PrOxLaMuS©

yes and no... the S15 Silvia.... had VVL or basically Nissans version of Honda's VTEC. So yeh i guess it does matter.

Well, here it goes: Instructions for converting your 81-83 280ZX Turbo or Non-Turbo car to a 4 SPD (O/D) Automatic Trans: Parts to get at your local recycler: 1-82 thru 83 Maxima A/T bellhousing (or entire trans ONLY if you are going to install this unit into a Non-Turbo car with less than 200 HP) 1-82 thru 83 Maxima flex-plate with hardware 1-83 thru 89 Mitsubishi Starion or 84-89 300ZX TURBO ONLY! Torque converter (these have either a 2450-2550 or 2750-2900 stall speed converter) I used the higher stall speed unit. Remember these listed converters are for use with a TURBO CAR ONLY, otherwise, use the 82-83 Maxima converter for normally aspirated cars!! Very important!! 1-83-89 Mits Starion A/T complete (for TURBO CARS OR HIGH HP N/A ONLY) 1-84-89 300ZX (with A/T) driveline If converting a normally aspirated car to this 4 spd trans, it's much simpler than doing a Turbo car. Basically, just install an 82-83 Maxima 4 spd A/T complete with flex-plate into you 280ZX. Use the 300ZX A/T driveshaft (you will have to have it shortened slightly). Be sure to have your trans tested or looked at by a trans specialist before installation, as this work takes lot's of time and early failure is sure to cause deep depression..... Ok Turbo guys (mine is a Turbo): Get the Maxima A/T trans bellhousing and flex-plate handy. Remove the bellhousing from the Starion trans and trash it(be sure to only remove the bellhousing and NOT the O/D unit!!) Whoops! Forgot, be sure to unhook the line from the bellhousing before doing the bellhousing swap! Install the Maxima bellhousing. Be sure to ensure that the o ring between the bellhousing and trans stays in its place during installaition. Now reconnect the line to the bellhousing. Install the MAXIMA flex plate (be sure that it is in the proper direction (look for the old bolt marks, they must face the front of the engine!!) Get the torque converter that you will use for your application and install in A/T. Be certain that the coverter is fully seated or serious damage will occur!! Connect the two wires that you disconnected from your old trans to the "kickdown-solenoid." This is the the solenoid on the driver's side of the trans (there are TWO on the 4SPD A/T) connect the wire to the one towards the rear. Now, mount a switch somewhere by the A/T shifter (this will be the O/D switch). Now, find a (when ignition is on) 12 volt power source and run through the switch. Now run power to the front solenoid on the trans (when 12 volts is applied, the OD is OFF) Absence of voltage allows the O/D to kick on!! Now, you are probably wandering, how do I mount the rear of the trans to the car, well this is the hard part. Before installation, you must cut away the old mounts that were spot welded to the car to hold the old 3spd A/T, or 5spd.. This is essential as the O/D Trans is 6-8" longer than your original trans. After cutting away the above, bolt the trans to the engine (make sure that you installed the MAXIMA flex plate as the 3spd A/T one will not work with the O/D trans!!!! Then raise the back of the trans up and this will help you figure out where the rear of the trans will mount to the tunnel. Now, I'll tell you how I jumped over this next obstacle: I used the original crossmember from the old A/T and bolted it to the underside of the O/D extension housing, then made brackets out of very heavy steel and then fastened to the tunnel with 4 large grade 8 bolts Once you have made up your brackets, attach to the crossmember then raise the trans up until the brackets contact the tunnel. Now, mark where the brackets go with a large black marker. Drill holes through the brackets and through the tunnel (use at least 4 heavy bolts on each side and install a heavy steel plate on the other side of the tunnel (passenger compartment) to help further strenghthen your installation-very important, you do not want this install to fail!!!!! Now once mounted, you should now install the driveline that has been shortened. Once installed, now it is highly recommended that you adjust the driveline angle to be straight and level-important for u joint life and minimal vibration!!!! Now, get in that car and go to the exhaust shop, that guy will be earning his money making the pipe clear!! I had the exhaust shop run 3" pipe front to back, but I must tell you, it runs very close to the frame rail and trans!!! (in fact so close, that I wrapped my exhaust near those areas with an a non-asbestos fabric to shield those areas from the heat. (I really recommend 2-1/2" pipe instead-much easier.... I forgot to explain getting the proper driveline angle. I used pieces of cut sheet-metal placed between the crossmember and the trans extension housing as you cannot do it any other way!!! Enjoy your 70 mph cruises at 2450 rpm and 80 mph cuises at 2850 rpm!!! The trans will downshift into 3rd gear at any speed that I have tried!!! I gives quite the kick in the Turbo car!! TWheel

