Carl Beck

Can you Post a picture of the bottom of the BMW seats? You might have to remove the original rails - and make a new mount for the original 240Z rails. Also, you will want mount the BMW seats as low as possible. This will provide room between the seat and steering wheel for your legs and entry/exit. good luck, Carl B.

The 72 Z listed above - has been sold. FWIW, Carl B.

A nice lady wrote me about a 72 Datsun 240Z that her husband had before he passed away. She would like to get it out of her garage and see it go to someone that needs the parts. The body shows a lot of typical rust in the lower sections... the car hasn't ran since the mid 80's. Nonetheless, based on the pictures she sent - it looks like there are a lot of good parts on a pretty stock example. http://dayton.craigslist.org/cto/2019811509.html The above URL works - but for some unknown reason, if you search Craigslist - the Ad. doesn't show up yet. If you are doing a refresh/restore - it is really helpful to have a good parts-car handy. Lots of nuts/bolts/washers that can be take off and sent out for re-plating, not to mention many valuable parts on the car. SU Carb's and intake manifold - - - $150.00 to $225.00 Rear Decklid - $150.00 Hood - $150.00 Original Radio - $75.00 to $150.00 The Z rubber floormats - $50.00 to $95.00 If the bumpers aren't rusted through from inside - $250.00 each Steering wheel - $75.00 Complete wiring harness - $95.00 Crack free dash - $450.00 to $650.00 Rust repair panels $75.00 for the pair Center console - $45.00 Stock Wheels - $35.00 each {$170.00} Red interior vinyl, door panels and seats ??? I told her at $795.00 it is a great deal for anyone in Ohio... If it was close to me I'd grab it.. FWIW, Carl B.

Agreed - if you had never seen one before - it would look totally modern today. Carl B.

A.C. line. The original piston compressor was replaced with the newer rotary style.. thus the removal of the air injection tube from the anti-backfire valve. #157 was never "restored" - only completly repainted in the mid 70's. The owner ran a high end body shop - and he repainted the car for his wife. Once it was done, she was afraid to drive it any longer - so it went into the Collection with something less than 30K miles {among many other amazing items}. I didn't believe that he ever changed the fuel lines.. turns out he didn't. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: I wouldn't either - and I didn't Well the third owner did... Made a few call's to track the hisory after it was sold... Randy said that he thought John Williams had changed them.. I stand corrected - at least on this one. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Walter: Yea Gad... over three years and you get it back 60% complete and missing $1800.00 in parts !!! This is really a shame, and it happens all too often. I would really like to see criminal fraud charges brought against these people. This is far worse than just bad business practices. I too bought my first Z in 1970 while in the USAF, for that matter I bought my second Z at the end of 71 while still in the USAF.. {Fairchild AFB}. Good luck getting your car completed... FWIW, Carl B.

If your R200 did not come with the mounting nuts/washers - you'll need them too. The R200 has larger mounting studs - so your R180 nuts/washers will not transfer. The washers and lock washers are important - as is the correct torque on the mounting nuts. FWIW, Carl B.

A friend of mine and his wife owned #157 since 1970..today another friend has the car. #157 came originally with Braided Fuel Lines. Still has its 69 dated spark plug wires as well. I'm pretty sure I have photo's of others as well..maybe some are more clear.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: I don't understand your question. You just told us what you have - "a 70 hatch with a Datsun badge on the lower left of the hatch." To be "stock" it should have the Datsun badge and the 240-Z script on the lower right of the hatch. FWIW, Carl B.

A couple of thoughts.... 1. I have a friend near Tampa that started out that way.. refreshing a few solid Z's... today I believe he has about 20 of them restored.... 2. Sell your son's T-Bird, and buy my wife's. 91 Super Coupe with less than 11K miles. $12K and he can drive it back to California.. Great project so far.... FWIW, Carl B.

Google 13257-21000 and see what shows up... FWIW, Carl B.

Before you do anything - change the PCV valve... that's the most usual cause of your symptoms, once the rings seat. 11810-E3000 Assy-Control Valve Crank Case Emission. FWIW, Carl B.

Where in Florida are you located?

If your really picky - you have to have a few test panels sprayed first.. then adjustments to the mix can be made before you spray the car. FWIW, Carl B.

