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240z70

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Everything posted by 240z70

  1. Yes I should have provided the most information I had available, and be clearer in my post. My apologies to all for my inadequate post. Additional info: Yes all lights work other than the signals, and I don't have a heater, so I can't check it thru there. When I said jump, I actually meant providing a direct signal from the battery to the solenoid ignition signal post, not putting cables from another battery to my battery. Both switches (turn and lights - left/right) were torn apart and rebuilt by Dave Irwin, so I feel very comfortable about their internal condition. The wiring underneath the dash going to them is a whole different thing, so I have to check that. Sometimes when we are trying to describe a situation, we tend to focus on some of the items and forget that other people can't actually see the whole situation and therefore are left looking for a needle in a haystack, without really knowing how big the stack is or how small the needle in question could be. A more descriptive explanation on my part should have been forthcoming in order to provide you with as much information as I actually was aware about the situation. I will check the other ideas you guys had and hopefully I can find the cause and eliminate this issue. Thank you all for your assistance, support and quick responses.
  2. Scenarios: Dirty battery connections/ Old Battery: Dont think that is the problem. Battery is new, and all the connections were cleaned and "vaselined". Bad connector connection: Could be. Will check those with meter. Loose wire somewhere???: Maybe, will check since it seems that the starter does not get the ignition signal to start, BUT why would it affect the turn signals...? When i put a small lead from POS on the battery and touch the Ignition signal post on the solenoid it starts without a problem. That seems to indicate the problem is upwind to the ignition, not downwind to the battery. Back of ignition switch issue? Perhaps and will check, however that would not have anything to do with the turn signals that I can think of. Different under column area. Turn signal and Flasher not working when it wont start: Weird, EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS, (all lights), brake lights, headlights etc. As soon as I have time, i will check: 1-Loose wires under column. 2-Voltage/Current on the ignition signal wire to the starter when key turned to crank, if it does crank. 3-Will recheck all fuses, but this does not make sense, since it does start at times and I have already checked them all. 4-Bad fuselink: Cant be this since it does start half the times, but I will check with a meter. ---Is there a good place that anyone knows of that sells reputable 240z fuselinks? I should probably buy a couple to have on hand. ---I think there were 3 fuselinks on the early Z, but not sure. 1-Starter, 1-Alternator, not sure where the other was. ---Also, have not found the correct Factory Service Manual for this early type Z (prod: 11/69). Xenon posting says "Looking for Manual". ==Thoughts: Is the ignition signal wire in anyway sharing a factory relay with the turn signals for dash power? If I cant find the issue, i will have to install a temporary supplemental Push On/NOff switch connected to a fuse and a power relay in order to be able to hot wire it remotely from the drivers seat if the key wont crank. Dont want to have to open the hood everytime it doesnt crank..LOL. Anything else that you guys recommend or that I forgot to consider or mention?🙊
  3. Background: 1970z-L28F54 engine- Starter sometimes would not crank, other times it would, so i figured that the starter was bad. Since its probably over 20+ years old minimum, I figured the Z could use a new starter, so I bought a new High Torque starter and installed. Then tested it. It did the same thing, (so I probably wasted the money, but at least I know that component is new) and THEN I NOTICED that whenever it would not start, the turn signals would not make any sound (flasher sounds) and the signals would not work. The funny (not really funny) thing is that IF i test it and crank it every 5 minutes for a half hour, some of the times it will crank, then it wont, then it will. When it does not crank, there is no noise from the solenoid. If I test the turn signals there is also no noise from the solenoid when this happens. I tried to jump start it and every time it did not crank, i would jump it and it would start immediately. This has me puzzled as to where to start. -The fuses all seem good. -Cant be the fusible link because 2 or 3 times out of 5 it will start just fine. -Not sure why the turn signals don't work when it does not crank. -Even tried to cheat and check the turn signals to see if they worked: If they did, the car would crank, if they did not, the car would not. Anyway any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated, since i am tired of jump starting it (have not had time to start to trace all the wires for bad connections yet). Suggestions? Case studies from someone who had this happen to them?
