Carl Beck

This article could stand to be updated, but for now it may give you a little background. Big Sam got a new owner a couple years ago AIR. I think it sold for something like $125K USD.. in a very depressed economy. Far less than Nick spent restoring it. http://zhome.com/History/BigSam.htm FWIW, Carl B.

The spring was there - to hold the Clutch Fork firmly against the adjustment nut on that rod, when the clutch pedal was let out. So that there was no residual pressure holding the throw-out bearing against the Clutch Pressure Plate fingers. {kind of like "riding the clutch"} Without the return spring - the rod sticking though the hole in the sheetmetal Clutch Fork - "can" get in a slight bind...and thus be prevented from releasing all the way. Most likely not a problem for a car driven infrequently or less than a few thousand miles per year.. So I doubt it would be a problem with the self adjusting slave. You will however have to manually check the clutch adjustment every few thousand miles to assure that there is no pressure on the Clutch Fork when there isn't supposed to be. Because the adjustable rod will prevent the new slave from actually being "self adjusting". You could make a little bracket out of 18 gauge sheetmetal. Drill a hole big enough to slip one of the bolts that holds the salve on - though one end. Then drill a small hole for the spring in the other end. You could almost use a Pop-Top Tab from a beer can - but you get the picture... FWIW, Carl B.

First thing I'd do is clean the contacts between the oil sending unit and the wiring harness. A little emery paper and clean them to bright shinny copper. Then make sure there is a good tight fit between them. Check to make sure the wires aren't frayed/broken etc. If that doesn't help - replace the oil pressure sending unit. FWIW, Carl B.

The clutch slaves for the 70/71 Z's had adjustible clutch push rods - they need the return springs. For 72 Nissan went to a self adjusting slave - and they do not need a return spring. I've never used the newer slaves on the older cars - so I don't know if it would be a future problem or not. Can't think of any reason it would be... FWIW, Carl B.

You might want to call George Davis - he has a few Z's of his own. He's a friend of Jeff M. and mine and runs a transport company out of Orlando. At least get a quote from him. So far everyone I've sent to him has been very happy with the serivce. 863-551-1880 Office 863-412-1566 Cell Tell him I said hello.. FWIW, Carl B.

Is the car an A/T? Carl

Agreed - As Diseazd said; "Have them clean the bock"... Means - make sure your Machine Shop can "hot tank" the block.{some smaller machine shops that do not do a lot of engine work do not have the facilities to do this properly} Hot Tanking cleans the water and oil passages out. Very important on older blocks as they build up corrosion and crud on the internal passages - which you can not get too. They will also check the bores for roundness and taper.. Depending on the mileage and the care the engine has had - you'll find that about 3 out of 10 L28's for street use at this point - should be rebored. FWIW, Carl B.

The seats in the Series I & 2 {70 and 71} 240Z's are slightly different than the Series III {72} seats. The Series I & 2 seats had thick foam pads supported by rubber webbing. That webbing ran under the tubular frame of the seat bottom. The Series III seats used steel springs, to support the foam pads which sit on top of a jute pad. The foam then sits on top of that. The springs sit slightly higher up in the tubular frame of the seat bottom as well. There is no reason - that if you get the foam pads - which are made for the Series I & 2 cars - that the foam pads couldn't be made slightly "thinner" {less high} for proper fit in the Series III & IV {72 & 73 } cars. Order the stuff from Banzi - seat upholstery & foam pads - take your seats to a good auto upholstery shop - and have them take the seats apart. Then compare the thickness of the original pads to the replacement foam. If necessary they can trim the new pads. Ask the upholstery shop to call you when they have the seats taken completely apart. You may find rust staring to form on the metal parts. You may want to sand them down or wire brush the metal parts - then prime and repaint - before you have the new upholstery put back on. Around here most auto upholstery shops charge between $75.00 and $100.00 per seat to install your foam and upholstery. You can do it yourself - but it is hard to get them on without a bunch of wrinkles if you don't have a Steam Machine to work the vinyl. FWIW, Carl B.

08131-06510 Bolt-Fixing T/M to Engine 1 each 08131-06010 Bolt-Fixign T/M to Engine 3 each 08915-24010 Washer-Lock Fixing T/M to Engine 4 each Starter To Bell housing 08121-04510 Bolt-Hex M10x1.5 x 45 09121-03528 Bolt-Hex M10x1.5 x 35 08915-24010 Washer Spring 10 - 2 each 08915-44010 Washer Plain 10 - - 2 each FWIW, Carl B.

Time for an update on this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread29498.html Did Katy get ahold of you? {the young lady that sold you her Grandmother's Z} Carl

Glad to help in any way I can - however I really know very little about the Z31's. Might be able to get you with someone that does. Feel free to drop me an E-Mail: beck@becksystems.com At Post #72 were you asking if Gus was going to be at a meet at Lake Worth May 20?? Carl B.

For anything other than showing the car in "STOCK" class - I'd stick with the S.U.'s. There are good reasons most people took the Flat Tops off. FWIW, Carl B.

There was no expansion tank - but there should be a hose from the radiator overflow nipple over to the side of the radiator and down to the bottom. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: OK - clear enough. I guess I can't answer your question. I've never removed a tank with any intention of saving the old filler neck. Most of the time the reason for removing the tank was to replace a cracked filler neck to begin with - and other times if I had to remove the tank for some reason I intended to replace the filler neck while I was at it anyway. Because as they age they get brittle - then crack. FWIW, Carl B.

$47,100.00 and the reserve is not meet. Wonder how high someone would go? Fully restored to correct spec.'s they can bring $125K to $175K depending on who is present at Auction. It would take $80K to $100K to have it restored.. Maybe someone that can do most of the needed work themselves will pay more than $50K for it... as is... FWIW, Carl B.

I did not need an adaptor - I used two ballets resistors on my 72 240Z. Don't know what else you would need for a 280Z. See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/MalloryDist.htm FWIW, Carl B.

THANK-YOU, THANK-YOU, THANK-YOU Kris!! How you found that I do not know. According to the salesman there it is actually their web site mostly for company use - they don't promote it in their advertising!! Anyway I have two on the way!! At $109.00 they are very reasonably priced as well... Glad I delayed putting the heater back together this week :-) FWIW, Carl B.

I believe that Mike had the door jamb and engine compartment data tags reproduced for 70-72 for the Vintage Z Program. I doubt he did any for the 280Z's. Looking at the Parts Catalog, I see engine compartment data tags listed for the 280Z - but no door jamb data tags. Nonetheless it wouldn't hurt to call Mike... you never know..

I have never tried to remove one - - but given it is shown as a replaceable part - it most likely would unscrew if you heated it up and put a pipe wrench on it. FWIW, Carl B.

I don't see anything in your first Post - that states you cut the filler tube in the first place? The only way to change the filler tube is to drop the tank down. I don't understand what you are asking... FWIW, Carl B.

No dilema - - if you are "restoring" it - put it back to the condition it was in when originally produced. Vacuum plate it. Also give us the guy's name in Madison. And go see if he wants to do your tail lights as well!! good luck, Carl B.

Hi Guys: Looking at my personal tracking list - where over the years I've recorded every Datsun 240's VIN and Engine number if possible {most of which are not on the public register because the owners didn't want them listed publicly} - I see lots of oddities in reported build dates during the 04 to 06 1972 period. I can't explain it - but VIN's ordered sequentially during the 3 month period - show up with production dates mixed between 04, 05 and 06 of 72. A few of them are 240Z's that were sold new in Columbia, South America. Based on both the Original Engine Serial Number - and VIN - I'd say that John's Z would most likely have had an 06/72 Date Of Mfg. Even if the publicaly registered cars would lead one to see it differently. I believe you can still get a replacement for the Door Jamb Data Tag from Banzai Motorworks http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catDecals.php Part ID-05 Late 72 - - but you better ask Mike where "Early" ends and "Late" starts... You may have to FAX him a copy of your Title as well.

Agreed - compressing it enough to make the fender fit properly might be a problem. The original close cell foam was a little less than 1/2" thick - -- Hard to tell how firm or soft that rubber seal is from a picture.

How much was he asking?? Looks super clean for the year and mileage.

With the Nissan Comp. FIA 4 piston {Sumo Mk-65's as I recall} calipers and vented rotors - there are matching larger dia. rear wheel cylinders as well. That's the set up on the BRE Baja Z - and it uses a 1973 style prop valve and booster. Really great feeling brakes.