Carl Beck

Hi Walter: I've been down that road. I'm still not sure where it ends.. and I really don't care. I simply make sure that as I'm going along, I enjoy every step to it's fullest. Getting done, is never my goal... enjoying the process is. I bought my White 72 and stored it for four years, before starting the "refresh"... Once I started on it, it took about a year to get it back on the road. AIR that all started about 8 years ago. When I say it took a year - keep in mind that I was retired by then... so I had pretty much full time to devote to the project. I've been working on my current project for about 2 1/2 years now... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Steve (everyone): Given your description, if it was in my area, and if I had the room to store it... I'd go grab it at $1,500.00 or anything less if possible. I'd bet that at this point, if you showed up in person with $900.00 CASH in your hand - the seller would let you drag it out of there. (for that matter at $1K or less I'd grab it even if I didn't have the room to store it;-) As you said - it is restorable... low VIN, matching numbers, all data tags. It's getting very hard to find a restorable Series I car - almost regardless of condition for anything less than $3,500.00. Almost without exception now - all the Series I and II Z's you'll find under $5K will need floorboard replaced. If you wanted to do a full refresh or restore - starting with a bare body shell - it would be hard to find a lower buy in point. I'd strip it down to bare metal and put it in epoxy primer, to stop all rust from progressing first thing ... then store it for later. But I wouldn't attempt to store it without first stopping the rust. In the mean time, I'd be gathering all the parts needed to "refresh" or "restore" it. FWIW: Carl B.

Hi Carl: Your description is enough to tell me that its the schematic... no need to do the scan. I was hoping that someone had developed a color coded wiring diagram - that would show us non Electrical Types what wires run through what wiring harnesses and to what connectors they terminate.... the physical layout we deal with in the real world. thanks for the response Carl B.

Agreed.. if the car is as described it should have a base price of $7,500.00. Anyone know if Gary is doing well or not? Carl B.

