26th-Z

Thanks for your suggestions, Enrique. If the car was sandblasted, 120 is a little harsh. And I would hand sand the car as I think the orbital is a little rough also. I am also assuming that there is no metal work involved and it is ready to prepare for paint? Sand it down with 220 - 400 grit using long strokes as though you were seriously wiping the car down. Sand it as though you were polishing it. Vacumn the dust out of the car with a brush. Wipe the car down with OSPHO as though it was a cleaner and then wipe it all off. Use cotton towels. After a sand blasting, what you are probably trying to do is get the metal polished smooth again. No more tools should be needed. The smoother you get the metal, the less work you will have to do when you prime the car. At this point, you have bare metal. All the OSPHO is going to do is protect it for 24 hours from developing flash rust. In your case, PyroSparks, I suggest you wipe the car down with OSPHO.

Here is my best kept secret to model cars. I have ordered from Japan many times - pay through Paypal - and it works. Shipping costs are not all that bad. Check out their prices. Work the search engine on the website and be amazed at what you find. http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljpage.cgi?EBR43627 and home page www.hlj.com Have fun.

Sand, OSPHO, primer

Speaking of Fairlady....What is a Cedric? Why would you name a car "Cedric"?

Phosphoric acids will eat metal, but a light solution like OSPHO is readily used for painted metal applications. The phosphoric acids turn ferrous ions into some inert, usually black looking, material. I have soaked rusted metal in OSPHO for long periods and it will eventually eat right down to the bare metal. Wipe off all the excess and let it dry. Technically, bare metal will start to rust the second it is exposed to the atmosphere. OSPHO treats and seals the metal from those moments. I have heard of "metal ready" and think it is the same stuff. Use a good, high, quality etching primer within 24 hours and you have done about the best you can do.

OSPHO is a very mild (15%) solution of phosphoric acid and is considered an "encapsulator" product. Paint applications can be made over it. It will etch the metal and seal the surface from what is called flash rusting - typical after sand blasting. Your body man is correct. It should take you about a day to sand and metal prep the car for spraying primer. Sand the car lightly, spray on the OSPHO and let it dry, then wipe the car down before you primer.

Old car guy statement: "If you smell gasoline, you have a leak." Gas fumes are dangerous and you really need to track it down. A vent hose leak will tend to smell when you fill the car up with gas. A fuel pressure leak will tend to smell when the car is running. You mentioned putting a new fuel pump on. Go back and check your work and the vent hoses around the tank. Good luck.

Here we go again http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4522052947&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

Isn't this the cutest thing you ever saw?

John, Ziebart is fairly common and I have seen it inside engine bays frequently. Looks horrible. It washes off with mineral spirits, though. Where on earth are you driving five hours to see a Z in Florida?

The stock rear spring rate is 1.80 Kg/mm.

For you, Victor? Today only! 68,000 yen will be $662.38. Read the note below...buy two before Valentines day and get a 10,000 yen rebate. www.xe.com/ucc/ Great catalog to drool over. If anyone orders some stuff, write back and tell us how it went.

I don't know what I was thinking when I was talking about "early" and "late" series one types. That was the next year -duh! Sorry. Whatever year it was represented as when it was sold is irrelevant IMO. We are fortunate to have a build stamp on the VIN plate describing what year the car is. Granted, sales representatives titled the cars certain model years, but I don't put a lot of stock in that information as long as there is a build date on the VIN plate. I agree with Marty's advise. Carl is right on talking about hydraulics.

This sounds like a pretty good deal. You are always going to hear about someone who found a better car for less, but this one is in your face right now, not some time in the future - maybe - perhaps a similar car...you know what I'm saying. I might suggest that the 7/70 build date makes it a 1970 model year and would put it right on the edge between the early series one types and the later series one types. A nice car to start with. Regardless of the engine build, verify matching numbers with the VIN plate and you have all the potential for a restoration queen or a nice unique club car.

Yea, that car is overpriced. Me thinks some people think that if they have that much money in their car, then that is what it is worth! You make a good point, Tomohawk. You never know without actually looking at the car. It could be real nice. More pictures are needed, definitely.

Stole this picture off http://www.zparts.com/home.html That is most definitely a Z chassis underneath.

I was 16 when my babes rolled off the assembly line. My friend's father bought the first Z I ever saw and now I own her. I had a race car in my 20s.

Thanks for all the leads, guys. I'm not giving up on a replacement yet. As you can imagine, I have a million other things to do in front of a steering shaft U-joint. But don't call me slacker! I'll start asking around. After a few weeks of searching, I just found a place to restore my alternators. The poor guy called me up and told me that he was going to have to send out the "staters"? and have them rewound. And then he says: "ya' know, ya can't get parts for these things anymore!". He was all freaked out because the alternators were going to cost me $90 or more each by the time they are all rebuilt and looking pretty again. You should have seen them. Rusted solid - frozen up and really nasty. Ahh...the restoration game...

Zrush, Yes, Amino Alkyd Enamel paint is no longer used as "state-of-the-art" paint. It is my understanding that Banzai has the market on repro stickers, they are correct, and in all probability supplied the VZ cars.

I have the same problem but have not reached that point yet. I plan to take the steering shaft to a machine shop and get a replacement U-Joint. Thanks for the lead on the mfgr and part #. I'll let you know what I find. Chris

Oh that's too funny. Thanks!

I bought a windshield from Nissan last June. $275. It was on order for six weeks and the day after the parts guy called to tell me it wasn't looking good, he called back to tell me it was in. It came in a Nissan bag with a "Made in Japan" decal / sticker on it, and the etching in the corner includes the Nissan logo. I am 99% positive that Nissan is no longer carrying the windshield. but having them aftermarket made for years as JZM suggests makes perfect sense to me. Yes, some guy DID just pay $800 for a new windshield on eBay. He also paid $400 to have it boxed up and shipped. It is going on a concours restoration.

The paint code site you are probably asking about was made by "mperdue" of this club http://datsunprojects.org/zpaintcodes/ I confirm the decal / sticker conversation. Banzai has it correct.

I agree Zrush. You would think that the car could be pushed into the driveway or something? I don't think the pictures do the description justice. Better pictures!