  4. Perhaps only archived instead of discarded?? That would be ideal, but you never know. Thanks Patcon.
  5. Maybe if all the different forums got together and created a virtual HISTORICAL DATSUN 240 Ƶ SOCIETY they might have enough weight to make a formal request to each state's DMV to provide them with maybe just the basic information for each HLS30: First Sold, City/State Each Subsequent Sale, City/State If destroyed City/State This would be done for the public historical interest with no personal/confidential information required from DMV. If such a virtual Historical Society was created, then perhaps it could be headed by someone who is very much into the history of the Ƶ. I think that perhaps someone like Carl Beck would probably be a good candidate for its directorship, and then have a senior member from each Ƶ Club Forums to represent its Club as a Board Member of the Historical Society. Each club would select its Board Member, and the Board Members would select its Director. I think this would give a lot of cohesion and centralization to all the available information that each club seems to hold but is almost impossible to find without becoming a member of each club (us/ca/uk/eu/au/jp) which is a horrendous if not impossible task. The society would operate virtually, have links to all member clubs, have a glossary that could search all clubs at once (if possible) and a repository of historical information that would be linked to the respective club that owns or provides the material. Anyway, I know its a crazy idea, but perhaps someone has a better one for how the history on the z can be compiled and kept updated by all the clubs to ensure that anyone interested can easily find historical, important and pertinent information to the entire 240 Ƶ community worldwide. These cars are a treasure to most owners and are fast becoming a very expensive endeavor due to financial cost rise, parts availability, age, and scrap. It seems that almost half the people that own one either are parting or buying parts from others that are being parted and scrapped. The inventory is dwindling. Will the Ƶ last another 50 years?
  6. For those who want more info on what a reaction disc is, here you go. Has pictures also. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69706-reaction-disk-pictures-and-walkthrough/#comments Without the reaction disk, the booster will not function correctly.
  7. Pat, could one just make one? I mean, if you have a metal lathe you could turn a big chunk of aluminum (very expensive..) or just a block of hard wood such a oak, etc. and make it. It should not be a problem if the wood is hard and can fend off damage from the pressure and it would be very cheap to make. almost any size bend you want. Add a bottom base and screw it onto your work bench when you need it. The other idea I had was just buy (fleamarket/craigslist) some cheap V-Groove Belt pulley/wheels that have the same shaft hole size, grab a small steel plate, weld a shaft on it vertically, and put all your different sized V-Groove pulleys on the shaft. Just make sure that the pulleys have the same center hole diameter size. Or make multiple shafts, one say for larger pulleys and others for smaller tubing sizes. That will let you do anything from small tube size up to whatever size you need. There is not many sizes that one would need. Anyway, just an idea of how to possibly do it on the cheap and easily accessible. As my dad use to say " Be frugal, when you need something, make use of what you have first, then look for the easiest solution to adaptation to fulfill the need'.
  8. Tweeds, hey what can I say? You were right on the money with that tool. Simple to use, no issues. Did not eve try the other type that I have since I did not want to waste time and definitely not waste line once I had it in place, isolated and secured....Thank you for the advice. Also, thanks to all who have provided input which I will follow. I will try to bleed the MC first, then I may just redo the wheels, and try again. I will also check for leaks. If I cant fix it, I will remove the booster and either make my own reaction disk if it is missing, redo the booster push rod adjustments or just plain replace the booster with a new one. If I go with the adjustments, and it still does not work, that will be an automatic decision to buy and replace the booster. If I don't feel like messing with the adjustments, then that will also be a decision to just replace the booster. Don't know yet how I will feel. Getting tired of bleeding brakes to no avail.... https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/631011/10002/-1
  9. Activities: Front to back Brake Line replacement, Rear Handbrake cable replaced, Clutch Line replaced due to visible wear and tear, MC pressure retention valve, remove & replace speedometer cable. MC Pressure retention valves were seen in both MC orifices. The one servicing the disk brakes was removed. Clutch Line Replacement: No problem, Adequately bled it afterwards. Clutch functions well. Rear Handbrake Cable: One heck of a job. Because of dual exhaust, and drive shaft were in place, this is one *itch of task. No room to maneuver. However it got done. May still need additional adjustment but for now it stops the car from rolling. Also, the cable is longer on one side than the other. Didn't know that.. Issues, one of the tabs securing the line to its holder in the tunnel broke, had to make one. Will need to buy replacement ones but they are narrower than the brake holding tabs and not sure where to get these new. Remove/Replace Speedometer Cable: R&R Speedometer cable. You have to be a circus contortionist to work upside down under the dash....Got done. When tested it was a bit jumpy/ delayed, but it did work. Could be because of years of non-operation and that fault may be inside the gauge itself...The old cable was rusty and had broke in half. The plastic/rubber outer casing was damaged and missing in some spots. Front to Back line replacement: Well, I actually did "OBVIOUSLY" forget, BUT the line was only flared on one side (back), since i cut it longer than needed because I want to place it first and then see how and where i would cut it....hah hah, before I attached it to the car. So the fitting was fed on the hood side and I tied a rope behind it, then pulled on the rope while underneath the car and the fitting made its way all the way to the back...Pretty easily, actually. Cut back the old line to the tunnel area so it would not be left in the engine compartment and leaving the securing tabs there free for the new line.Then I isolated the line, by getting two long pieces of fuel hose 5/16 or 3/8 and cutting it long ways in a spiral cut that would wrap around the line the entire length of the under-body. Then I zip tied the hose every 6 inches around the line. Did not cut the line on the back side, just bent it out of the way. The next thing was to now secure the line/hose along its way and out of the way of any pinch points and/or moving parts. Then the final touch was to bend and secure the line along the underside. Looked good. Now that left me free to bend and secure the new line into the brackets in the engine compartment that had held the old line. Now came the time to put on the front fitting and bend the line accordingly to the MC. Then I knew where to cut it and flared (once again ensuring that the fitting was on the line and facing the right way. Then I flared it and could now connect it to the MC. Bled all four wheels, and tested brakes: The brakes do stop the car BUT take 3 times the distance. The brake pedal does go all the way down and is soft, (feels almost like power ABS Brakes) not that traditional had mid way resistance. Will have to analyze and address again. I guess another way to put it is to compare it to the steering on a 240z compared to the powered steering on a new car.. Known: The MC is a 15/16 which provides additional stopping power (~20%+) versus the stock 7/8 MC, and the Booster is a 7" double diaphragm which also provides additional stopping power (~27%). Together, the added stopping power should make the car brake and curl on a dime. It does not. Suspected: The Booster reaction disk is missing, and the booster push rod is not correctly adjusted for length. This would create a long brake push. It does not have an airy mushy push like when a brake system has when it has air in the system, HOWEVER I did not bench bleed the MC and the fluid receptacle was empty. Path forward: Remove the MC, Remove the Booster, check for existence of reaction disk (if not there, buy/make one - 6mm thick I believe), Adjust booster push rod correctly, reinstall booster/MC, bleed MC. May also re-bleed the 4-wheels. Assistance: Any and all would be appreciated in the form of diagnosis, suggestions, and information on perhaps where to get a reaction disc and what the soft brake causes could be.
  10. 240z70

    SpinTech Muffler

    " An aggressive street muffler for the performance enthusiast where clearance and space issues need to be addressed and want a quieter sound." An aggressive street muffler with a quieter sound? Yeah it didnt make sense to me either when I read it...Aggressive usually means louder an possibly raspier, but quieter?? Interesting. I also do like the sound, but what I am trying to find is one that was installed in the 240Z. The sound would be a lot different than one on a V*...That is why i asked the question.
  11. Question: Is there a free/paid service where a currently REGISTERED Z owner can obtain all the history on on his/her own 240z down to the point of when it was first sold in the USA? Info: When it was first sold State/City Owner (maybe not due to privacy concerns-understandable) Every other time it was sold/bought/registered along with city/state. I don't think DMV in California provides that info. Or does it? Does any agency in any state do that?
  12. Has anyone installed a SPINTECH Low profile 3000XLF Sportsman muffler on their Z without any resonators? If so, what did it sound like and do you know what the decibels on it were? https://spintechmufflers.com/3000xlf-sportsman-low-profile-muffler/ I looked extensively for some info, but the only thing I found were installations on non-240z vehicles which obviously will have a totally different sound and decibel numbers. Thanks for any info.
  13. Issue: I need to install the A-Pillar. I know that it is glued on, however how does the edge trimming look like? Is it just glued on, or doe it have the metal trim on one or both of its edges? Progress: I bought: the A-Pillar kit, the Glue (Contact liquid and Spray), and I also have the metal strip. Have looked at pictures online, but cant really tell if the material is just glued on with the edges rolled over and glued or if it has the metal trim on the edges. Can anyone send me good pictures of both the top and the sides so I can see what it is supposed to look like? Thanks you.
  14. "OBVIOUS'ly CAPTAIN, I surely will try not to forget it...It would be detrimental to the success of the project...Wasted time, effort, and material. Thanks for the reminder. It would suck to forget that part of it..
  15. Well now I have two tools. I will try them and see which works better for me. As long as one of them works, then I should not have any downtime and can focus on how to secure the line properly,
  16. I decided to take Tweeds advice and bought that tool. I want to simplify the project and obtain a successful outcome. Not being able to make good flares is not an option that I want to consider.
