Ed

Can someone enlighten me as to the significance behind this body scheme. I see them every now and then and I feel like there is a history behind this. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3551 I'm not really sure how to do this properly but the pic is in there somewhere.

I have something like this too. Whenever I make a hard U turn to the left, I mean squealing the tires U turn. My car wants to quit, rpm's drop and a few seconds later she comes back to normal. ???? I never thought much of it. I just quit making those quick U turns.

I think they meant some type of sealant. I used a little bit (real little) of black RTV. After you torque down the cap bolts take a rag and wipe the excess that will squeeze out into the block.

Yup, yup, and yup.:classic:

100 is good. You could find a more expensive one if you want. To see if it is in good condition tilt the tranny on it's side and remove the drain plug. It has a magnet attached to it. Inspect the magnet it should have a real fine metallic powder on it, small amounts are normal. Unusually large pieces of metal is not good. This will only tell you if the tranny has been abused. The real test is to install it and run it. To check if it's a five speed - attach the gear shift lever and go through the gears.

Welcome to the Z world. Looks like a decent car. What does the interior look like? In regards to having a 280 engine vs a 240 well, a 280 has a little more power (a good thing). Keep your current carburators as I see they are the round top SU's (stock for your year). I can also tell the original color was the lime green. What is the coke bottle looking thing over by the fuel pump (passenger side of the engine bay)? To help you with a gas tank you must tell us where you are. Once again Welcome!

Some good points made. I agree with you 2many that the drivers in F1 just seem to be there for the ride. I too would like to see less driver aids. What ever happened to the good old gear shifter? Another thing I would like to see is restricting how much money these teams can spend. It seem that the big buck teams are at the front and the budget teams are always sucking fumes. How about the "One engine one race rule"? Carl is that one of the changes to this year. You said that after quals the car gets locked up. Can they change engines? The best races of last season were when some of the big dogs at the front had a mis start and had to start from the rear of the pack. Then watching them come from the rear sliceing and diceing there way up to the front of the pack. YEA!! Well it should be fun to hear that V10 again. Next week!!!

The first one i believe is part of the venting system to the fuel tank. The vapors from the tank and the engine get circulated back into the air intake. The exposed nipple on the top goes to the air box (which it doesn't look like you have). The second picture I'm wondering myself. And the third is your voltage regulator. Wish I could help more. I'm sure someone here knows.:classic:

Those ABC guys really got to me.:sick: :sick:

Jerry, Thanks for the schedule. I can't wait for the season to start. This year I hope Rubens gives Michel a run for his money. I just hope this season is more exciting than last year. Ferrari can't stay on top forever (or can it).

Thanks, the head I have has already been milled .010" and it looks like it's going to need atleast another .020" to get it cleaned up. I was going to try to find another head in better condition but in case I can't I wanted to be ready for this one.

I thought the reason for shaving the top of the head was to maintain true allignment of the cam. If the top of the head is warped then cam tower allignment will off thus resulting in a cam that is binding. And speaking of shims where could you even get those things anymore? Do shims come in different thicknesses? And couldn't you compensate shaving the head by a thicker gasket?

I did it. Hooked up the compressor, installed the breaker in the fuse box and turned it on. No problems runs like a charm. Either I'm lucky or just good.:classic:

I looked at the way my dryer was hooked up and I'm copying it. I just can't see paying $50 bucks for someone to come out and do something that I feel I could do myself. If I paid to have stuff done all the time I wouldn't learn anything, and I'd be broke. I'll try anything atleast once. (Except licking my fingers to test the wiresLOL )

I'm trying to have a head (N42) rebuilt. I want to have the old seats replaced and have a 3 angle job on the valves. The machine shop said he would need to have the specs to do the job properly. Mainly he was concerned with the valve height, how much should the valve portrude at the top of the head and where do you measure it from? Also the maximum amount the head could be shaved before having to use shims on the cam tower. Can anybody help me here? Thanks

She's a beauty!!! If I had the money I'd get her. IMO she's worth it. A yellow Zed was my first Love. I saw here getting on the freeway in El Cajon, CA. and she looked just like this one. A year later I got my own.

I'm not sure but a machine shop should be able to tell you. I think they do some kind of sonic testing to measure the wall thickness and go from there. Wouldn't you rather get a L28 block and bore it?

Is it zinc or zinc chromate? Because zinc is kind of dull silver looking in color right? And most of the new bolts look kind of goldish/copperish. ??? Should I have the old rusted nuts & bolts plated? Or would it be better to just buy new ones. The ones that are really bad are the nuts that hold the rubber strip to the bumper.

O.K. Brian, You've got me rollingROFL . That was a good one!:classic:

My mistake, I meant phase. The specs say its a "single phase 240v".

I was looking at air compressors and was wondering what the difference is between "single stage & dual stage"? Is single stage 120v and dual stage 240v? When doing the wiring for it would the dual stage get connected like an electric dryer or range?

Next time hit your horn and make a funny face.

While taking apart my rear bumper I noticed most of the bolts were rusted pretty bad. Now the bumper is going to the platers to get a new finish. But what do I do with the bolts? If I plate those will I have to chase the threads? Or should I try and find new bolts that have some kind of plating already on them?

I don't know if it's a LHD thing, on mine it says "T E M P" along the top of the guage.

Thanks Guys, I think I'm gonna let the machine shop work on it.:classic: