Carl Beck

Hello Everyone: The following note is from Gayle Brock, Peter's wife: I forward it to you with her permission. Carl B. Gayle writes: "Sat January 20th, while shooting SCORE’s season opening off-road race in Laughlin, NV, Peter was hit by an off-road vehicle that went off course. The upper part of his right leg was hit by the front tire of the vehicle, he did a 360 degree backward flip landing face down in the dirt and his right foot/ankle were then run over by the vehicle’s rear tire. Other photographers in the area and the SCORE rescue team were onsite within seconds. Thanks to help from Mark Post of the Riviera team and a recommendation from the Herbst family of the Terrible Herbst team, Peter was taken by helicopter from the regional medical center to the well-respected trauma center at the UMC (University Medical Center) in Las Vegas. His injuries involve primarily that right leg with a broken femur a couple of inches below the ball and socket of the hip, a break in the tibia just below the knee and a broken lower fibula and ankle. Surgery from 1am-4am Sunday involved placing a rod down the length of his femur and installing a plate with screws to reconstruct his lower leg and ankle area. This is capped off with a cast from his foot up to just below his knee. The surgeons are very happy with how everything aligned. In regards to the most explosive area of the ankle they said that once they secured the bone pieces to the plate with the screws they couldn’t even see where the breaks were anymore. As you already know from the description of the accident, we are incredibly lucky! this is the primary extent of his injuries. His hip and pelvis area are fine. His left leg is fine. His back is fine. His arms are fine. His face, neck and head are fine (with the exception of some road rash on the left side of his head/face which is almost entirely healed). To those who’ve been asking about my experience, let me share that I was shooting in the infield when the accident occurred. The immediate response of the ambulance leaving the infield led me to suspect someone outside of a car had been injured (an unconscious driver in a car is not quite as apparent to onlookers as an unconscious photographer on the ground). I knew Peter was in that area and my anxiety rose when he did not respond to my calls to him on our 2-way radios. A few minutes later Peter’s voice came over the radio I was still unconsciously clutching in my hand: “Do you read me?” Upon my confirmation he relayed: “I’ve been hit. They’re putting me in the ambulance.” His voice was normal, clear and sound… and music to my ears. It’s a call Peter doesn’t remember making but I continue to thank him profusely for doing it, even if unconsciously. The call allowed me to report to the officials at the start/finish line who it was that had been injured and allowed them to get me in the ambulance. When the ambulance doors opened to let me in, there was Peter on the gurney chatting away with his hat on his head (yes… although the hat did not take the entire 360 degree trip, it lives and will be back soon to a race track near you! most namely the 12 hours of Sebring race). I’ve been able to stay with Peter the entire time and as always it’s an incredible pleasure and honor. In addition, Peter’s oldest son, Ian was at the race, along with his fiancée Nikki. They immediately spotted my “focused” actions in the infield and have been by at our side ever since. They allowed me to focus on Peter as they took care of everything else such as retrieving his equipment at the track, retrieving our rental car from the track and packing up our hotel room in Laughlin as I went with Peter to the Vegas trauma center. They followed us to Vegas and allowed me to take some needed breaks those first couple of days when otherwise I wouldn’t have left for even a minute. We are so blessed to have you and these great people in our lives. Peter’s been in great spirits and we think we’ve discovered a great new talk show skit called Stupid Patient Tricks (if you haven’t heard of Stupid Pet Tricks before let me explain the Stupid refers to the Tricks and not to the Patient). Peter’s repertoire of stupid patient tricks grows every day and we should soon be ready for the talk show circuit (I say “we” as some of the best tricks require a partner). So as you can tell, we’re having a good time together, even under these circumstances. Going forward, a femur break requires no weight be put on it for 2 months. In a couple of weeks Peter will be sporting around on crutches which will carry him thru that time period. After that he’ll gradually be able to increase the weight he can put on the leg. In the meantime, he’s really enjoyed catching up with friends on the phone (so feel free to call him. Good hours while he’s at the hospital are 6:30am to 9pm). There’s no internet access at the hospital so I’m sending this from a nearby Starbucks. It’s my first time online since the accident and I’m not sure when I’ll be online again. We want to thank everyone for their calls (and I’m sure there are e-mails waiting for us too) and the beautiful flowers which have begun to fill the hospital room here in Vegas are a real bright spot. At one point today Peter exclaimed: “They really do make the room look nice.” It’s all greatly appreciated! And last night we got a special treat as we got a call from Daytona where in a meeting of the Road Racing Drivers Club they announced Peter had been inducted into the club as an honorary member (a decision that was made prior to the accident). The crowd was still clapping as the call came into Peter’s hospital room. Peter’s immediate response: “What an honor!” We’ve started working with physical therapy here at the hospital and our goal is for Peter to be discharged Saturday at which point we’ll take a flight back to Seattle late that afternoon. He can’t wait to get back home and back online to all of you. I’d say he’s also anxious to get back to racing but he’s never left. His first call Monday was to an editor regarding a story idea and most, if not all, calls since have been racing related. He’s so totally committed to this sport and amongst other things it’s been great to see a young driver he’s believed in the last few years come to the hospital every night to visit him… every night. And you should see the light in his eyes every time this young talent enters the room. He’s thrilled to be able to give his “all” to this sport and we’re very lucky it wasn’t taken to the most extreme of meaning this last weekend. We want to thank all of you for your thoughts and well wishes. It means more than you can possibly imagine and we’re thinking of all of you too. Best regards, Gayle & Peter