  17. Yep, I bought the 25ft copper/nickel 3/16 line. I do have a flaring kit but its the other type...https://econosuperstore.com/itm/sae-metric-double-flaring-brake-line-tool-kit-with-mini-pipe-cutter-car-truck/ May have to invest in the other one.
  18. Yes, that might also be an option. I could jacket the line just at the zip tie points by sleeving it with 1/4 inch line to prevent rubbing and then secure it. Its only temporary for a couple of years until the transmission has to come out. Thanks for the input.
  19. Yep, that might be the smartest solution Zed.. I will have to attach new brackets to hold the new line, and don't want drill screws pointed into the leatherette tunnel covering... A way to buypass that, might be to run the line thru the firewall, under the center console and popping it down below before the tunnel ends. Unseen, can be attached downward and would provide as you said, a temporary solution until the gear box comes out. Either way, the entire line HAS to be replaced, I don't like joined brake lines. If anyone has a better solution and/or information, let me know. Thanks to all.
  20. Is it possible to remove and replace the brake line going to the rear of a 1970 240Z WITHOUT removing the transmission? I need to replace the line because it has a leak, but I have not lifted up the car yet (to be scheduled) and wanted to find out if anyone had done it or knew if it was possible. I would prefer not to remove the tranny until the time I have to replace the clutch which is still very good now. I thought about it and saw some videos which left me wondering if there is enough room either thru the bottom or by going thru the shifter hole and accessing the 3 or 4 clamps that secure the brake line along the tunnel. It looked like the two inner clamps closest to the shifter might be accessible thru the top and the outer two from the bottom...not sure. If someone has a clue or video, let me know and/or post the link.
  21. Need to buy Brake Booster Reaction Disk (Disc) for a 7" Dual Diaphragm Chrome Vacuum Booster. Cant find any place that sells just the disk. Did a lot of searching for a while but no luck. Does anyone know where I can buy one new?
  22. 240z70

    Quiet Muffler

    Finally changed the exchaust a while back. Cut the 2.5 main pipe, added a 1 in into 2 out used muffler OEM for some car. Dont know what but didnt care. THIS IS TEMPORARY....All I wanted to do was buy time to find the correct set up and be able to drive the car without sounding like i was running straight pipes (which mainly I was) and keep from getting hassled. Yep, bought a sound meter and tested the sound and it sounds good....OEM type maybe a little louder, however at 5000 RPMs the decibels are about 94-96 which is a great improvement from before which was about 116 -120 decibles at the same rpm. The muffler is about 5-6 inches tall, so that killed my available clearance and bumps/steep driveways entrances are a no-no at anything more than 1 mile per hours. Changed the tires with slightly larger ones, 215-60-15 (posted pictures in the tires/wheels forum if you are curious...car and wheels were dirty so disregard that.) and when I changed tires, I raised the suspension up. Between that and the extra tire height, it has about 4 - 5 inches or so clearance on the bottom....Still to low for me... The long term plan is to find low profile wide rectangular 18 to 24 inch muffler that has one 2.5 in and two 2" out. I have seen a company that makes some, the muffler is about 2.75 inches high, about 10-12 inches wide wide and 18-22 inches long, but that one seems loud and its very expensive. Its height was barely more than the 2.5" inch inlet. So I will look to see if anyone either makes one more quiet and less pricey or I may just end up having to make one myself and tig it together...Does not sound like something I would prefer to do, but I do need to have a longterm solution to the ground clearance and the noise. If I have to make it, it will be with bolt on junctions so that if when I bolt on to the supply, I can measure both height and decibels before i spend the time and effort to make the connection to the read pipes. Obviously due to the limited room on the Z, it will be under part of the transmission mid/rear area and also cover most of the driveshaft, but it wont really matter because if I have to drop the tranny or driveshaft, I would have to remove the exaust anyway because of the setup it has and by having bolt on connections, it will simplify the removal/re-installation. I will be looking for a muffler that meets the size/shape requirements but that also has some type of testing on it, whether it is a percentage noise reduction value or a plain tested and will not exceed X-amount of decibels on engines up to 3 liters/6 cylinders at up to XX-amount of RPMs. But I dont know if anyone actually does that.. Some of the ones that said they were quiet, i checked their video and they were pathetically loud, with a drone, and some sounded like the engine was tearing itself apart...I know I am looking for gold and I may have to settle for steel, but have to try... Any suggestions/leads on a source for the muffler that might meet the clearance and noise limitation?
  23. I just changed my panasport wheels from 195's to 215x60xR15. They fill the wheel well pretty decently, adjusted shock height and then did a full alignment. Yeah I know, they need a cleaning...Will do maybe this weekend....
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