Given the broader choice between a) buying the stroker kit and building that engine, building an L28 with 10:1 compression, c) buying an L28 built completely by Rebello. I'd spend the extra money on having Rebello do the complete engine build, including intake and tuning - then install that yourself. There is a large difference in performance between engines built by shops like Rebello - and engines built by people that rebuild two or three L series engines a year. Not to mention matching the intake system to the engine and fine tuning everything. FWIW, Carl B.

thanks Jon - I've updated the Post at #60.. Carl B.

Hi Rob: Are you looking to spend $4K on an engine, $6K, $8K??? Being specific about the budget helps greatly in narrowing down recommendations. Truth be told, for what he charges I'd be ordering a L6 Stroker from Rebello. It would be done right the first time and you'd be driving the car in a day to do the swap. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes. If the engine was replaced with a Factory New short block - the Dealer would have stamped a serial number on that block - usually with a different set of dies, that had a different font style. The Factory supplied Complete New L24 engines and they also supplied New L24 "short blocks". That would be an engine without a new head and without new exterior items like oil pump, water pump, front timing cover, etc. If a short block was needed/used the additional parts from the original engine were put on the new short block. Yes all exterior parts from either the E31 or P30 were interchangable. I would guess that would be quite possible. Here is a picture of the serial numbers stamped by the factory in a late 71 production 240Z. You can see that the factory font is the same as the earlier factory font. {the shape of the "0" and "6"} FWIW, Carl B.

Since the "6" and "0" aren't the same font... I'd say the block was not stamped at the Factory L24-3260 9901A 12/69 HLS30 00587 FWIW, Carl B.

Would it be possible to get a picture of that engine serial number? The font on the dies used to stamp it might give us a clue. New replacement blocks from Nissan - came into the Parts Department at the local Dealerships with no serial number - -- Quite possible the Dealership stamped the original engine serial number that was in the car, on the replacement... If that happened, the font on the dies used will most likely not perfectly match the factory dies. FWIW, Carl B.

If you are going to have significant head work done - in the end - either E31 or early E88 are the same. According to the guys on Bob Sharp's team - when I discussed this subject with them circa 1975/6: The E31 castings suffered micro cracks, usually around the exhaust valve seats. So you have to have any E31 inspected closely and carefully before you start pouring money into it. The E31 was a popular swap back in the day - only when one was just swapping heads. In that case, yes you could pick up a coupe tenths of a point in compression. The E88 was a better casting and did not suffer the micro cracking that the E31 did, the intake and exhaust port runners were also improved in the E88. Both BRE and BSR used the E88 after 72. Not that the E88 was so much better, but rather because that was the current head - as I said, both teams modified the heads so much that they bore little resemblance to stock anyway. FWIW, Carl B.

With the Mallory UniLite - you run two ballast resistors. One for the electronics in the distributor and another for the coil. If you are running the 280Z distributor, make sure you have the 280Z coil as well. The ballast resistor is there so that the ignition supplies 12v at the START position of the ignition switch - then reverts to 6v to RUN on the 240Z. If you run the 240Z coil without the resistor you'll soon cook it. FWIW, Carl B.

Bonzi Lon, ol'red70 - thanks guys, I put the info in the list a Post #60.. Carl B.

To Recap what we have so far in this thread..and update as we proceed... <pre> L24 107 E31 92124 FSM L24-2130 E31 9828G 10/69 HLS30-00032 Mike B L24-2396 E31 9901D 11/69 HLS30-00210 Mike B L24-2465 E31 9901F HLS30 00215 mdbrandy L24-2585 E31 9X04C 11/69 HLS30-00331 Mike B L24-3260 E31 9901A 12/69 HLS30-00587 Carl B L24-3652 E31 9X04F 01/70 HLS30-01590 Mike B L24-4375 E31 9Y01A 02/70 HLS30-01704 JonnyRock L24-004621 E31 0126C 01/70 ???? BonziLon L24-005562 E31 02121 03/70 HLS30-02156 Kats L24-005757 E31 0327B 04/70 HLS30-02725 ol'red70 L24-05778 E31 0320A 04/70 abas L24 010878 E31 0660K 07/70 HLS30-07715 Napa Bill L24-011821 08/70 HLS30-08323 daddz L24-026313 P30 1109A 01/71 HLS30-19867 zztom L24-027116 P30 1616L 01/71 HLS30-20419 AZ-240z L24 O27310 P30 01/71 HLS30-20390 deadflo L24-032875 P30 03/71 HLS30 25734 lonetreesteve L24-039190 P30 1408a 05/71 HLS30-31306 mlc240Z L24-123315 08/72 HLS30-98122 ChrisA </pre> FWIW Carl B.