Ed

There are several free flow exhausts out there it's all what you prefer and off course $$. I'm using a flowmaster but that is just my preferance. Now the header, you probably won't notice any power gains just installing the headers by themselves. But ask anybody and they will tell you that if you plan on doing several modifications to your engine the place to start is with some headers and a free flowing exhaust. This allows the engine to breath better. After you have the exhaust done all the other mods will benefit from it. Just the exhaust will give you from 5-10 hp. not really noticable in street driving but it does make the car sound good. I do suggest that if you end up getting headers make sure you get the ones with the "Jet Hot" coating. They look good and keep your investment from rusting.

You asked quite a few questions but I'll answer one for you. You should be able to get an exhaust gasket from some auto supply store. If not give Motorsports in CA a call I'm sure they can hook you up. Do not run metal to metal you will end up with more leaks than you bargained for. The exhaust manifold always looks rusted, this is normal. Unless you have cracks in it, keep it. If it is warped then you can take it to a machine shop to have it checked & fixed. Also always replace ALL the studs & bolts. DON'T reuse the old ones as they get brittle with age and end up breaking (You can order these from Motorsports also). Headers are up to you if you have an extra 300 bucks. Get a nice 2 1/2 exhaust with a freeflowing muffler!:classic:

I see hours on an allignment rack tweaking out the suspension. Not to mention hours testing it on a track. I used to race R/C cars that had A arms simular to those and I would spend hours adjusting/testing/measuring & keeping notes. Eventually you would end up with kick arse set-ups depending on the type of track or weather conditions.

Does anyone know if there is a direct bolt on for a power steering upgrade or something that could work? I was interested in doing this if it's possible.

The reason your bits are getting dull is because you are using bits for soft steel (aluminium, tin etc.) When you purchase new bits go to a small hardware store ask the clerk for a bit that will cut hardened steel. They are more expensive but they won't dull. And like 2many said use a high quality easy-out. The cheap one's break. Good luck.

welcome to the club. Hopefully you can get all your answers here. I am not an expert on alternators but since the problem started with the alternator my guess would be maybe you have the wrong alternator or it was connected wrong. Hopefully you didn't fry a bunch of wires. Good luck.

I've had that same feeling at a stop light. The car next to me starts to move. I think that my car is rolling backwords.Wierd!

Don't waste your money on a cheap job. After 3-5 years all those rust spots will show up again and the paint will start to fade again. Do as much of the prep work as you dare this will reduce the amount of time the shop has to prep the car. Then spend the extra $$$ and get it done right!

It sounds worse than driving in the snow. Personally I wouldn't drive it. If it is a missing component on the suspension it would only be a matter of time before you loose complete control and cause an accident or worse get hurt. DON'T DRIVE IT! Get it checked out and fixed!

I heard that unless you plan on racing the adjustable shocks are a waste of money. And that the Tokico are of better quality (performance wise) if your car is lowered. I have Tokico and am very happy.

Even though you just changed the fuel filter check it. Compare it to a new one by blowing through it. After you blow out the fuel if it seems a bit restricted compared to a new one then what Kmack told you is your next step.

Judging by the shock and rotor in the lower left of the picture I'd say you put the engine in the passenger compartment. So where do you sit?

Do some looking around on other posts. You will quickly learn that a 280 engine is common practice. They look identical and are a direct bolt on along with the 5 sp tranny.

So let me get this straight. After the POR-15 has been properly applied to the under carrage (wheel wells, tranny tunnel etc..) that's it. Nothing else is required. The POR-15 will outlast the car.

I saw the PROUD owner of a 350 driving his new prize possesion in the snow just after they put salt on the roads. He must be one of those brain surgeons. Some people:stupid:

I notice you have your boy standing guard at the steps.

Don't forget to install new bump stops. That alone will take up 2 inches of travel.

Let us know where you are in CA. Then someone can suggest a Z shop. If you are sure you want to sell it then you will get alot more if it's running. A dead Z usually ends up as a parts car.

You could start out by taking off the drain plug on the back cover of the diff. If you have grinding then you should definately have metal chunks in there. After you drain the fluid stick a magnet or your pinkie in the hole and feel around. Good luck.

After you remove the undercoating. And after the marine clean, metal ready, and POR-15. Then what? Do you put new undercoating? What kind?

The inside's on your tranny are probably worn out (old and abused). There are several parts that could be worn causing it to pop out of gear. If you are going to have it rebuilt I guarantee you that fifth isn't the only gear that is going to need some work. I'm not sure if it would even be worth the trouble of rebuilding. Drain the fluid on the tranny and look at the plug. It has a magnet attached to it and should give you an indication of the metal shavings that have been floating around. Alot of shavings bad. Small metal chunks bad. By the way do you know who did the swap and did they change the fluid? There are alot of other trannys out there. My suggestion is to get another one. If you plan on being abusive then get a tranny out of a turbo model. I believe these were made alot tougher to handle the power of the turbo. You should be able to pick one up for 100-200 dollars. If you get one at a junk yard they usually give you a 30 day warranty. Which is plenty of time to find out if it is bad. Make sure you change the fluid. And before you take it home lay the tranny up side down pull the drain plug and inspect the magnet. Good luck Ed

Happy Thanksgiving guys, and Happy Holidays!

Use an "easy out". You can find them at most automotive stores. It's where you drill a small hole in the center of the stud then use a "screw" that has reverse threads on it. As you turn counter clockwise to loosen the stud the "screw" tightens. Be carefull and don't by a cheap one. The cheap one's tend to break thus leaving you between a rock an a hard place. Use some WD-40 to loosen the broken stud on the manifold. Good luck.

I remembered what Motorsports web site is: zcarparts Duhh!!:stupid:

Welcome, to the club! You will find alot of your answers if you use the "search" function. To answer some of your questions. A paint job can cost you from a couple of hundred, (Earl Scheib) quick cheap and wont last. Or you can spend up to 6,000 at a decent body shop. It all depends how long you plan on keeping the car and if you want to preserve it. Where are you located? One good source for parts on the west coast is Motorsports Auto. They specialize in Z parts. I can't remember their web site but I'm sure someone else can hook you up. Good luck