Curtis240Z

Did you check the distributor drive timing (oil pump drive)?

1/2X, the front is easier.

Do you have the later style (non-adjustable) slave cylinder and clutch fork? The "acid test" to check for proper clutch travel is to have the car in neutral, press the clutch and slowly try and put the car in reverse. If the gears start to grind then you don't have enough travel. When you get to the point where the clutch pedal is about 2" off the floor and then the reverse gear starts to grind, then you should be good.

280Zs have an internally oiled cam system. There is a hole on the base circle of each cam lobe where the oil comes out. Maybe you have a sticky valve guide.

Did you double check to make sure all the spark plugs are the same model number and gap?

It sounds like your air pump is going bad. The noise I hear from your video clip sounds like a small fog horn. Try and remove the belt for the air pump and see if the noise and your performance gets better.

http://centerlinewheels.com/wheels_detail.php?mw_id=35&sw_id=436

big side to the rear

The 260Z also had a few differences like the motor displacement. The engine serial number located on the block below the #6 spark plug should start with L26 if it is a 260Z motor. Also the bumper overiders on an early 260Z are all rubber unlike a 240Z which is chrome with a rubber strip on top. 4/73 is pretty early in the year for Nissan to switch models to 260Z, but i guess anything is possible.

Pertronix would be the easiest conversion. Crane ignition is gone.

maybe gnosez is talking from personal experience.....

The exhaust bracket was made at the muffler shop. You should be able to make another one from a piece of flat bar stock.

I gave up on the factory bolts, mainly because the nuts aren't self locking. The lock washer doesn't keep it tight over the long run. So by also using a self locking nut, it helps keep everything tight.

Use grade 8 bolts and self locking nuts. The driveshaft bolts always seem to work themselves loose.

Since the front fender is smashed, make sure the frame rail isn't bent. The interior could be a better color too. I wouldn't pay over $1000 for that especially since the engine isn't running.

Yes, very nice guys and a good source for parts.

There are so many options and taste to consider. Price also plays a part in your decision. Although the selection of good 225/50-15 tires are getting scarce. If you use a spacer just don't forget to periodically retorque the spacer (it is so easy to forget because it is behind the wheel). I prefer to use a wider wheel, but that cost more money. Wheels are always a very subjective subject.

Did you make it to the MSA show a couple weeks ago? There were almost 400 Zs there, lots of ideas in one place.

You could buy a pair of front Tokico Illuminas now and when you upgrade to coilovers you can use it for the back struts. MSA's coilover kit uses a MR2 strut application in the front and a 240Z front strut in the back. Of course there is shortening of the strut housing and machining of the strut shafts required.

John is correct about the diameter, but the depth is longer on the rear housing. Tokico uses the front strut with a spacer and puts a different number on it as the rear strut.

I believe Mike was referring to the Series I (knob style) will only tilt back and forth by maybe 15 degrees. The later ones with the lever will lay down all the way until it hits the rear shelf.

I don't think there are any huge gaps that a car manufacturer can slide into to make a landmark car. High end technology coming to the general masses seems to be the closest thing. That is why I ordered a 370Z with Sport Package (Revmatching) to drive along with our 240Zs. I also like the Lotus Evora, but I'm not sure the Lucas electronics are reliable enough not to leave me stranded.

Did you mean your spark plug gap is .035? Also try and richen the carbs a little.

Jon and Rob are correct Scheider Cams make different cams for carbs and EFI. The lobe centers are different to develop vacumm for the EFI. Which cam did you buy?

Acceptable sound levels/tone is such a subjective thing. Is there a local Z Club nearby so you can hear what others have done? I have a Clifford header with a 2.5" pipe back to a Flowmaster Delta 50 muffler in the rear, no resonators.