wheee!

Very nice. If you were closer.... and the dollar was stronger...

Good to hear you got it safe and sound!

The driver side quarter is by far the worst of the bodywork to do. Once I get it structurally close to factory, I will leave the final bodywork to the hi build phase. The fibreglas is just so much stronger for this kind of large fill work.

The roadster was only available in 2009 as a Z33. 2010 was the first year of the 370Z (Z34) Roadster.

I had a feeling this was a global issue. So many cars have no quarter panel ridge and I wasn't sure if people were ADDING it in when doing repairs or REMOVING it with repairs. Good to know it is SUPPOSED to be there. I will do my best to make a subtle ridge appear in the final work.

How far from the wheel well centre to the crease @7tooZ? Between the horizontal lines.

Wow! That clearly shows the line! Thank you for that pic!

I appreciate the pics! I have no reference as both my quarters were so badly welded/repaired. Either way, I wanted a centre reference line for the arc. In the end it may be more like yours grannyknot

Applied some fibreglas to the weld indents long the driver quarter. Not a pretty weld seam but I used a tape line to define the ridge location for sanding to. It was pulled before the fibreglas fully set, leaving me a guide line. Did some more fill work to the quarter while the position of the rotisserie was convenient. I will respray the bottom of the car this next week. Most likely just a seal coat of epoxy here as there is no real need for the hi-build under the car.

The last one, Z34, was from 2009 to present 370Z's. Do not include the 2009 350Z roadster stop gap model as it was badged as a Z33..

You could also use the thin 3M tape for mounting emblems etc. I have seen side skirts mounted with that stuff that have never moved at all, no moisture either. It can be removed with fishing line later if desired.

Single sided adhesive rubber foam tape. The kind you buy in a roll. That will seal the gap without a permanent adhesive.

Another few hours of patching and sanding inside the back valance. Seems I am obsessed with small details no one will ever see. Oh well! The back quarter received a fair amount of fibreglass to seal the OP's weld seams. Not a fun job considering how far out they are from true. Hate to add so much filler, but really no choice unless I cut new panels in complete.

The air flow meter has a black housing containing the electronics. If the butterfly doesn't move, no gas pump. You can artificially activate the pump by propping the butterfly open temporarily to see if that keeps the pump running. If not, it might have bad contact inside and need adjusting.

I believe the AFM needs to be active for the pump to run. It's a fuel shut off safety issue. No air flow, no fuel... The starting sequence allows a couple seconds of fuel to pump and start the engine, then air flow allows it to continue pumping.

Picked up a used oven this weekend. I will be using it along with the Carbon Fibre Quartz heat lamps to cure Powder Coat. The oven is more even heat for doing the Chrome coat. Finished up the inside of the wheel wells; just a little more work on the inside of the rear skirt area before I respray the bottom of the car in the DTM thinned down to a sealer coat. Then it will sit until the body colour goes on. I will wait for the rest of the suspension components are ordered and arrived before I do that I think. In the meantime, I will work on getting the rest of the body work started. Mostly just the weld seams and major issues will be done with the short hair fibreglass bondo. Once I get close to a finished line, I will apply regular bondo and Hi-build spray primer.

Wow. That must feel very satisfying to have come this far!

They look nice!

Bundle the wire and retainers as a kit. I'm sure you will sell quite a few! I'm in...

Can I just assume you only have one kidney now?

It is a great book, but I would love to see more references to the 280Z in the revised edition. About 90% is 240Z specific including pictures. I know I'm a minority, but more people are restoring the 280's now.

Spending a lot of time making the inner wheel wells smooth and pretty. Cleaning up the inner wheel well welds and making the rolled lips smooth on both sides. No one will know but me probably, but I like things done right.