down to the fender well.

Bad rings are probably not going to push oil up into the combustion chamber. Your problem sounds more like valve stem seals and or valve guides.

Here is an original Japanese Bridgestone 175 SR14

This is the thumb latch I was talking about. I think locking fuel doors came in late '71 for the '72 model year. Check out kats' web site and his wonderful pictures of early Z stuff http://www.geocities.jp/datsunz903/

Hey zrush and Gav, I would really like to know when that picture was taken because there are some interesting points about the car. For instance, the tread on the tire indicates a radial. Some people say the Z came with 175 HR14 tires and I contend 175 SR14s. Kats has a picture of the 240Z emblems on the roof with a chromed Z and this one is white. I do know that 19 was built in 10/69, but have no idea what number this car is. It is an early one and all the other stuff I went on about early cars is factual. Great picture!

Spoofed ya! ROFL

We went through this with kats last September. One of the all time great threads...remember this? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=9318&highlight=ORIGINAL+TIRES The hubcaps discussed are the 1970 style, but the later ones are becoming just as valuable, eh?