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Ahmed, Just after mixing both the molding and casting materials, degass each under 28-29 inches of mercury (vacuum)-to get rid of bubbles-for 2 to 5 minutes, and subject the mold to the same immediately after filling-no bubbles and greater detail. For the small parts it works very well, obviously, in casting a console, you need a pretty good size vacuum chamber. I am hoping to offer some reproduction parts before too much longer. I want to make sure they aren't going to fade, chalk, melt, or otherwise create problems for a buyer, and get some of our hardcore members to check out their quality before I make them available. Will

What is their light output, and actual package size? Will

That is pretty much what my solution was. with one exception, All of the pieces I have made have come out far superior when 28-29 inches of mercury was involved every step of the way(mixing the molding and casting compounds, and immediately after casting). Will I am now waiting on my fourth generation of casting materials -including dimensionably machining wax for cast aluminum casting. Will

Here are the major milestones(what actually made progress toward the result I want) in my development of this led conversion. 1) a plate array to fit the reflector housingwith leds on 3/8" centers-plenty of light, no easy way to add turn signal functions(dual voltage adaption for the switches for the leds).Leds are too close together to add a seconfdarray 2) An array to fit the housings on 1/4" centers-set up as two seporately switchable arrays on 1/2" centers. One array for runnig lights, one for turn signals. Individual arrays work great(just arse a led flasher to the pigtail), but 1/2" is too far apart for the leds(highly "pixelated) Pinpoints are way too aggravating 3) Place a diffuser between the leds and th lens-points are still present, butlight is dimmer overall. 4) Replace lens reflector housing with a flexible sheet that conforms to the complex curve of the lens-better clarity! Still inpoints-sand the inside of the lens, sand the leds-light output drops, points remain-sanding the inside of the lens spreads the light to the edges of the lens, but still not uniformly. I power up a stock combination light and verify with Escanlons gallery image: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8952&sort=1&cat=500&page=2 that even in the stock configuration the lens is not lit all the way out to the edges. The next set of attempts will be based application based on fiber optic technology and light diffusion. 1) Sending all of the light into the lens from the rear edges, and playing with the finish(sanding and painting) the inside of the lens to send the light out to the front. With out getting into the theory behind all of this, I believe this will be an integral part of the final product. 2) Casting a clear insert for the lenses with leds imbedded in them, using a cast in fressnell lens pattern to diffust the leds. I feel like either or a combination of both of these two (sanding and painting the back of the insert) will actually be the answer that makes my view of the way it should be, a reality. I am waiting for more materials to be able to make the insert, and more leds to imbed and wire up. These assembledges I will take pictures of. I am very optimistic that the answer will be in these two ideas, they address the problems as I see them head on. Once the light is flowing as I have envisioned it, I will work out the fit details to keeping the stock look(fitting everthiing in the reflector housing-and a plug)and pass a set to Dave for review. Will

Everything you want, nothing you don't! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14897&highlight=headlight+upgrade+harness Dave did a great job with the harnesses!

They're BaaaacK http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7959535198&category=33590&sspagename=WDVW Bugger, he beat me again!!! Will

I can't speak for Dave, but I am still not satisfied with the versions I have made. I haven't even sent Dave a version to evaluate because the results have been less than my expectaztions. Every damn one(7 actual attempts) has points of light. It is too difficult to put out a price before the product is finalized, but the price will in now way reflect all of the trial and error that has gone into this-If I weren't doing this for my car already, no way I would put anywhere near this much time, energy and effort into it to sell-no break even point. I still have a couple of ideas to try-but I am waiting on materials. Will PS. When I get the example I am looking for, and I will, I'll send it to Dave, and get his opinion, then he and I will work out the details of a basic kit with instructions, a complete kit with instructions, and a bolt on swap-or some combination of the above.

