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sfm6s524

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sfm6s524 last won the day on February 22

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About sfm6s524

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    Elk Grove, CA

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    1973 240Z HLS30-171564 Jul/73 1966 Mustang Convertible 1965 Sunbeam Tiger B9471532

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  1. Rear suspension is back together. Not sure how loose others leave the inner bushing brackets so they can be tightened with wheels on the ground, but I left about an 1/8" gap between brackets and frame. Spindle nuts are loose too. I guess I should start looking for an exhaust system, pretty rusty, saw a few small holes in the pipe. It has Nichira mufflers, looks like they're date coded Dec-84. Now onto the rear brakes.
  2. I modified an old screwdriver to help remove the broken off breather vent. Basically catch the top of the sideway holes and pull up. New 38352-78600 is $7 from dealer. Here's a pic of the TC mount clearance. Hard to believe the factory used a belt instead of something like this.
  3. I'm back from a trip to Wyoming, need to get moving on this. Got everything cleaned up, ready to bolt in. Mounted the differential so I could measure and cut the TC mount bushing. I tried a few sockets to stick between the mount and diff housing to get a measurement with about an 1/8" gap. Using new front lower mount. Then I busted that little plastic breather vent 😠, so I'm ordering another one of those from the dealer. New Koni's, Eibach springs, and axle bearings installed.
  4. Cleaned up the rear wheel wells with soap and a scrub brush, turned out pretty good. Dealing with the mustache bar now, to get the differential in place so I can adjust the bushing on the new TC front mount I bought. I've read a few mustache bar links here, pro's and cons of replacing the bushings, the nonexistent serrated rubber washers, etc. The bushings in mine seem good, not too hardened, so I don't want to replace with poly for now. The washers on the other hand, not so fortunate. While cleaning in my solvent tank some of the rubber nubs fell off, and a few were already missing.
  5. Okay, after checking the u-joints in the half shafts, I didn't feel any sloppiness, so I'm going to just leave them. They're marked NSK/Torrington/83 (year?)/Koyo/KC1819D, and they're probably better quality than what's available out there now. I think new kits have different thickness c-clips to get joints centered precisely, which I'm not setup to do (balancing). I ordered new Timken bearings (NSK) for my rear axles and was kind of disappointed in how they felt out the box. They just didn't feel as smooth as I expected, and after cleaning up the old Nachi bearings, the new ones didn't fe
  6. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20j/23-4190 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I was thinking of just changing the u-joints and boots. Hopefully the shafts will still be balanced afterwards. I did stamp the flanges to get it back in the same orientation. CV axles would be great, but pricey. Open to $uggestions….[emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. After seeing that rubber tension rod bushing split, even before driving the car, I ordered and installed the plastic/aluminum bearing kit and rubber bushings. Seems to be be a lot better design, and hopefully firm up the suspension and steering response. Finally got ahold of a decent stub axle and finished assembly of the new bearings and Koni struts. Now onto the other rear pieces… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Well, I’m kinda sure the axle would be okay, as suggested. The only stress would be an occasional 270° freeway onramp at a brisk speed. But I did buy another for $50 from a local club member anyway. At least I won’t be worried about seeing my tire and wheel rolling past me on the highway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. So, use the newer self locking nuts, maybe some blue (or red) thread locker, and torque to 150 Ft/Lbs to start, and see how it "feels?" Ken
  11. After a closer look at my right axle, it looks like the threads are squared off, damaged. I guess I need to round up another axle.
  12. Well, decided to change the rear hub bearings since I've got it tore down this far. Had a 6 foot piece of 1.5" x 3" tubing that I drilled a couple 3/8" holes and notched for the 27mm socket. Probably overkill. I think a 2 x 6 piece of wood with four 3/8" hanger bolts and a hole for the socket would have worked too. First, got the Dremel and removed the lip at each flat, and chiseled the lip away from the threads. This should hold it down. Ready to break them loose. Lug nuts on the studs to protect the threads. Then used the press to remove the bearings. N
  13. Brake drums were froze onto the stub axle. Luckily I had an old drum puller from an old stubborn Mustang. Soaked hub concentric with Kroil, tightened the puller a bit, then rapped on the drum center with a mallet to break loose. Now Im debating whether or not to replace the real axle bearings. Off the car I'm worried I might not be able to get the axle nuts loose. Bearings aren't bad, but they do make a tiny bit of noise on the bench. Probably the original bearings, and likely pretty dry. Looks like I also have a shorter wheel stud I need to replace. I test fit the rear struts
  14. Got the front done today. Bearings checked out okay, just repacked them and new seals on the rotors. Rotors look bad in picture, but they're not grooved. I did notice the forward right tension rod rubber bushing had a split in it, and I hadn't even torqued it down yet! Supplier is going to send me a new one. Hopefully it was just a bad one and not a sign of near future issues. Going to wait to tighten a few bolts after car is settled on the ground, LCA bolts, tension rod nuts. Then adjust the toe-in so I can at least drive it to the alignment shop. Now onto the rear...
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