260DET

Eff off Dave, go play with your steamroller wheels

For the sake of pricing it, no bolt on bits at all, just the bare shell in very good condition. Floors have been pro repaired, eyerything else is excellent, straight, no rust. Need to sell it to gain space for the next project, not a fire sale but it has to go. So, whats it worth, to sell it I need a firm price?

Its interesting that the L series engine is said to tend to suffer from inadequate cam oiling without an external oiler in competition use. Because on later type engines such as the Nissan RB's and the Toyota equivalents the problem can often be excess overhead oiling which at least leads to a significant and perhaps crucial lowering of the sump oil level. So with those engines a restricter is often used to reduce the flow of oil to the valve gear. Given the availability now of superior synthetic oils I wonder if the old problem is still relevant. If it was me I'd use the best oil available, leave it stock and a keep a lookout for cam scuffing.

If the swaybar itself is wearing thats unusual and indicates something wrong. Assuming that the link bushes are fitted correctly, I'd be looking at the alignment of the links in relation to the bar. It also just possibly could have something to do with that large bar you are using, 1" = ~26mm, ~22mm would be better for a street car, increase the spring rates and get the best shocks you can afford if you want a better handling suspension

Ah the small world of the intraweb I know Simon who originated that mount idea and did a similar one for mine after he described what he did. It is fail safe and replaces entirely the stock mount but transmits a fair bit of noise and vibration.

The advantage of the drunk's one is that it is a bolt on job and adjustable, no mods required. Those other two, both clamshell types it looks like, do require fabrication etc but should work well. How is the rubber piece held in place with them though? I've never found a rubber glue that works reliably.

A friend of mine has a 300 rwhp S30 and uses one of those with excellent results. The only time you know its there as a passenger is during extreme accelearation when you may hear some muted bumps. The only thing is his does not have the flat ended rubbers, his are pointed and adjusted to just clear the diff casing. I'd definately use one

There are soft ones that spring back to shape after a moderate knock, imported from the US I think.

Interesting idea but be careful, flares for the Z30 are unique, see particularly how the front ones roll over the guard at the top, refer pic below.

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Gee you blokes are hard Would not be my favourite convertible conversion but its not too bad, for the right price of course The dash is a personal thing, my preference is the S130 dash over the S30. Some of the 'modern' features make it look a bit off, the wheels for example. As far as engine placement goes, from what view is available the distributor is close to the firewall, unlike most other cars the S30 does not need the engine hard back against the firewall to get good weight distribution. Unless its a fair bit heavier than the L series donk. But yeh, the money he is asking is ridiculous

Could have been Lee Faulkner's, he was a DNF, not sure about the colour though. Pink Z for sponsorship $, not a lot of that around if you drive a Datsun. IIRC the franchise owner of that donut brand is a keen motorsport enthusiast

A Skyline GT-R won the Modern class and outright defeating a multitude of Porsche's, in the very popular and highly competitive Classic class the Siddons/Copeland 240Z was second, pics below. Jon (Siddons) is a member of our club and an absolutely top driver http://www.targa.org.au/Targa_2005/images/gallery/2005_Event_Images/media/day4/hires/Targa%20day%204%20White_7847.jpg http://www.targa.org.au/Targa_2005/images/gallery/2005_Event_Images/media/day5/hires/Targa%20Classic%202nd_2345.jpg Link http://www.targa.org.au/Targa_2005/index.php

Have two racks and need to swap the side rod assembly from one to the other. The side rod assembly is the outer ball assembly that screws onto the rack itself at one end and also attaches to the tie (side) rod end.The racks are from a '71 and a '77. Straight bolt on or problems?

Hey don't knock the BeeGee's, who incidentially were victimised by some US radio station BeeGee's free day or something That all sounds quite grim though, here it is more likely that the rich boys who buy drives and then stuff up will cop the flak. The battlers are usually ignored, unless they do something spectacular.

Yeh, there are some modernised Zeds belonging to club members and some belong to old blokes EFI, twin cams and turbos rule :eek: Good run today, would have liked to have a better look at the Skyline but it didn't turn up at Luv a Coffee. Hope he didn't get lost

What Carl said ^

What speedyblue and halz said. There are a few US left handers that may be worthwhile bringing in though, eg a nice 280ZX turbo tin top coupe because we didn't get those. No big money to be made however, pm if serious.

Yeh, decent coupe bumpers are as rare as and will be several hundred $ each but most are at least dented and require rechroming. Which costs several hundred

The Sydney club deserve a big pat on the back for what they accomplished, a very well presented, organised and conducted event. Well done fellas Happy to have you Steven, just hope that the crank is OK.

Tomorrow morning, early, we are off on the 1200 km drive to Goulburn and the Nationals via the New England Highway Car is chock a block full, mainly with four R tyred wheels and I'm a bit nervous, an over active imagination at work not helped by a last minute coolant leak, hope its fixed, but really looking forward to the weekend. To all the others soon to be on their way, have a safe and enjoyable drive :cheeky:

It seems that compared with the US our cars get knocked around more and replaced less often with new. As most of us live near the coast our cars rust more too. Add all that together plus factor in a significant demand for certain older cars and you have higher prices. Does that all make sense?

$4000 for a set of Wannabees, you crazy fellows :tapemouth You can get brand new Panasports for ~$450 each in Oz, made to your specs too.

Ah, you have pinpointed the dilemma often faced when modifying - how far do I go and where do I stop? One mod leads to another, to another and so on BTW there is a fairly simple but not very big rear disc brake conversion using Aussie Skyline/Pintara rotors and calipers which does work quite well. Match that with a setup using twin or big single piston sliding calipers on the front.

Performance Challengers here, they look a lot better with a solid coloured center IMHO http://www.performwheels.com.au/classic.htm#classic