mdbrandy

I'd say he's quite optimistic. I paid less than half his starting price for mine, and it's in at least as good, if not better shape. With a radio, working antenna, working clock, and only 3/4 of the miles.

How bizarre. Who knows. Without fiche assistance, it's hard to tell. Looks to me like the most likely thing is that the ones I showed probably came maybe from 77-78, and the earlier from 74-77, but they were made to be interchangable, and since they are easily-broken plastic, a lot of mixing went on. That would be my best guess, but without much supporting evidence. BTW, I am VERY jealous that you can just go out to a junkyard and look at first gen Z's. I go to any junkyards around here, and they look at me like I'm crazy. "Z what? ":disappoin

Interesting that these show up on e-bay just after we have this thread... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2468821376&category=34204

The car that these came off of was a '78 as well. Production date of 5/78, so it was fairly late in the model year. My "good" '78 280Z is also a 5/78 car, and it has all the same bolts in the same places as the other one. Just doesn't have the plastic liner any more. And Tomohawk, you're not making a "big thing" at all - this is the kind of conversation that keeps this board alive - finding out all the differences between our cars, and sometimes tracking down why we have what we have!

Oh, and there are little clips that clip these to the wheel-well edge, in addition to about 8 screws from front to back. I didn't like the clips much.

Mine look pretty different. They are all one piece, and extend from the headlights all the way back to the little rubber flap that seals off the rear fender. Pic attached. The headlight area is at the bottom, and you can see some pieces of the rubber flaps attached at the top where the hand is holding them up. sblake01, thanks for taking your pic - it prompted me to get off my butt and out to the garage to take mine!

I don't see what I am talking about in my last post, although there seem to be some similar parts around 63830-N4200 on fiche 126-7. Looks like there were some changes over time, but there were protectors under the fender from about 1976 on.

I believe that he's talking about the front inner fender covers that I also believe only came on 78, and maybe 77 280Z's. The '78 parts car I took apart had them (and I still have them). The new '78 CA car that I have does not. They are plastic liners that cover all the way from the headlight bucket, go along the top of the fender (inside) and then back down along the rear of the fender well. They are attached to the inside of the fender with small bolts, which are still there in my CA car, so I assume it originally had the plastic liners, but they are now gone. The plastic liners I have are in mediocre shape, and I figure on trying to figure out how to fix the cracks and use them on the CA car, but it isn't a priority. Shall I take pictures?

My first car was a '71 240Z with an automatic. Changed it out for a 4 speed after driving it for a year. I just love the shifting. I drive my 5-speed 280Z now, and when I need more than two seats, I drive my 5-speed Camry! Only when I'm forced to do the minivan thing do I give up my shifter. An automatic would sure be a lot more convenient around town, but who cares ! Drive what you like... Oh, and isn't the differential a little lower geared than in the manual (3.36 vs 3.54 or something?) Also, you get to deal with the dual point distributor on the automatic. If it was originally an automatic car, of course.

XL works, but 2XL is better.

If you can spend the time looking, you might find a transplanted CA or AZ Z-car in the US Midwest or East Coast. That's what I did. I had to drive 250miles to get it, but I drove it home from there, and now I just have to KEEP it essentially rust free. Mine was a CA car that someone moved to OH and then garaged for the rest of it's life. I've seen several others like it advertised in Chicago, Ohio, Michigan. Haven't paid much attention to cars on the US Eastern Seaboard. Good luck.

Wow! Your site has undergone some changes Chloe! I didn't know you were into body panels now... Looks like I'll have to visit more often :classic: .

Looks like the same part that Courtesy Nissan is selling for $113 and Banzai for $110. The $135 in the auction seems pretty steep.

I see replacement panels on e-bay once in a while, and here's one cut off a parts car: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2467506597&category=10076 Courtesy Nissan also is selling new ones: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=999M1-S30ZR

All 280's are injected, and he says in his original post that he cleaned the injectors, so I suspect not :classic: .

Check out the FI Manual at: http://www.72hours.net/~zcar/ For the problems you're having, it tells you to go through the ignition system first (which you've apparently done), and then indicates you might look at the air flow meter. Good luck.

I suspect it matters whether you are dealing with square or round port heads as well. I assume that using a round port header on a square port head would not be the best idea. And Panchovisa is surely right that a turbo won't use a "normal" header.

I'm not much of an engine builder (yet), but I am under the impression that fly cutting the pistons is done for valve clearance, so you don't have the valves impacting the pistons if you have inadequate clearance. Decreasing compression ratio is a side effect of this. FWIW.

I think this is about the 10th one of these I have seen put up there by these guys. They always sell, but rarely for the buy-it-now price.

I got my new heater control panel from Chloe. Quite a while ago, though.

240Z number HLS30-03480 is on e-bay right now, and is located in TX. It sounds like parts-car quality, but interestingly, in one of the pictures, I'd swear it appears to have a hand throttle installed. Oh: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2466360032&category=6187

You won't even get a clean low rust shell without engine or interior for $1000 in IN.

If you weren't in CA, I'd take it, but I think shipping would be somewhat expensive!

The thermotime/cold start combo is what I'm planning on checking when I get the time. The air regulator really shouldn't cause this problem - it just raises the idle speed by supplying more air if I understand right. I am having a bit of trouble understanding what the fuel pressure would have to do with it.

Fuel regulator? So the flow is too low when hot, too high, or what? That's one I wouldn't have thought about. I haven't had time to look into it yet, but several days this week, it has started fine when hot, but today it ran like a tank when started hot again. What lead you to look at the fuel regulator? Thanks for the tip!