Hi Chuck: The electric fuel pump was installed on the early 73 240-Z's as part of Nissan's attempt to resolve starting and running problems, mostly caused by the manor in which they meet the 1973 Emissions Standards. Higher combustion chamber temps., the flat top carb.'s and changes to engine ignition timing. The Dealers installed various "Kits " of items in Stages.. depending on how bad the problems were. (it wasn't an option so much as an attempt to get the cars to start and run). The problems with the fuel system were percolation, vapor lock and vacuum break. Past a certain time, Nissan starting including the electric fuel pumps at the factory on all 73's. In either case, Dealer Service Installation or Factory the existing wiring in the wiring harness was used to power the pump. You found the wires back by the tank. In your 72 there are two wires with female spade connectors in the wire bundle that is to the right side of the dash/center console interface. You have to make a jumper wire with two male spade connectors to join the two female spade connectors together. That will send power to the pump. In your 73 there should be two relays, bolted to a large relay bracket just above your feet on the right side kick panel. One relay powers the second relay that controls the power to the fuel pump. See: http://zhome.com/Dropbox/73FuelPumpRelaySm.jpg You can copy/download the image and blow it up If someone has changed out the carb,'s on your 73 - to the earlier SU's and car runs fine with the mechanical fuel pump - I see no reason to hook up the electric fuel pump. If your car still has the original Flat Tops... then the electric fuel pump will help a lot with hot starting and running on warmer days. In either case I would trace and remove the jumper wire someone else installed... you'll wind up with a short or floating ground you don't need... Hope that helps... Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Blaine: That car is at least $2K under the current market ... lots and lots of work already done - and most likely done correctly (I happen to know John)... A Series I car at that... for $6,850.00 it's a bargain... I'd find a way to go get it. This one is ready to go - as a daily driver, with the possibility of doing a full restore in the future... Clutch, tires, wheels, suspension, etc etc all done... heck you'd be paying $1,500.00 for the car...! and saving all that time... just paying for the a fraction of the parts/labor you'd put into another $5K car.. If that ad has been there for very long - it's most likely sold already. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Blaine: I think your not too far off. As long as you realize that is most likely just the starting point. For the most part, if you look far and wide, you can still find a good 240-Z in the $5K to $6K range. It will be good for weekend short trips around town and it will look pretty good from 10 feet.... If you are real lucky it will be "mostly" rust free... meaning the frame rails and area under the battery will be solid... and it might have just a few small rust holes in the floorboards upon close inspection (once you remove the tar mat). Then over the next few months, you fall in love with the car, and decide to fix a few things, do a little maintenance etc..(we've all been there..or are still there now). The $6K car needs (well it could use) a new set of tires and when you install them, you find the front end still shakes at 65mph... so new shocks, ball joints come next. You notice that the brakes could use some attention because the Master Cylinder just started leaking... or the clutch Master / Slave finally gives out (now that it's being driven often)... That exhaust smell has to be fixed..so new weatherstrips/seals in the deck lid and around the tail lights etc. Now we're cruse'n... and darn the clutch is slipping badly... new clutch... At this point you are five to six months down the road.. you've spent eight to ten weekends on various fun projects like changing the clutch and shocks etc... and although the engine had been rebuilt by the PO... the carb's have throttle shafts that are leaking and it's all but impossible to tune the car out perfectly... nothing a rebuilt set won't cure.... need to change all the rubber fuel lines as well... might as well do the belts... OK - so $6K for the car plus another $3K to $5K for the needed service (depends on how much time you have to do the service yourself, or how much your local Z Shop will charge for some items.).. You can usually buy the cars outlined above - that the PO how has $11K to $14K and a lot of personal work in - for around $8K to $9K. Might be a bit less West of the Mississippi.... The PO's will have extensive documentation / service bills / parts bills etc - and they will have done all this work within the last three years... Personally, I'd spend the $8K to $9K today if I found the car that had been recently gone though... You are time and money ahead at that point.. the drive the car across the State or across country... and start thinking about "refreshing" the paint and body work ;-) FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Gang: My wife Vicki, my Daughter Mary Alice and I had attended the Concours Event in Winter Park, Florida this past weekend. It was a real pleasure to finally meet Bob in person along with his wife Sherry. Also got to look Bob's beautiful 240-Z over and admire his work. The Event should be on everyone's "Do Not Miss" list of Events. It was a beautiful setting, lots and lots of wonderful Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Automobiles all in Concours Condition. The shops and restaurants along Park St. were all open on Sunday, so lots of places for the girls to shop while you enjoy the cars. Lots of places with food and drink - all very reasonable priced. (a bottle of water, all but frozen was a Buck!!... no price gouging there at all!!). Next year, I'll make arrangements for the girls to simply meet me back at the car when they are done shopping at the end of the show. I could have stood there talking with Bob, meet more of the Z Car Community and had a much better time... plus the girls would have enjoyed shopping more without me... Live and learn. I had reported that Bob took 1st In Class with his 240-Z - Way To GO! Pictured below are Bob with his wife Sherry and the second love of his life... the DATSUN 240-Z. Thanks to Jim Clark for taking the pictures... I forgot my camera...da... FWIW, Carl

Hi Bob: Man is that screwed up or what... I pasted the wrong words in the wrong place... That is just too funny... I'll try it again... Carl B.

How much do you think a good solid driver should sell for? What are you willing to pay for one today? Carl B.

Hi Matt: I don't know why you would think it "has to be" factory. You could be right, but I've never seen the factory mount the anti-sway bar to the rear of the differential in a 240-Z. Even if it was purchased in and shipped from Okinawa in 1970 - it is a Left Hand Drive model - right? Most of the guys in the Air Force did purchase US Spec. 240-Z's in Okinawa, so that they could be legally shipped home after their tour of duty there. The VIN is HLS30 xxxxx isn't it? If the anti-sway bar goes around the rear of the diff. and mounts to the transverse link mounts... it is more than likely the BRE after-market type. You can use just the Suspension Techniques sway bar bushing kit - to replace the originals. If you need new hardware as well - Suspension Techniques has one with the same length bolts, but a center spacer that is just about 1/2" longer than the original BRE kit - but it's easy to cut the center spacer down to the correct size... FWIW, Carl B. USAF 1969-1973 Clearwater, FL USA

Hi Matt: I don't know why you would think it "has to be" factory. You could be right, but I've never seen the factory mount the anti-sway bar to the rear of the differential in a 240-Z. Even if it was purchased in and shipped from Okinawa in 1970 - it is a Left Hand Drive model - right? Most of the guys in the Air Force did purchase US Spec. 240-Z's in Okinawa, so that they could be legally shipped home after their tour of duty there. The VIN is HLS30 xxxxx isn't it? If the anti-sway bar goes around the rear of the diff. and mounts to the transverse link mounts... it is more than likely the BRE after-market type. You can use just the Suspension Techniques sway bar bushing kit - to replace the originals. If you need new hardware as well - Suspension Techniques has a kit with the same length bolts, but a center spacer that is just about 1/2" longer than the original BRE kit - but it's easy to cut the center spacer down to the correct size... FWIW, Carl B. USAF 1969-1973 Clearwater, FL USA

Is it actually a "wiring diagram" or a "wiring schematic" ? A wiring diagram would show where the individual wires are routed in the car - a schematic shows electrical logic (not physical position) Could you provide a peek of the one you purchased for us? thanks, Carl B.

TSO72-102 From 8mm to 9mm rod bolts: Starting at Engine Serial Number: L24-096181 Found in 240-Z's produced from 04/72 around HLS30 77xxx The rod bolt distance - measurement center to center - changed from 62mm to 63mm. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL http://ZHome.com

I sent the following note to the seller.. be interesting to see what response I get if any. - - - - Hello: This is just an FYI - so that you don't look like your BS's and so that you look like you know what your talking about... Almost everyone in the Z Car community has seen several 10th AE's with less than one thousand miles on them. While 8.5K is certainly on the low end of what is typically on these cars.. it's far from exceptional as far as mileage goes. Many of them can be found at Z Car Shows with 8 to 15K miles across the country. I'd expect to get bids in the $15K to $18K range on this one..but I'm afraid that Private Listings of bidders will hold serious buyers out of this auction....I wish you good luck with the auction. Carl Beck, President Internet Z Car Club Clearwater, FL beck at becksystems.com - - - - - - - - -

Hi Neil: For the most part, natural nor synthetic lubricants don't really "wear out" when used in your engine (that's one reason they can be reprocesses and reused). What mainly happens is they become "saturated" with containments. Dust particles from the atmosphere drawn in through the intake, gasoline washed off cylinder walls, carbon particles from the combustion process, as well as other caustic chemicals etc. So which oil is best and how often you change it and the filter - depends a lot on your use of the car, how clean you keep the intake air, having your carb.'s properly tuned and feeding the correct A/F mix to the engine, the condition and performance of the ignition system etc. etc. etc. Mike mentioned the fact that todays oils are most likely better than when the Z's were new... and I don't think there is much doubt of that. The question is "better in what regard"?. They are far better in their ability to suspend, and surround the above mentioned particles of the containments. This keeps these containments from attaching themselves to the internal parts of your engine (ie varnish, sludge etc), as well as providing greater capacity to suspend them, without diluting the lubricant to the point of ineffectiveness. For examle: Lets say that I keep my stock 72 240-Z in tip-top shape... the air here in Florida is among the cleanest in America. The car is used 99% for freeway and highway driving with very little in town use. I use OEM Oil Filters... with Mobile 1 - so 6,000 mile oil & Filter changes are all that's needed. I peeked inside the engine at 70K miles... everything is as brand new. Dropped the oil pan, and not a hint of sludge build up. NONE AT ALL. Back in the 80's I ran Castol Oil in my other 72 and changed it every 3K miles.. dropped the pan at 35K miles and the sludge buildup was unbelievable.. 1/4 inch of crud hardened in the bottom of the pan! Then I switched to running Valvolene Racing Oil... far less sludge in the pan at 80K miles... but still a bit... Mobile 1 leaves the pan and entire engine clean as a pin. The main reason I now run Mobil 1 is that it drops normal engine operating temperatures by 10-15 degrees F. Heat is always a major factor here in sunny Florida... As these L series engines age.. and they are now at least 33 years old (the L24's anyway)... the cooling passages inside the cast iron blocks build up calcium/rust etc.. this makes heat transfer from the block to the coolant less efficient.. and changing to Mobil 1 simply allows less friction to begin with which helps off-set the effects of the aging block... So the bottom line is - what's best for you depends on a lot of factors that you'll have to consider ... If you don't have an over heating problem, and you have clean air and air filters... your Z in in Fine Tune... you are most likely wasting some money on Mobil 1 changes at 2,500 miles. If your car is always running rich mixtures, the choke is on 50% of the time to warm the car up, your car needs tuning.... maybe 2,500 mile natural oil changes are what's needed... BTW - since 1970 I've seen what must be over a hundred L series engines torn down. Almost regardless of the amount of sludge and varnish in these engines - the rings and bearings seem to last way past 250K miles before they actually wear out. On high mileage engines, which have not had the best of care - it's the cam and rockers that go south first.. So keeping the lubricant passages that feed oil to the valve train is most likely the key to long engine life... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Walter (everyone) Check it again.. the link was bringing up an older file... I think you'll see three or four names you'll recognize.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jim: I can see how you might get that impression from that picture today. However in 1970 there were no cartridges for the US 240-Z's. If you look at the caption it say's "Removing piston rod and cylinder assembly". It is significant to note that it does not say "Removing Shock Absorber Cartridge". If the man in that picture slid his hand upwards.. he could remove the collar shown above his hand - and thus separate the piston rod from the cylinder (not recommended). If you were to see the bottom of that assembly, you would see that it is "open". That is because the damper oil enters there. The oil surrounding the cylinder in the strut, is the the same as the oil in the cylinder (one continual pool of damping oil). That is why the type and exact amount of oil you put back in after service, has a direct effect on the damping power (Note at instruction #3 on FA14). Please note instruction #9 on page FA13. "Drain damping oil from the cylinder and strut outer casing into a clean container". I point this out to indicate that this assembly (piston and cylinder) could be rebuilt... rather than replaced, via the use of a rebuild seal kit. I had the shocks on my 70 rebuilt several times by my Datsun Dealer - under warranty. (HLS30 01777). Later - and I'm not sure just went - Nissan did supply a "cartridge" to replace the original assembly. The cartridge type could not be disassembled nor rebuilt - as the original assembly was. The cartridge is a sealed unit, which does not share the same oil pool - as the oil surrounding it in the strut. Maybe someone still has an original shock assembly, that they can provide some clear pictures of - disassembled. FWIW, Carl B.

Nick - now that you have made yourself look like a complete idiot... perhaps you could redeem yourself somewhat - with a proper and sincere apology to our guest from Bahrain. (unless you can communicate in perfect Arabic yourself). I'm sure you just didn't notice his location... kind regards, Carl B.

Hi Marty: The rear end was set back 35mm or 1.37 inch for the Series III cars (1972 Model Year). If you set your rear end back, or if you install an R200 you'll need the longer drive shaft. You may be getting a clunk where you had none before - because that L28 is a huge increase in low end torque... Check the torque on the bolts, that are on the studs that mount the rear end to the mustache bar. The re-torque the nuts that mount the mustache bar to the subframe. If either of these are slightly loose.. you'll hear the rear end move... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mark: I am "older" and I still can't relate much to it!! I look in the mirror and wonder "what the hell happened?" "Where did all this loose skin on my face and neck come from?".... then I look at lower parts of my body and I have an idea of where it came from ;-) It's a small world.... Way off topic, but this seems to be an underlying decision driver.... so I'll add some more personal data - that will most likely be of interest only to you... My father died when I was 11 and he was 48, his brother had passed away at 38... his mother was 49... Actually no one in my family lived past the age of 55 (going back to 1303).... until my older brother made it to 60!! (and died from a heart attack the following month) A new record in the "Beck" family!! All died of coronary or cardiovascular problems... I am now the Record Holder... 61!! So I understand your thinking and feelings on this matter... I retired at 55 thinking that I would be lucky to make it to 60. I can only say that life has a way of working out almost always - at odds with the best of our plans... I'm still here only because of the miracles of modern medicine. Just take good care of your health - or make sure you get good health care. Actually the best advice is to do both. As someone else said; "if I knew I would live this long, I'd have taken better care of this body!" As Mr. K say's at age 96... "Enjoy The Ride" You and I know he isn't referring to the car... regards, Carl B.

For 70/71 240-Z KONI Adjustable Front Shock Absorbers #35-1410 (BRE Part Number)....$43.00 ea KONI Adjustable Rear Shock Absorbers #35-1411 As of 2-1-72 no KONI's were yet available for the 72 Model Year. FACTORY 240-Z Racing Suspension Kit #35-1510 Special struts, springs shocks, front and rear anti-roll bars combine to turn your 240-Z into a real handler. Factory designed for minimum installation effort. $552.10 for the kit FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mark: I hate to tell you, but you'll be saying the same thing at 50 and 60.... Mentally, you don't grow old, you mature and retain the solid values your life's experiences have forged. For the most part you'll still lust after the same things you did when you were 35 or 40.... The sad part is that many of those "things" won't go out with men that look like their Grandfather (unless a great deal of money changes hands:-). If you had told me when I was 45 - that I'd be re-married and having kids again at 50 - I'd have told you that you were nuts!!... Thank God we don't get what we ask for... Now in addition to a son 36, a second son 33, I have a daughter 12 years old and the most wonderful wife any man could ask for. You will find that the time between 40 and 50 years of age - shoots by before you know it. That however is nothing compared to the time flying by at hyper-speed, between 50 and 60 years of age. Ah to be a kid at 40 again.... and know what I know now.... BTW - cdavid is right - it sounds like Burt - cdavid's advice is solid... ignore Burt. If anything, pity him, he must have a very sad existence. Also, just FYI - his car with 14K miles was a Series II example not a Series I. kind regards, Carl B.

I installed a 4.11 in the early 70's when I was running an L24... and auto-crossing on the weekends. Around 1980 I swapped in an L28 with the 5spd.... Given the far greater torque of the L28... I'd rather have the 3.9 or even the 3.7... the L28 has the torque to easily pull the taller gears... Your better option for a "daily ride" would be the 3.9... For performance it depends on how strong your engine is at lower RPM's... Carl B.

Hi Bob/ mmagnus: My unsolicited comments: Bob: 1. The difference between 50 and 60 is the fact that some of your most beloved toys don't work like they used to..<vbg>. mmagnus: 2. I like the process of rebuilding, refreshing and/or restoring 240-Z's. I can understand why one would sell a car once it's completed... It's time to get something else to work on. 3. In the picture below.. of the V12 Jag, the V12 Ferrari and the 240-Z - which one stayed while the others were sold...? I had my Ferrari and I hope you get to have yours... but I'd respectfully suggest that you hang on to your Z for at least a year after your 911 or Ferrari.... then decide which to keep. From personal experience, I know that I can rationalize almost anything I want - I'd suggest that you finance the 911 or Ferrari fully, for at least the first year, so you can keep your Z. Then at the end of that year - decide which to resell. You'll have 12 payments at a higher rate... and if you decide to sell the Z it will be worth more next year anyway - and you can pay down the loan on the 911/Ferrari at that point if you decide to keep the new car... I'm betting you'll keep the Z at the end of that first year. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com