Mark Maras

Sounds like the hinge pins and bushings are worn. At least, that's where I'd start. Dorman hinge pin and bushing kit # 38397 (as I recall it's for a Chrysler) will bring your hinges back into proper alignment. The doors may need adjusting after the hinge rebuild but that will be a later decision. BTW, the bushings in the Dorman kit will work to firm up a sloppy shifter. Another thought, many have reported this problem, anywhere from having to slam the doors to not latching at all. Some have gone to Kia Sportage weatherstrip. Others have used heat (your choice) to soften the rubber, closing and latching the doors and letting them set but if your hinge bushings are worn you'll just chip more paint.

A few questions. Do the doors latch and if they do how far out are the doors from the body? Do they fit worse in the front or rear of the doors?

If you get an original air cleaner housing, be sure it includes the mounting hardware.

Unanimous. Find something else to work on unless you're like me and your obsessive curiosity won't let you rest until you know what went wrong the first time around. In that case, grab a service manual, and maybe a timing light and have another go at it. You only need to remove the two lower bolts to remove the dist. If you loosen the upper one you'll screw with the ignition timing. BTW, the dist. may be original but it's been upgraded. It no longer has points or a condenser .

I'd recommend contacting ZTherapy.com and order their "Just SUs" DVD. Lot's of info and tests you can do to improve the performance of the SUs. I would fill both carbs with 20w to the level indicated on the rear carb. Fire it up and see what it needs next.

They need oil to prevent going lean during acceleration. 20w is recommended but many use ATF. There is a small indentation on the stem! Wait a minute, just looked at your pic again. Are the oil height indentations on your stems the same? In the pic I can't tell. I'm wondering if that odd cap on the front carb is from a different SU?

@mattjcr240That strange looking top on the front carb looks like the screw cap turned upside down with the "jiggly bits" and stem removed. Matt, unscrew the black knob on top of the rear carb, pull it out of the carb and compare it to what? is installed in the front carb. Front and rear should look the same. Pics please.

My early 71 had a white blade, well, more of a cream color. I replaced it with a flex fan after the clutch locked up.

If fumes are still present drop some dry ice into the tank. When you can see the CO2 vapor coming out the filler, it's safe.

It is plug and play but not quite simple. Even if you drop the dist. back in and it aligns with the tang on the oil pump drive shaft, the base has to be in the exact location (rotation wise) to ensure the ignition timing is the same as before, assuming it was correct before. It's a good idea to check the ignition timing anytime the dist. has been removed and replaced.

Nice seats. Nice fabrication work too. Does this mean you have a spare set of original seats with heaters?

I'm a bit confused. If you can push the pedal down with little to no pressure, the problem is in the disengagement. Is that we're talking about? That is almost always a hydraulic problem. You mentioned the fluids had been topped off. Was it losing fluid or can you account for the previous loss? If either cylinder is leaking, the area under the cylinder boot will be wet. If the cylinders aren't leaking and the system has been bled properly then the release fork and ball would be the next place to look. I have seen pressed steel release forks crack at the edges and bend.

A happy birthday to Jai (redwing). See you in a few weeks.

This one sounds mechanical to me. If the problem was in the hydraulics the problem would be a clutch not disengaging (pedal down). Do you have any pedal pressure aside from the pedal return spring? Any engagement at all. Does the car move at all when the trans is in 1st and the clutch pedal is up?

I'm going to assume the best. I think he's enjoying his excellent running, SU fed, 280.

I believe you're referring to "Door slamming issue fixed - finally" by Madkaw. Post #44 has the profile dimensions.

I agree with checking the differential. I replaced my support and strap because of a clunk as you described. While you're under there wrestling with the differential looking for movement, check the u-joints too. There shouldn't be any movement in them.

Ditto on the CLR. I had one that took a 48 hour soak to get it clean. Worked perfect afterwards.

Kathy and I will be there. Registered and flight is booked. Can't wait to meet all of you.

PM sent

@SoCalJim I'm sure Jai would appreciate the spring. I'll PM her address to you. Thanks.

@SoCalJim Thanks @Redwing

Datsun did add an elec. fuel pump to the 73 and 74 Zs to try and alleviate fuel percolation and vapor lock problems with limited success. Regardless of the number or type of pumps the fuel pressure at the carbs needs to be somewhere in the 3.5 - 4 p.s.i. range. More pressure than that will force fuel past the float valves (needle and seat) and over fill the float chamber.

@Patcon Are those the specs for the clutch or brake spring?

@Patcon Thanks for the info. I'm thinking the easiest way to replace the clutch spring is to source one from a good hardware store.