duffymahoney

Ok, if I turn the ignition from on to start and not turn it far. My new ignition and old work fine this way. Both have issues if I turn it further to the clockwise. My next giant question is if I turn it full hard to the right or clockwise. The starter doesn’t kick on at all. This is with both ignition switches. Is this normal? You can see my haltech ecu on the passenger kick panel

New switch has power to B/W on start, but not the G/W. I will check again when i get home with clamps, but that is what I found. Also my old switch if you barely turn it start, it catches 50% of the time. That was Richards idea.

Brand new. But one of the rivets wasn’t set firm enough. .

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I will test mine when I get it! I would guess it would have power in the start position.

Yeah I should do that! I'm 99% sure it's the switch, since I could see it happen on my multi meter.

I am waiting on the stock style terminals to finish it, but I still think the switch is to blame. Which sucks.

Very cool, I didn't know the ballasts design. That makes total sense!

I could move my ecu to the G/W circuit. I bought a new OEM switch. I have a inline fuse coming for that.

I have 2 screws, mine is a 1/71.

Wow lots of good info! You would think that it would need to be hot while cranking. I sometimes get it to be hot for 2-3 starts in a row, then it stops.

B/W from my ignition, a bunch of keyed 12v also seem to be affected by the switch not working correctly. I am guessing it's slow breaking/ getting worse? $40 is an easy thing to test. Also it's like a 5 minute change out.

This site seems to have issues with it. Basically my ignition switch while cranking doesn't give power to B/W wire. I am replacing it.

Well I found one issue. That seems to come and go, but getting worse. It used to be like 1 out 10 times. Now it 9 out 10. Ignition switch is failing IMG_0461.MOV

Also the hose lines, which are filled with hard to get legit gas.

Yeah, getting to those connectors is my issue! I would love to actually use that B&W and fuse it right there, for my iac. But again, it's behind a giant AC.

I have that same wire. So it's just a dangling 12v keyed?! Good old Nissan.

So I think I figured out the short, it was actually mine dumb idea. Originally I was using the G/W wire from behind the tach to pulse (DO) output from the ecu for the IAC. I thought (wrongly) that the wire only went from behind the tach to the coil. and it was a simple way to wire my IAC without adding any new wire. But it also went to the ignition 12v, so when it pulses a negative to run the iac, it was creating a short to the ignition. I have fixed that aspect, but boy was that dumb.

I will try and research that circuit. See what it goes to. You would worry about that one?

B/W ignition plug wire

B/Y ignition wire. .7ohm

B/R ignition switch wire. 51.1 ohm. Bad?

G/W wire isn't connected to anything in the engine bay (abandoned not being hot is smart). Currently it is not hot, since it no longer goes into the tach. It is unplugged. The G/W on my keyed ignition seems to be an empty spot for 12v keyed. Unless I am not reading the wiring diagram correctly.

Thank you for all the help! I was using my defrost 12v positive for my pink haltech keyed 12v, which now seems to be a terrible spot for it. I currently don't have my G/W wire going into the tach and no black and white coming out of the tach, my tach works perfectly as is, from reading the wiring diagram, I don't see it branching out or affecting anything else? Am I wrong about that? Could that be a good spot to get keyed 12v? Since I am not using it at all? Pull that plug out of the ignition plug, then add a new fused pink wire(ecu keyed 12v) into that spot?

I will leave all the wires in the engine bay where they are supposed to be, I will most likely heat shrink and wrap. I have to pull my condenser and see how hard it would be to get to that plug. I have never seen any of those:)