Hi Don: In my experience - your speculation would be quite wrong. If it's been sitting in a garage for 16 years, it would need MAJOR and CAREFUL preparation prior to any attempt to turn it over with a battery. Throw a new battery in it, crank it over and you run significant risk of totally screwing it up - and the following expensive and extensive repairs. Do a lot of pre-wake-up work - and you might get away with only having to spend a few thousand dollars on it to bring it back to roadworthy condition. You can bet at this point, it will need front calipers, rear wheel cylinders, all rubber brake lines and a new Master Cylinder. Most likely the radiator will be rotted out and you'll have to replace all coolent lines and heater lines. Figure a new clutch master and slave cylinder as well. All these things freeze up, corrode, or otherwise rot when the car sits in storage for more than 10 years. Often in less time than that. The carpet will more than likely be dry rotting as well. Then there are the tires too. As to value today of the RHD cars in North America - everyone likes to look at them at shows... but very few people will buy one. So their market prices usually run about 75% of what a like condition LHD car will. Keep in mind that if it's a 70 240-Z with RHD - it is most likely to have come from Australia or GB. If on the other hand it is a 1970 Nissan Fairlady Z - it isn't a 240-Z. Rather it has a smaller and less powerful 2.0L engine. (if it's still stock). FWIW, Carl B.

What is the most you are willing to pay for a good 240-Z Body?

Clean car - if it checks out upon close inspection.. A/T most likely driven with more care and therefore in better than average shape. With 39K miles - you aviod having the rebuild the transmission, rear end and engine!! That's a major expense and very time consuming process. Well worth an extra $5K in my opinion. Many of you guys in the Pacific Northwest and California... seem to be actually spoiled by the ability to go find solid 240-Z's at really cheap prices. You still seem to have it in your mind that these cars will always be worth $6K..... If I lived in those area's today - I'd be out buying ever car like this one that I get my hands on for $6K ... and sticking them away for future sales... I personally agree that this one might be priced a bit higher than I'd like - but.... if your going to put $30K to $45K in a full restoration, does it really matter if the starting point is two, three or four thousand higher? What really matters is starting with a good solid, mostly rust free and all stock, complete car. This one might not bring it's BIN but it will finish close... Carl B.

Wonder why it had to be repainted with only 38K miles..... or why the owner thought that painting the front bumper black and leaving the rear chrome was a good idea... It's most likely already been bid up beyond it's value...

Hi Bill: You do have all the spark plugs out - right - and you are sure you have all the head bolts out.... da.... OK - put a 2x4 against the upper part of the head (2" side against the head) - where the top of the intake/exhaust ports are - in front first and then in the rear - SMACK the 2x4 with a heavy brass hammer - repeat if necessary - and use serious force .... Just like an impact wrench - Dynamic Force will break the seal between the head gasket and the head/block (or it will tear the gasket itself). As you have already found out - it's a strong bond - so applying slow force - just won't do. I don't know if you remember Rich Bluder from where you were here or not - but the first time I saw him use that technique, I thought he'd simply lost it.... he said that was part of the Factory Training... I'm sure he was just kidding... but it worked like a charm and no damage to the head... Sometimes you just have to man handle it I guess. FWIW, Carl

