Carl Beck

All automobile manufactures release their color codes, along with the information related to the primary colors mixed to achieve it. In this case Nissan's Color Code is 611. PPG - takes the information provided by Nissan, and mixes that color with their paints - they might use the exact same mixture as Nissan, or they may have to alter the formula slightly when using their color products, in order for the final color to come out the same. In this case the 51013 is PPG's code for their color mix. In an ideal world, the paint from Nissan's OEM, and that from PPG should produce the same end result... Other manufacturers would have their own color codes, that represent their mix of colors needed to match that of Nissan's 611. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Greg: I hope you really meant - you were a die hard "Z Car List" guy... that was the e-mail based Z car discussion group that covered all models of the Z Car, and which was accessed through the Z Car Home Page. The Z Car Home Page is still at http://ZHome.com, as is the Internet Z Car Club. When the Z Car Home Page was started in 1984, it too was devoted to all generations of the Z Car... but over the years the Z Car community has split off into model specific groups, and today there are plenty of Web Sites devoted to the individual models.... As such, I may just turn the Z Car Home Page into the "DATSUN 240Z Car Home Page", and offer to contribute any/all other materials to the other Model Specific Web Sites (most of them have more than duplicated the information anyway) ... My main interest has always been the Datsun 240-Z and I may just devote more time to that now. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Dave: Arne has given some pretty good advice. Think about it and let us know a little more specifically what you have in mind - and maybe then we can come up with a list of things to look for, for whatever type of Z, or whatever use you have in mind. FWIW, Carl B.

As I understand it - lead/acid batteries sulfate when they are less than fully charged, and/or left in that state for some prolonged periods. So keeping a starting battery fully charged, greatly reduces the speed with which it would sulfate in the first place. I started keeping all my batteries on digitally controlled maintenance chargers about 15 years ago. The effect was to increase battery life from their former 24 to 36 month life cycle - to 72 to 84 months. Not to mention the fact that I am able, at any time, to go start any car I want to drive, without finding a dead battery. I've been using a GUEST brand, that a friend recommended, and which happened to be on sale at the time at a local Marine Supply Store... as I recall I paid about $39.95 for them on Sale.. {regular $69.96} http://www.fightmania.com/a-B000NI58O2/Default.aspx It looks like the retail price has come down over the years.. $33.39. Some of the other brands on the market offer different "hook-up" options, but this one has worked well for my Z's and other cars with under-hood mounted, starting batteries. So the question is, "is it worth $99.00 to $119.00" to add the feature you ask about {de-sulfate} - and/or does it really work any better than simply keeping the battery fully charged in the first place?". I don't know, and I'd guess it would be six to seven years before you'd be able to measure any difference as applied to newer batteries. I do not know about "saving" batteries that are already "bad". I'm not motivated to replace the existing float/maintenance chargers with this newer technology, and I wouldn't be motivated to spend all that much extra for a feature with questionable value - at least until it has been on the market for years and when there would be far more consumer feedback available. FWIW, Carl B.

By "hardware" do you mean the mounting hardware - or the mounting hardware and the trim rings? Are the repo trim rings, if they are included, chrome or polished stainless? Carl B.

That should do it - if you also have your timing set correctly, the correct weight oil in the crankcase (10w-30w for winter) and solid electrical connections between the starter and a good starting battery. This all is based on also having an engine in reasonable shape, with the cam timing on spec. and good gasoline in the tank (something that is getting harder to find today with all the various EPA required winter blends). Having spend the first three winters of 240-Z ownership in Spokane, Washington - starting in the coldest weather was never really a "problem" in the Z. Took dipstick heaters in the VW, and 55 T-Bird however... FWIW, Carl B.

You can start here. look under Engine - Block and Heads http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/TechPosts.html FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Gary: Oct. 69 into Jan. 71 - - Series I aka 70 and 71 Model Year ie Vents on Rear Hatch Jan.71 into Oct. 71 - - Series II aka "Late Model Year 1971" ie Vents moved to Rear Quarter Oct. 71 into Sep. 72 - - Series III aka 72 Model Year Sept. 72 into Sep. 73 - -Series IV aka 73 Model Year Each of these Series have specific starting points within the overall Series of chassis numbers assigned. Series I Regular Production started at HLS30 00013 released to the public Series II Regular Production started at HLS30 21000 Series III Regular Production started at HLS30 46000 Series IV Regular Production started at HLS30 120000 Highest VIN we have recorded for each Series so far: Series I = 20438 Series II = 43496 Series III = 100262 Series IV = 172767 FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

I have a Steam Shark Blaster... I bought it mostly for cleaning engine blocks, prior to priming/painting. After using chemical solvents/degreasers to get the bulk of the oil/grease and crud off. http://www.sharkcompany.com/shark/productdetail.aspx?title=Shark-Steam-Blaster&pid=FB33DC30-C11F-4DB0-AF2E-E20121CF6E84(Euro-Pro+Base+Catalog) Overall - I'd say I could live without this one. You'd be better off going to rent a large commercial steam cleaner for doing the undercarriage.... if you can put the car up on a rack or rotisserie... FWIW, Carl B.

Kenyaman: I sent you a PM

Hi janaka: I'm not sure what policy you have - but "stock" most likely does not mean "absolutely original". As with a few other 30+ year old cars, you may have to replace an engine, but as long as you use the same "type" as it originally came with - such that it doesn't change the appearance - it should not rule you out of having Classic, Collectible or Special Interest car insurance. There are many, many Classic Z Cars with engine swaps, including V8's that are insured on Classic Car Policies. Street Rods, Custom Cars and Replica Cars are also insured on Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Car Policies. Having a "non-matching numbers" engine will lower the market value of an otherwise "stock" car, and therefore the replacement value of the car. So you would insure it for a lower Agreed Value... Likewise with Street Rods, Custom Cars and Replica Cars - - you just have to reach a replacement value that both you and the underwriter AGREE to. "occasional driver"... as long as it's occasionally driven "FOR PLEASURE", and NOT used occasionally to replace your daily transportation when your daily transport is in the shop etc.. it can be covered with Classic Car insurance. At least that's been my experience... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi George: When my youngest son was 20 and my oldest son was 24..... we call the boys and invited them over for dinner... That is when we told them there would be no hurry to get us Grandchildren, in fact we were going to have a baby ourselves..... and they had to come help convert my "Den" back into a "Nursery". They thought we were kidding.... when we told them they would have a little sister they started to believe us. The only thing better than being a Grandparent, is being an experienced Parent -VBG - Today my younger son has three daughters age 11, 9 and 3. My older son has good sense!! Yes, I'm a real sucker for the Granddaughters.... The only problem with being a Grandparent is that it's happening at far too young an age - my Grandparents were OLD..OLD ... OLD .... enjoy the experience, Carl B.

Hi John: See Post #8 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24818&highlight=Hagerty+Beck Great company to do business with FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

What ever "IT" is - she has IT!! Great looking gal... Wish I could do a photo shoot with her.. Carl B.

Hi Dennis: Like many I've been looking forward to this for some time now, and I'm checking the site almost daily to see what progress has been made. Of course my favorite Section is the <a href=http://www.bre2.net/index.php?section=28 TARGET=NEW>"BAJA"</A> thanks for letting us all know... kind regards, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL http://ZHome.com

You should swap that S.U. out for a Weber.... Carl B.

Hi Kats: What is the diameter of the DATSUN COMPE steering wheel? Is COMPE an abbreviation for COMPETITION? regards, Carl B.

Hi Kats: That fuse and fuse holder are most likey for the electric fuel pump. Note same wire colors etc. See thread: Fuel Pump Wiring - Post #11 (picture below) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27902&highlight=Electric+Fuel+Pump+Fuse FWIW, Carl B.

This was discussed at: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?searchid=508167 but Mike said: It is a very light tint... but can be seen when side by side with the non-tinted glass. FWIW, Carl

The URL for the "IZCC HISTORY" http://www.zhome.com/IZCC/History_IZCC.html Only the e-mail based discussion group aka "the Z Car List" .. is closing down.. The IZCC will still be at it's virtual home on the World Wide Web - "The Z Car Home Page" at http://ZHome.com Our membership data base is close to 15,000 members now - and our membership e-mail lists, will provide whatever communication with our members is needed. We will still maintain our on-line, searchable membership data - so that the Z Car Community can locate fellow Z Car Fan's in their area or state. We will still maintain our list of Local Z Car Clubs so visitors can find a Z Car Club in the physical world that is close to them. Etc. Etc. Etc. FWIW, Carl B.

For 1970 the "Green" was #907 and Datsun called it Racing Green http://zhome.com/History/colors.html and http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html Looks like a very nice Z to have. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com Z's..several 510 Station Wagon... love it!!

See: Mr. Woof's72z for his set up http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28153 I used his picture to show another... You really shouldn't need chokes in California.. unless you go to the tops of the mountains... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guus: Thanks for the great coverage - keep it coming!! Although the photographs thus far are excellent.... I'm sure hoping that someone will get some details of the Z's - engines, suspension, special prep items... kind regards, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL http://ZHome.com

Hi Tony D / everyone: ""included the "Sports" 240"" ... That makes it sound like there was more than one model - there wasn't. The 69 brochure covered the Datsun 240-Z as it was spec'd for the U.S. at that time. There was no lower trim level vehicle mentioned at that point, that I can find. The 1970 Showroom Sales Brochure, that outlined the standard trim, equipment etc actually raised the trim level. (while spec.'ing out the 150HP emissions version) After that brochure went to publication, Nissan included Tinted Glass and Rear Window Defroster as Standard Equipment also. (although it was listed as Optional in the 70 brochure). Emissions Policy - what can we say? The U.S. Voters got what they wanted - less pollution from the cars. Many people thought that was a good thing - and therefore the better car: but I know what you mean. Interesting to note that in the long run, those heinous US Emissions Requirements, may have actually lead to far better performing engines today. We'll never know if the manufacturers would have applied the available technology as it came along - of if they would have invested billions of dollars in the necessary R&D to develop it, without being forced to or not.... but I doubt they would have. If we are looking at the choices Nissan's conservative engineers made - it is important to note that selection of the S20 for the Z in Japan, was a Management decision, not an engineering choice. Given that the S20 was a Prince Engine - we'll never know if the engineers at Nissan would have selected it or not. Neat as the 432 was at the time, or neat a total package as it is still today - the S20 was selected to comply with Japanese government restrictions on engine displacement, while offering a great performing 2.0L engine in the JDM (even if at a significantly higher tax rate and initial price). Emissions or Displacement - government's influence drives engineering choice most of the time. Competition Rules and Regulations drive engineering choice at other times. While the triple carb'd L24 produced 175 HP - it also used a 10.5:1 compression ratio - whereas the 150 HP version was lowered to 9.0:1. So I'm not sure how much HP gain can be attributed solely to the carb's in that case. FWIW, Carl B.

If they were here - there are a couple that I'd just go buy today. But - this is the one that will sell first and for the most: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/car/472915756.html FWIW, Carl B.