Carl Beck

Hi E. .... "sheet metal is permeable" what the heck was I thinking?. electromagnetism... Magnetic permeability... Nonetheless - the statement was a brain fart in this context ......vbg... No insult intended. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ed (everyone) The L24 was rated at 150 HP SAE. (that is NOT NET nor is it GROSS - it is the interim SAE spec. between GROSS ratings and the final SAE Net Rating standards - as the draft standard stood in 69/71). First 150HP is the rating at the flywheel. His run was on a chassis dyno - which gives Rear Wheel HP. Most pure stock, good running 240-Z's will put out between 115HP and 125HP at the rear wheels. A 2.25 or larger free flowing exhaust will pickup between 10 and 12 HP at the rear wheels (as demonstrated by other controlled dyno runs) Removing the top of the stock Air Cleaner will yield another 4 HP. So 115 + 12 + 4 = 131HP at the rear wheels... Adding headers to an otherwise stock engine - added nothing. So he may have picked up a couple of HP with the mild cam and headers... None the less - 134 RWHP shows a good strong running L24. All chassis dyno numbers are relative not to be considered absolute my any means. See: <a href=http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/SAEHPRatings.htm TARGET=NEW>SAE HP RATINGS</a> See: <a href=http://zhome.com/rnt/Dyno/KThomasHeaders.htm TARGET=NEW>Dyno Runs</a> Note: Note: Mr. Thomas is by profession an M.E. with Lockheed Space Systems. However he has built several SCCA ITS ARRC winning L24's. FWIW, Carl B.

I don't understand how they can say that - without first knowing how much has been milled off the head - or what the current thickness of the head is (same thing). I agree with Ed... if the cam towers were sitting too low, relative to the crank center... all valves would be effected.... and you'd have problems with the tension or lack thereof on the timing chain... Like Phred suggested - it's time to pull the head off and put in on the bench, so you can check everything. Also - you'd have to supply far more details about what all work was done on the head and valve train... There are two lengths of valve stems.... as I recall... and long ago I did see a problem caused by the Parts Dept. getting them mixed... the result was the machine shop put them in and a couple of the valves had almost 0 adjustment.. I believe that happened partly because 280Z valves were ordered for install in an E-88 head... I really can't see it being a problem with the height of the cam towers... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: Sorry I didn't see this thread when it was started... At any rate this might help someone... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Donald: The first problem I see is - body filler on bare metal. NEVER put any type of body filler other than lead on bare metal. All modern body fillers are some type of plastic... ie epoxy fillers. As they dry, they will suck moisture out of the air, and through the metal they are in contact with. Actually "suck" is figurative - the process is osmosis and sheetmetal is permeable. Always cover bare metal with an epoxy primer - to seal any body fillers away from the metal. Then allow enough time for the body filler to dry, shrink etc. When you see a paint job that is less than 5 years old - with the body work bubbling up.. you're usually seeing the effects of body fillers that were not sealed away from the metal - or body fillers that were used to fill holes that should have been metal patched. When you see fine cracks in the body fillers, it is usually because not enough time was allowed for the filler to dry/shrink completely (90 days isn't unusual in the better restoration shops and many allow 120 to 180 days) The glazing putty - is used for final filling in very thin coats. It dry quickly, and sands out less porously or smoother and shrinks less. Some types resist absorption of the primers/paints applied over the top to provide more uniform color with thinner coats.. FWIW, Carl B. BTW - if your body man tells you it doesn't matter - go some where else.

Since we are wondering off track a bit anyway - Your local Nissan Dealer's Parts Dept. would most likely tell you that "paint" for a 30+ year old car is NLA from them. That simple can of paint pictured by Chris - really is a "symbol" of multi-millions of dollars in capital investment - planned and made over a five year period by Nissan Motors - all to eliminate the need for that can of paint. (well that was one main benefits anyway). Nissan originally supplied a can of paint, in the glove-box of all their Datsuns coming into America (and most likely North America) because of the rather common "shipping, handling and/or Port damage" on cars prior to 1972. More than a mere "touch-up" tube of paint - it was a can of lacquer mixed to match the original factory paint (enamel) that could allow entire body panels to be repainted if necessary. (and many many were!). Lacquer was used for touch-up/repairs because it drys far more quickly and can be buffed down without loss of the skim coat found on enamels. (pictured is the can that came with my Metallic Blue 72). By 1972 Nissan had many of it's new fleet of leased car carrying ships in use, which allowed vehicles to be driven on and off the ships. They also had greatly expanded their Port Facilities in both Japan and the US. All this was an ongoing project initiated in the mid-60's and pretty much put in place by 1971.. By April of 1972 Nissan had eliminated the need for the can of paint, because they had eliminated 90% of the damage to the new cars - and thus quite putting it in the cars and trucks. FWIW, Carl B.