Hi E. .... "sheet metal is permeable" what the heck was I thinking?. electromagnetism... Magnetic permeability... Nonetheless - the statement was a brain fart in this context ......vbg... No insult intended. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ed (everyone) The L24 was rated at 150 HP SAE. (that is NOT NET nor is it GROSS - it is the interim SAE spec. between GROSS ratings and the final SAE Net Rating standards - as the draft standard stood in 69/71). First 150HP is the rating at the flywheel. His run was on a chassis dyno - which gives Rear Wheel HP. Most pure stock, good running 240-Z's will put out between 115HP and 125HP at the rear wheels. A 2.25 or larger free flowing exhaust will pickup between 10 and 12 HP at the rear wheels (as demonstrated by other controlled dyno runs) Removing the top of the stock Air Cleaner will yield another 4 HP. So 115 + 12 + 4 = 131HP at the rear wheels... Adding headers to an otherwise stock engine - added nothing. So he may have picked up a couple of HP with the mild cam and headers... None the less - 134 RWHP shows a good strong running L24. All chassis dyno numbers are relative not to be considered absolute my any means. See: <a href=http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/SAEHPRatings.htm TARGET=NEW>SAE HP RATINGS</a> See: <a href=http://zhome.com/rnt/Dyno/KThomasHeaders.htm TARGET=NEW>Dyno Runs</a> Note: Note: Mr. Thomas is by profession an M.E. with Lockheed Space Systems. However he has built several SCCA ITS ARRC winning L24's. FWIW, Carl B.

I don't understand how they can say that - without first knowing how much has been milled off the head - or what the current thickness of the head is (same thing). I agree with Ed... if the cam towers were sitting too low, relative to the crank center... all valves would be effected.... and you'd have problems with the tension or lack thereof on the timing chain... Like Phred suggested - it's time to pull the head off and put in on the bench, so you can check everything. Also - you'd have to supply far more details about what all work was done on the head and valve train... There are two lengths of valve stems.... as I recall... and long ago I did see a problem caused by the Parts Dept. getting them mixed... the result was the machine shop put them in and a couple of the valves had almost 0 adjustment.. I believe that happened partly because 280Z valves were ordered for install in an E-88 head... I really can't see it being a problem with the height of the cam towers... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: Sorry I didn't see this thread when it was started... At any rate this might help someone... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Donald: The first problem I see is - body filler on bare metal. NEVER put any type of body filler other than lead on bare metal. All modern body fillers are some type of plastic... ie epoxy fillers. As they dry, they will suck moisture out of the air, and through the metal they are in contact with. Actually "suck" is figurative - the process is osmosis and sheetmetal is permeable. Always cover bare metal with an epoxy primer - to seal any body fillers away from the metal. Then allow enough time for the body filler to dry, shrink etc. When you see a paint job that is less than 5 years old - with the body work bubbling up.. you're usually seeing the effects of body fillers that were not sealed away from the metal - or body fillers that were used to fill holes that should have been metal patched. When you see fine cracks in the body fillers, it is usually because not enough time was allowed for the filler to dry/shrink completely (90 days isn't unusual in the better restoration shops and many allow 120 to 180 days) The glazing putty - is used for final filling in very thin coats. It dry quickly, and sands out less porously or smoother and shrinks less. Some types resist absorption of the primers/paints applied over the top to provide more uniform color with thinner coats.. FWIW, Carl B. BTW - if your body man tells you it doesn't matter - go some where else.

Since we are wondering off track a bit anyway - Your local Nissan Dealer's Parts Dept. would most likely tell you that "paint" for a 30+ year old car is NLA from them. That simple can of paint pictured by Chris - really is a "symbol" of multi-millions of dollars in capital investment - planned and made over a five year period by Nissan Motors - all to eliminate the need for that can of paint. (well that was one main benefits anyway). Nissan originally supplied a can of paint, in the glove-box of all their Datsuns coming into America (and most likely North America) because of the rather common "shipping, handling and/or Port damage" on cars prior to 1972. More than a mere "touch-up" tube of paint - it was a can of lacquer mixed to match the original factory paint (enamel) that could allow entire body panels to be repainted if necessary. (and many many were!). Lacquer was used for touch-up/repairs because it drys far more quickly and can be buffed down without loss of the skim coat found on enamels. (pictured is the can that came with my Metallic Blue 72). By 1972 Nissan had many of it's new fleet of leased car carrying ships in use, which allowed vehicles to be driven on and off the ships. They also had greatly expanded their Port Facilities in both Japan and the US. All this was an ongoing project initiated in the mid-60's and pretty much put in place by 1971.. By April of 1972 Nissan had eliminated the need for the can of paint, because they had eliminated 90% of the damage to the new cars - and thus quite putting it in the cars and trucks. FWIW, Carl B.