SR20DET's have 205 HP out of the box not 217 HP

you can get an 280Z automatic transmission from 1976-1978, or from any 280ZX with an automatic transmission. Let me reprhase that... all early and late Z car's.... (240Z-280ZX) will fit. You can also get a 4-speed automatic tranny from an early 81-83? Nissan/Datsun Maxima. It has the same L6 series engine.. but diesal... (L28eD engine like the 280Z and ZX but Diesal) THose 4-speeds are awsome and can handle alot of power. The gear ratios in the 280ZX's are a bit different from the early birds... but will overall have better gear ratios. Differential wise.. your best bet would be a 3.9 for quick acceleration, but wil have higher RPM's at high speeds.. which results in poor gas mileage. Your best bet for daily driving and quick acceleration would be a 3.7 differential.... Also look into a high performance torque converter.... with a high stall speed and lock in the higher speeds. It will accelerate much faster and you will have better launches.

well since it's your first time.. looks like your running ok.. with some practice... you can definatly pull of an low 14..... almost 90% of the time.. the more practice a driver has, with a quicker reaction time, they always always get better overall times. Your .8 sec reaction isnt bad!... but like i said practice makes perfect. If you keep on getting consistant runs at or around the same time, then that's all your car can run. Since it was your first time.. i definatly guarantee you can get low 14's or even high 13's with RACE fuel.

hey thats not very nice... my 280Z had a dealership install sunroof... and it has yet to leak once, even with pounds and pounds of melting Colorado snow ontop of it... maybe i just got lucky.

wise arse

so then for an all stock L28e... what is the best timing range? the book says 10' BTDC/700 RPM for my automatic. but change it to 32'? what's the best range?

whoo hooo... 14 is a good age to look for cars... 500??$$$ only if the engine doesnt run and the body is in good condition, or if the car engine runs barely and the car is rusty. Depends on the condition of the body and engine and drivetrain.. does it run? hows the body? any Rust ? relatively beat up? between $800 to $2,000 depending on what beat up is. But based off your short and little info.. i say expect between $800 and $2,000.

there are people who have been playing with their Z cars since 1969! so there has been numerous experiments... and thank the internet for allowing people to express what they have learned from their Z... but yes hands down.. especially compared to www.zcar.com those forums are soo hard to keep up with.

i found 4 pics total of that car.. but none of the speakers

that ia a BRE front valence, but modified.

hey do you have anymore pics of that car....?? i like that sound setup with those speakers... i wanna better look!

you old folks.. sorry.. i'n nothin but a 17 year old hard rock punk..... Powerman 5000 is nothing compared to the kind a music i listen too.. hehe

http://hybridz.org will help you with that one... but the speedo will not work with the RB motor, unless you use the stock L6 tranny and differential.. which most likely you wont because of the RB26DETT engine and RB25DET 5-speed transmission. You will need an Autometer electronic speedo... and most likely an AutoMeter tachometer as well. Not sure on the tach, you could probably wire it up somehow.. but just go the easy way.

.... i get soo much crap from you Z guys about my subs... they are rotated that way for the picture.. usually they face the rear window.... (the sound pressure get sexy in that little space) and I can feel the bass rather than hear it necessarily, so I can "feel" like i'm at a concert. WIth the box rotated, I can see out of the back window very easily, only about 3 inches is obscured. and in an accident my subs aren't going anywhere... the strut towers are in the way.

NOTE: I did not drill holes in that Center Console...... the original owner did.. so i just replaced the speakers.... i need to fix that.. or find a new center console

yeh STONY!!! man... you are my idol.... the person I look up in the modified Z world.... I want a RB motor! Too much respect.. anyway awsome video!

sweet house Caen Fred!!!!!!!! I want one like that hey texasz... do you have the Twice Pipes exhuast setup?

see

actually those last 3 pics... on the classic Z... look alot like Vspec rims... but they are not... they are 7 spoke Exel rims... model S7 with a cool powder coating. VSpec rims are 6 spoke...

sweeeetttt!!!!

woodzcar damn your paint looks goood man! nice car too ZmeFly

whats an option box?

am I the only one using 20W-50 oil?