If your car was recently painted - just go get another rear hatch. Drill that one, and then have the body shop fill the holes from the badging, and paint the new rear hatch at the same time as they paint the rear spoiler. FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks Mike ! I think utube will have an impact on our world... Carl

Can anyone tell us more about these events? Length of course, classes in which the cars compete, number of races per year in the series. Are they covered by local or national TV? thanks, Carl B.

Hi Gregg (everyone) Humm... that's interesting.. It has the same Model Number as my kit, but a different image on the top.. What is the Copy Right Date on that one (if you know/or have it). <a href=http://zhome.com/BRE/RevellModels.htm TARGET=NEW> Revell Models on Z Home</a> Carl B.

Brought more than I thought it would at BJ - but I concur with Bob, it's was bought at about the right price given the condition. To me the real surprise was the 71 M/B 280SL - that went for $61,600.00. I've liked these cars for years and years... and for many many years they went for $18K to $25K.... Current NADA gives it High Retail of $46,400 today Also saw a 1970 Mercury Cougar 428 Eliminator....sell for $128,700.00 .... Don't ask me what I sold my 69 428 Eliminator for ten years ago ....(I'm going to be sick...). Current NADA gives it High Retail of $99.960 Carl B.

Yellow, Red... Color it yourself.... What really matters is that you have one to wear to all the Car Shows and Events coming up this spring and summer.... If your a Classic Z Car kind of guy - you have to let others at the Shows/Events know it.... Looks like a good conversation starter to me.... Carl B.

Hi Mikey: I love the T-Shirts and Summer is coming ... is the artwork on just the front or on both the front and back? How can anyone contact you via e-mail? - You didn't put it in your Post. How can anyone send payment via Pay-Pal without knowing what e-mail address to send the PayPal payment to? (Isn't one's PayPal account based on one's e-mail address?) If one is in the U.S.A. - you can easily send a United States International Postal Money Order to Canada, from your local Post Office - just be sure to ask for the "International Postal Money Order" - it is Pink... (they will give you the wrong form if you don't watch them.... just remember it's supposed to be Pink - not blue) Oh.. wait a minute - you still need to provide the mailing address to send orders/payment too. Discounts for ordering 2 or more at a time?? Is that $25.00 Canadian or $25.00 US Dollars? Carl B.

Perfect and Scarce gets you $12,500.00 (or less) Perfect and Scarce and Desirable gets you $25,000.00 Perfect and Scarce, Desirable and Exclusive gets you into the $100K+ club Perfect and Scarce, Desirable, Exclusive and Super Trendy gets you into the $225K+ club Well something like that anyway..... FWIW, Carl B.

Fusible Link Wire is usually sold by it's rated amperage, as reflected by it's color. Most people don't bother to know the associated size in square mm. At any rate - I think you'll find the answer you need at: <a href=http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html TARGET=NEW>Atlantic Z</a> FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: Is the original artwork - something other than the original photo's taken/used? I thought I was receiving the original negatives from the photog. Has something/someone else turned up? See the car? If he's here in Florida - why not simply list Name, address and phone number... like many of the rest of us have. FWIW, Carl B.

Do you mean that the engine was rebuilt by someone else - 25K miles ago? - if so, who knows how many total miles the block has on it ? You might trust your mechanic - but you don't have to trust the instruments he's using to take the measurements.... If he has sent it out to a machine shop for block work - you might want to stop by and ask to see what they are talking about - "egg shaped cylinders"??? That would be pretty unusual.... just a thought, