Mark Maras

There is only a small percentage of the drivers out there that truly love to drive. For the rest, it's just another thing they have to do to get somewhere on time. In all fairness, they have never had a Z experience, "They" don't understand why on earth anyone would choose to drive and work on an old two-seater especially with a manual transmission. Well, OK, Maybe we're a little "eccentric", But the fact is, we love to drive. The solution to crappy drivers is stay as far away from them as possible and play a prophecy game. Try to guess what the hell they're going to do next. You'll be surprised how well it works. P.S. If you time them right, freeway on ramps can be a lot of fun. Mark in Portland

Welcome This such a great opportunity for you and your dad. You have found the best Z addiction site. Everyone has plenty of knowledge and encouragement to share. Keep us informed about the selection process and get your dad on here too. Many of us got our first Z experience back in the 70s and love to hear old Z related tales. Mark in Portland

I've got a set of DGVs at home. I'll look tonight and get back to you. Typically tightening the mixture screws will lean them out. Mark in Portland

Pull the brake pads, Assuming everything is dusty, dry and looking good, lightly sand the pads & discs using 220 or finer sandpaper in a tight circular motion, The idea is to remove the shiny glaze and make it look swirly. The auto-parts stores have a product in a tube that you squeeze onto the back of the pads, It reminded me of Tool Dip when I used it. I don't remember the name but there are probably many similar products out there. Good Luck Mark in Portland

Now that's a repair that I like. Nothing to tear down, just another good reason to go fast. I hope it continues to work for you. What brand brakes did you buy? It might help some of us to avoid the potential problem. Mark in Portland

Before you start on the weak electical. make sure that any add-on wiring is from a fused source. I almost lost a 1st. Gen. RX7 that started on fire in the driveway because of a lousy wiring job. I would start by cleaning all connections, both hot and ground. I found that this alone frequently will clear up the electrical gremlins that plague old cars. If that doesn't do it then go at it with your multi-meter and start checking voltage at the fuse block and follow the wire to it's destination. Anything that is dim is probably a poor connection. Mark in Portland

Hi bajcsi I'm not familiar with the item called a timesert. Assuming that it is a thread insert. I'm guessing that the insert is leaking between the insert and the head. If #3 is leaking and #3 was repaired, I think you will have to redo the thread repair or replace the head. Anyone else with an idea? Mark in Portland

When you're finished with the electrical, adjust the valves & go through the basic carb cleaning, testing & tuning procedures. If you're not experienced with SUs, don't be afraid of them. They are the simplest carb I've ever worked on & you'll love the feeling of accomplishment when you're done. A quick compression test will set your mind at ease if you think it could be internal problems. Don't get discouraged, we all started out this way, these are learning experiences. Mark in Portland.

I must admit, I got a little excited when I heard the name Weber, In truth, I love SUs. I've never seen any other carb or carbs that will run trouble free for decades. At least, that was my experiece with them. Anyone interested in the Weber DGVs? Mark in Portland

Years ago my fan clutch locked up on my 71. It sounded like an airplane prop and robbed the engine of a lot of horsepower. My solution at that time was a flex fan. I drove the car for close to twenty years with it on and had no issues with it. Not original but a good solution. I likely still have the original steel fan if anyone is interested. Also, I'm going to be dissasembling my early 71 if anyone needs parts. Dan is using my old ashtray in his project. Glad to see it going to a good home. Mark in Portland

I just recieved my new round top repair kits from ZTherapy. Thanks Pam, Bruce & Steve. After trying the standard jet adusting methods a few times, the piston would drop until that 1/32" from the bottom. I tried adjusting it dozens of times to free it up. The last turn of the wrench would always cause it to stick. I doubt that this is new but I haven't seen it in any forums. Everyone let me know why I shouldn't do this if it works so well. Method: Needle-set to height Install the spring and round top with damper rod removed Loosen the jet adjuster nut Install the jet Using the choke lever, not the linkage, carefully check the alignment of the choke linkage to the jet. Adjust if needed. Then install linkage. While lifting and dropping the piston repeatedly, slowly tighten the jet nut until the piston slows or stops. Loosen the nut a little and using a non invasive item such as a wooden spoon handle put it down the oil reservoir hole and rock the piston back and forth all directions. Tighten the nut a little and check piston drop. I got mine centered on the first try. Mark in Portland

Welcome Gearman50 As you will soon find out this is the best place to discuss all things Z. Please don't leave us in suspense, tell what you have and your plans for your Z. Mark in Portland

There must be some truth in that statement. I've never seen a Z with downdrafts, but I still have a set and I'm curious if anyone has used downdrafts and would like to hear their opinion. Performance is my main question. They may not be as good as sidedrafts but does anyone know for sure? Mark in Portland

Among the goodies that came with a 74 260 that I recently purchased are 2 down-draft carbs, air filters, twin manifolds and linkage. The carbs say Solex on the side but a reliable source says they are Weber DGVs. As you can tell, I know little about them. I hope some of you out there are willing to educate me. I'd like any info and opinions. I was told that one of them needs a power valve diaphram otherwise they both appear to be in good clean condition. Mark in Portland

Makes perfect sense. I got my kits from Z Therapy this weekend. When I compared needles, the factory early 71 needles were the long ones.[1/8"] The new needles[sM] from Z.T. were the same length as the ones I'm replacing. I'm betting that the old ones came from Z.T. too. The car lived 1 hour south of Salem. Anyway, it's time to learn how to get the nozzles centered so that I can hear this engine run.

Cables- Generic lawn mower cables will work just fine. If you don't like the looks of the spiral wound sheath use the outer sheath from a bicycle brake cable with the inner throttle cable from the lawn mower. The bicycle inner cable is wound and does not push and pull. Mark in Portland

Welcome to Z addiction central, Jay You've found the best club to ask about anything Z and recieve answers. Should you need parts I have an early 71 parts car that I'm about to start stripping of anything useable. Mark in Portland

Welcome Joe Solex-I'd liketo hear about your experience with the twin Solexes. I recently bought a project L26 that came with a set of them. When I showed them to Steve at Z Therapy he said they were DGV Webers. Steve, being an SU fan and dealer, didn't have many kind words to share about them. I'm going to put the L26 on the road with SUs, but since I have the DGVs, I'd like to hear anyone's impression of these that has experience with them. Mark in Portland

Talked to Bruce @ Z Therapy today. I decided to get kits from him. As he said " If you're getting new needles in the kits the old needle length doesn't matter anyway." I'm looking forward to viewing the SU DVD that comes with the kits. I drove my first Z for 22 years and fell in love with SUs. They were the most trouble free carbs I've ever seen. Keep-em clean and check the tuning when you get bored and want to hang out with the other love of your life. Mark in Portland

My early 71 carb needles are about an eighth of an inch longer than the needles that came in the round tops in my 260. Sorry, I don't the age of the short needle carbs. Mark in Portland, O

I'm cleaning up two round top carbs that came on a 2.8 engine in a 260 project car. Obviously they are not original to either. One carb has a damaged top, I took an original top and piston from a early 71 carb. Upon comparing the jet needle length I found the early 71 jet was about an eighth of an inch longer than the one that came off the car. Both needles are installed to the proper height. Were there different lenghth needles from the factory or am I dealing with a replacement? If it is a replacement what advantage do the short needles provide? Mark in Portland

Thanks I tried the Z store, so far haven't been able to reach them on website or E-Mail. Will keep trying. Mark

Does anyone out there know where to buy the rear sill replacement panel for a 240-260? Mine is beyond repair and needs to be replaced. Mark in Portland, Or.

That sounds like another excellent place to check. As I'm cleaning it, haven't started yet, I'm going to inspect all surfaces of the water jacket in the head and block. If I should find anything suspect, does anyone out there have any ideas or experience with testing methods to confirm damage or is this going to be obvious?

Thanks Guys I'll check the thermostat housing. I've considered condensation. I don't know much about the history of the engine, When I pulled the pan the oil was an emulsion with some separate water. The engine appears to only have 92,000 miles on it. Not even a ridge in the top of the cylinders. After checking everything I can, I'm going to pull the 75 engine out and reinstall the original 74 engine. I'm open to any and all suggestions on this project. Keep em coming. Thanks Mark