The Twins threw a fit didn't they? I am seriously interested in the car. Will

I refuse to answer on the grounds I would have to say no, but I posted first about it! Yes, I know, and I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night! I hope to have the chance to check out and buy the car. Will

I am sure they will sell more, but atleast I beat you to the fairlady! Will

What paper work do you have on the car? Do you have a title? Where on the east coast is the car? I would like to come look at it. I will bring money, and a trailer. Will

DOn't worry about what she is worth, send her to a great home(like Mine!) where she will get all of the TLC she can handle, and be the trophy car she deserves to be! I don't know what she would be worth either-need pictures, lots and lots of pictures! Will

Send your pieces to me Ed, I'll see what I can do! Wait, I am going to the Farm today, Let me see if I have a 73 up there. I'll post when I know. Will

If you didn't drive a Z, and weren't a member of this club, I would have to call you a P.H. for getting my set! WIll

PM headed to you!

I lived with a '76 2+2 for 10 years- http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=12372&sort=1&cat=500&page=2 As best I remember, the differences are the shell of the car: Doors Door glass, Upper inside door handles(for the back seat), Seats(they fit a coupe , but are made to be moved from the rear too) Seatbelts Dog leg trim Hatch shell Hatch glass Sway bars, Console(has the rear ashtray, but fits a 2 seater!) Hatch sub floor, hatch carpet, Rear Harness(it is just longer than a 2 seater) Drive shaft Shock absorbers Pretty much everything else is interchangeable. I have a rolling '77 2+2 parts car with a clear title at the farm-wiring is bad, no differential mount, a few coupe fitting interior pieces missing, but most of the other parts are in good useable shape (including both the doors)if there is something you need(and aren't in a rush). Will

Ed, I'll see if there is one on my '72 harness. If there is, and it is in good shape, I will see what I can do about making a mold over the next few days. Right now I am waiting for materials for a mold for the led conversion of the combinations lights-I ordered plenty, so I can use some of it for the grommet, but I will have to order some material to cast it with. I will post tomorrow if the grommet is on my harness. Will

The Doors and everything in them ARE DIFFERENT, the stretch takes place in the doors-don't buy coupe doors for a 2+2, they will not fit! PM me. Will

TomoHawk, Never settle for less than what you want. Settling only fosters dissappointment. Will Pm me what you are after.

Any year as long as they are no from a 2+2(unless that is what you have, and then the 2 seater variety won't fit it) What do you need, I have a couple of sets of both. Will

Yess siree DaddyZ-look at my gallery. Uh, anyone who has an MGB works on it-The only way to keep one tuned up is to leave it in the driveway :stupid:! With an MGB, atleast he isn't driving the price of my Z parts up on ebay! Will

That doesn't look too bad. But, if your buds are having a hard time seeing your turnsignals with your lights on, either your lenses are dirty(on the inside), or you are having a problem that clear lenses probably won't fix either(electrical-low current) Will

I bought the rail material he is using, and I am going to make a set with a different profile for my GTO look-a-like, very similar to what was actually used. I just have to find the ring bit to profile it. Machining fins into it could be done too the actual stock is D shaped and 3/4" x 1&1/2" I believe-I can check later today, and get a picture if it will help. Will

The rectangle in the upper portion of the lense is a two piece (glued together) reflector(just like the reflector in a bicycle wheel) that is then glued into the lens. The side markers are made the same way, but the body of the lens is one of the two pieces(I can post a picture of the side marker dissassembled if it will make this more clear). I will take a stab at editing one of the previously posted pictures to make it more plain. Ok, I need better lighting to take a photo that clearly shows that it is a seporate piece glued in. Will

From Tina at Klearz: "... as you mention they are infact 1 peice lens. if the reflector is glued on, it would probably just be embeded in my reproduction, as in not removable. i ajusted the quote on the z page on our website. let me know if you have anymore questions thanks for taking the time to send me those pictures. Tina > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 09:30:52 -0800 > Tina, Is there a phone number I can call to talk about the lenses for a few minutes, the reflector in the lens is actually a 2 piece reflector guled into the lens, and I don't see a way to cast it in a single casting, and keep the reflectivity(it is smooth on both outer surfaces, and obviously jagged between the two pieces that are glued together and then glued into a hole in the lens. > > William Stokes Hey there, "...I see now what you mean about the reflectors being on the inside. If the reflector can be detached from the lens we can cast it as a seperate peice no problem. But it will be 10-20$ depending on the size of it. Tina"