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sfm6s524

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sfm6s524 last won the day on December 29 2017

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About sfm6s524

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    Sacramento, CA

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  1. Here’s a pic of one of the wiper blades I just got from ZCarDepot a few weeks ago. Not sure if the one laying above it is an original or not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Ok, April Fools isn’t for a couple months! Kidding, nice catch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. On a 71 240 Z I have, the piece that holds the sun visors in place that mounts beneath the rear view mirror, broke on the drivers side. It was pretty annoying having the visor flop around, and I finally took the visor off until I could locate a replacement part. Searched all over the place for another, no luck. Finally saw one on Etsy from a person who has a 3D printer named PlasticWiz, figured I'd give it a try. Removed my old one, which basically disintegrated while trying to pop it loose from the vinyl covered roof frame. Sanded the new ABS piece a bit and painted black. I suppose the "print lines" could be removed completely with a lot of work, but for this car I just wanted a functional piece. Here it is mounted ready to pop in the rear view mirror. I've never used a 3D printed part on any of my cars, but I must say this really did the trick for a difficult part to find. Anyway, just thought I'd post this since I couldn't find any recent help on this part. I may order another for my other Z just in case...
  4. No mention of it. I saw mixed info online using LocTite with Helicoils. Maybe for a frequently used bolt, but once the stud is there, it ain't moving. No benefit if you can save your threads the way you suggest. I didn't try running a M8 1.25 tap down it, I guess I should've tried first. If I were to do it again I'd probably use a Time-Sert instead. Looks like a better solution, but pricier.
  5. While removing the manifold studs on my rebuilt head to replace with new studs from MotorSports, the front one broke off below the head surface! The one that broke was already broken to where only a 1/4" worth of thread was usable, and I couldn't double-nut it, so it had to be replaced. The others came out okay after a good soaking with Kroil, a bit of heat, and double-nutting to loosen. But the front #1 exhaust wouldn't budge and broke while trying to remove with vice grips. Lucky for me the engine is on a stand, easier to work on. I figure I'd post some pics of the Helicoil job since I didn't see one around here, in case someone else has the "joy" of doing this in the future. I've done a few, but definitely not an expert. Feel free to add your thoughts or tips to the thread. Above shows broken stud. I've already center punched it to help get the drill bit centered. Here was my first choice, screw extractor and left handed drill bits. Tried 2 different sizes, no luck. Plus I'm always afraid the extractor will break off and make further drilling a real pain, so I didn't crank on them too hard. Since I already had the stock M8 1.25 stud kit, I opted for that size instead of going to a stouter 10M stud. Ordered a real Helicoil kit instead of cheaper knockoff. Kit includes some threaded inserts, a tap, and tool to install inserts into newly tapped hole. Didn't include the 21/64" drill bit, which I had. Carefully drill, keeping hole perpendicular to surface, and no deeper then existing hole, and centered. I started with 1/8" hole, 1/4", 5/16" then the final 21/64". Tap the hole, using oil to help get a clean cut. Work tap back and forth and remove a few times to clean out debris. Insert is threaded in using the tool. There's a little tang at the bottom of the insert that you break off after you get it in place. Done. Be sure to use anti sieze on the threads when installing new studs. I'm not sure how well this will hold up in the long run, and the repeated hot/cold cycles. I guess I'll find out.
  6. No issue, good title, but owner chose to pay minimal fees while not driven. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Saw this ad, which is within 20 minutes of me. Seller says it’s #399. Tempting... https://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/6376731957.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Looks to be a generic no-name brand provided by the machine shop. Have only used the rear main seal so far from kit. Don't have a warm and fuzzy feeling about using this head gasket, should probably just pick up a Fel-Pro head gasket. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. A question on the head gasket. There are 2 oil passage locations through the head, one up front, one in the middle. Shouldn't both locations on the head gasket have the copper sealing ring? Mine only has one on the front. Any head gasket preferences out there? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. While putting together my motor I'm trying to use the original factory finish for engine parts and fasteners. The following thread is great and covers most everything, but doesn't include all the bolts and plating types. For instance, what color is the timing marker? Has this info been consolidated somewhere? Pictures help, but nothing beats a list. Also, for the natural aluminum finish, what are folks using to preserve it? Or maybe nothing? Thanks, Ken
  12. Okay, got the sleeve on, thought I'd post a few pics. Put thin coat of silicone on inside of sleeve, and pressed it on. I suppose a mallet would have worked too if careful. Ready to go.
  13. Oh man!!! Looks like I got censored!
  14. I installed a rear seal on mine last week. Since the motor is on a stand being assembled, I put it on the crank before dropping it in. After installing the rear cap I noticed it was a bit ****-eyed in the seal bore. Looking at the distance from the block/cap chamfer edge to the seal was a little bit different from one side to the other. Less the a sixteenth of and an inch, but still visibly crooked. As said above, make sure it's square. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Jerry Prentice did all the machine work on mine. He's one of the few machine shops in the Sacramento area that knows Z motors. He's at Prentice Enterprises, 3663 Olmec Circle #8, Rancho Cordova, CA, 916-852-1957. Gary Cook, who vintage races a BRE 240Z, recommended Jerry. Gary also works on Z's at his Vintage Performance business (4631 Auburn Blvd, Sacramento). Non-related but just for kicks, here's Gary at the Laguna Seca Historics:
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