Ed

If you are going to do more modifications in the future then a proper exhaust is your first step. Spend the money and buy a ceramic coated header. Or buy the naked manifold and have it high temp powder coated. If you don't protect it now a year from now you will wish you had. Painted headers often flake after a while and start to rust and look crappy. Once you get the headers intalled take it to a shop and have that custom exhaust built.

Hi, first off do you plan on doing any other modifications to your engine? Cam, ignition, carbs? If not I would suggest you keep your original cast iron exhaust manifold. Take it to a good performance exhaust shop where they use aluminized steel tubing and custom bend the entire exhaust. Go with a 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 maybe a resonator and you will be a happy camper. No need to fix something if it aint broke. Also, do a search around here on exhaust systems and you will find out that those pre-fabricated systems are not all they are made out to be. $.02

Bonzai sells new ones.

What do you want for your turn signal switch.

I just finished measuring from the wheel arch to the center of the hub. Front 13" Rear 13 1/2" give or take an 1/8. FWIW I have 195/70 14 front and 215/60 14 rear tires.

Go measure your car for us and tell us what springs you have.

Good point. When I get home I'll provide this measurement as well. What I'm trying to find out is if anyone has the same spring as I do and thus find out what kind they are. At the same time create some kind of reference so others can see which springs will do what.

I just measured my car. From the jack points on the framerails. Front = 5 1/4 Rear = 5 5/8. Reason I'm asking is because I'm trying to find out who made my springs. I only know that they are powdercoated blue with no other distinct markings.

My body work and paint took over 3 months. The body work was minor and the total amount of hours spent on the car was 140 (according to the bill). But I've learned to never expect anything when promised. I took some seats to get them done in leather. I dropped them off in December. Told the guy I'd be back in July to pick them up. Since then it's been, call me tomorrow. I'll have them done next week, I'm having trouble with this, that. Well it's Sept. 1st. and I still have no seats. I called him today and he said call tomorrow. If I only had a dollar discount everytime he said that. The seats would be free. Anyway, Sorry to hijack your thread. But i really do feel your pain.

keep the updates coming. I'm eagerly waiting to see the car finished. It's looking really good and I think it will be a bad arse car when done.

The only difference in the gasket sets that I can think of is the head gasket and the intake/exhaust manifold gasket. Everything else 240 or 280 should be identical. If installing headers it's recommended that you get the "special" MSA intake/exhaust manifold gasket. I have heard of others using a Felpro gasket with headers and have no problems. Then on the other side of the coin, I have installed the "special" gasket and developed a pin hole leak after about two years. Now I apply a little bit of high temp silicon and so far so good. Oh yea, the intake/exhaust manifold gasket is one piece no matter what brand.

The 3 bolt set up that the seller was refering to is the number of screws that hold down the bowl. Earlier 1970's models had the 4 screw set up and the later 71-72 had the 3 screw set up. On your 73 it would not matter. Don't know if you won the auction but what was being sold is a pretty nice set up and looks to be in good condition. Now you won't need to change the intake manifolds to install new carbs as the earlier carbs will bolt up to the 73 manifold. But if you want to clean things up a bit then use the earlier intake manifold and air cleaner.

Nice work. Where did you get the paint?

Another suggestion is to do it on a warm sunny day, or use a hair dryer to warm up the vinyl before you apply it. Make sure you slightly stretch to avoid any wrinkles.

Personally, First I would properly apply POR-15 to the bare metal. Once that is done you could use just about anything to protect it from the environment. Beware that rattle can rubberized undercoating is pourus (sp) so if that is all you use on bare metal you will have rust. Be smart and do it right the first time.

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I think they are all the same from 70-73. Look through the classifieds for someone parting out a car. Try Hybridz also. Call your local dismantlers (junkyards).

I'll be driving this: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=16805&cat=500&ppuser=1052

I haven't noticed the Ontario Z fest being mentioned anywhere around here so I figured I'd do some advertizing. August 26th near Hamilton, Ontario Canada. Who'Z going?

I don't get it. You have a nice car and your selling it. WHY don't you clean it before you take the pictures and make the car more presentable. Even though this car claims to have only 32k she looks more like 132K. Rode hard and put away wet. I'd like to see some better shots of the engine bay and the underneath area.

You can get reground Nissan rockers from Delta at about $3 each (excange). They can also regrind your cam. Once it's all installed you will have to check your wipe pattern on the rockers and adjust lash pad thickness accordingly. http://www.deltacam.com/

Take it to Z-fest and put a for sale sign on it.

My wife says maybe Sonny Rhodes. He sings a song by the title She's My Woman, and it's a song about a guy with a Cadillac Deville and how only his woman gives him a better ride.

Sent you a PM. Thanks