If your car was recently painted - just go get another rear hatch. Drill that one, and then have the body shop fill the holes from the badging, and paint the new rear hatch at the same time as they paint the rear spoiler. FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks Mike ! I think utube will have an impact on our world... Carl

Can anyone tell us more about these events? Length of course, classes in which the cars compete, number of races per year in the series. Are they covered by local or national TV? thanks, Carl B.

Hi Gregg (everyone) Humm... that's interesting.. It has the same Model Number as my kit, but a different image on the top.. What is the Copy Right Date on that one (if you know/or have it). <a href=http://zhome.com/BRE/RevellModels.htm TARGET=NEW> Revell Models on Z Home</a> Carl B.

Brought more than I thought it would at BJ - but I concur with Bob, it's was bought at about the right price given the condition. To me the real surprise was the 71 M/B 280SL - that went for $61,600.00. I've liked these cars for years and years... and for many many years they went for $18K to $25K.... Current NADA gives it High Retail of $46,400 today Also saw a 1970 Mercury Cougar 428 Eliminator....sell for $128,700.00 .... Don't ask me what I sold my 69 428 Eliminator for ten years ago ....(I'm going to be sick...). Current NADA gives it High Retail of $99.960 Carl B.

Yellow, Red... Color it yourself.... What really matters is that you have one to wear to all the Car Shows and Events coming up this spring and summer.... If your a Classic Z Car kind of guy - you have to let others at the Shows/Events know it.... Looks like a good conversation starter to me.... Carl B.

Hi Mikey: I love the T-Shirts and Summer is coming ... is the artwork on just the front or on both the front and back? How can anyone contact you via e-mail? - You didn't put it in your Post. How can anyone send payment via Pay-Pal without knowing what e-mail address to send the PayPal payment to? (Isn't one's PayPal account based on one's e-mail address?) If one is in the U.S.A. - you can easily send a United States International Postal Money Order to Canada, from your local Post Office - just be sure to ask for the "International Postal Money Order" - it is Pink... (they will give you the wrong form if you don't watch them.... just remember it's supposed to be Pink - not blue) Oh.. wait a minute - you still need to provide the mailing address to send orders/payment too. Discounts for ordering 2 or more at a time?? Is that $25.00 Canadian or $25.00 US Dollars? Carl B.

Perfect and Scarce gets you $12,500.00 (or less) Perfect and Scarce and Desirable gets you $25,000.00 Perfect and Scarce, Desirable and Exclusive gets you into the $100K+ club Perfect and Scarce, Desirable, Exclusive and Super Trendy gets you into the $225K+ club Well something like that anyway..... FWIW, Carl B.

Fusible Link Wire is usually sold by it's rated amperage, as reflected by it's color. Most people don't bother to know the associated size in square mm. At any rate - I think you'll find the answer you need at: <a href=http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html TARGET=NEW>Atlantic Z</a> FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: Is the original artwork - something other than the original photo's taken/used? I thought I was receiving the original negatives from the photog. Has something/someone else turned up? See the car? If he's here in Florida - why not simply list Name, address and phone number... like many of the rest of us have. FWIW, Carl B.

Do you mean that the engine was rebuilt by someone else - 25K miles ago? - if so, who knows how many total miles the block has on it ? You might trust your mechanic - but you don't have to trust the instruments he's using to take the measurements.... If he has sent it out to a machine shop for block work - you might want to stop by and ask to see what they are talking about - "egg shaped cylinders"??? That would be pretty unusual.... just a thought, Carl B.

Yes - As I recall it had about 570 some miles on it when I inspeced it before the final sale... As I recall the present owner said it was now 634. It is "as it left the showroom floor - Stickers still in the window, plastic wrap still on the seatbelts and as I recall still on the door panels - although I advised that be removed before the plastic went bad... Carl B.

Have to agree - that is a beautiful 280Z.. just the right color too. No it wasn't me, it was DougN that mentioned it - but the other one had 634 original miles on it. I arranged the sale - and it came from another friend, that is a SERIOUS COLLECTOR - that owned it since around 1980. Needless to say it sold for a significantly higher price than the one on E-Bay. FWIW, Carl B.