duffymahoney

Good old 70s cars and wiring. such a poor original soldier. Turn signal fixed. IMG_1066.MOV IMG_1066.MOV IMG_1066.MOV

Low rpms stop to just rolling stumbles a bit. Could be 100 things, but just trying this. My brain thinks it should help low end torque.

Gorgeous engine bay! I can't cover my stacks, seeing them is part of my love for ITB. On my list to do are the custom stack filters (like singer) and then a belly pan that directs fresh air to the horns.

Also trying some bug screens

Now that my ITB is running nicely. Should I try my SK / OER inner fits? Poor google translates to power torque of the concave fast limits improves. Power torque in the medium and low speed range is impoved. Sort of like a jet nozzle. They come in 30, 34 and 38mm. I have 8x 38mm and 4x 34mm

I finally got my car remote tuned. I had a few settings I didn’t understand, totally wrong, then my biggest issue is my iac. The haltech ecu doesn’t like my balance bar setup. I won’t give up. But I ended up plugging it for my road tuning. First impressions is wow. The car feels so fast. Even peels out a little, which seems crazy for a bone stock 2.4L. Wot passes sound magical. I ended up using Animal Tuning, who works for haltech and tunes on the side. I have dual o2 sensors, 1-3 and 4-6. 1-3 needed about 5% more fuel to obtain the same afr. Which was a pretty cool feature. Next is more wot passes and making sure AFR is on to protect the motor.

I finally got my car remote tuned. I had a few settings I didn’t understand, totally wrong, then my biggest issue is my iac. The haltech ecu doesn’t like my balance bar setup. I won’t give up. But I ended up plugging it for my road tuning. First impressions is wow. The car feels so fast. Even peels out a little, which seems crazy for a bone stock 2.4L. Wot passes sound magical. I ended up using Animal Tuning, who works for haltech and tunes on the side. I have dual o2 sensors, 1-3 and 4-6. 1-3 needed about 5% more fuel to obtain the same afr. Which was a pretty cool feature. Next is more wot passes and making sure AFR is on to protect the motor.

100% hands free cold start, warmed up and idling below 1k. ITB and IAC playing nicely.

Maybe contact a small retail shop? https://www.sakuragarage.com/product-page-2/fujitsubo-legalis-r

Part of the fun of these cars is the frustration dealing with Japan:)

I bought from Streeter Corp, Jesse is great to deal with and gets you better pricing then RHD. He also can get answers from the factory.

Well of my 4 ignition switches. One works fine. Wired stock. So I plan to just use it! Thanks everyone for the help!

Tried it and it worked fine. I would have to make the wiring nicer. But happy it worked. all of my switches are the same.

Well this works fine. Jumping the B/W and G/L.

If I connect behind the switch, when I turn to on wont the starter turn over?

Which black and white is that?

I guess I don’t get that. I will try to wrap my head around it.

What about simple 12v in line diodes (one way)? That way the ecu gets 12v in on and start, minimal issues

Will you explain this a little more?

It's as if Nissan didn't want me to do this:)

The pink ecu wire, doesn't carry a load, it supplys the relay to the ECU. I would need power in the ON and the START. The best way to do that is now my?

Lost power to the ECU while cranking, everything works fine in the on position. If I barely crank the ECU stays on and the car starts.

Well this is the oem new switch. The B/W loses 12v during cranking. The G/W only gets 12v during cranking. I think my option is to tie both parts of the switch together so I get 12v in the on and during cranking. Thoughts? Again, I am not using the stock coil and the stock tach wiring.

Well I am doubting my tests on my new switch. Since it had a broken terminal.

Well the terminal fell off on my brand new switch. I have another coming tomorrow on accident. Hopefully it’s better.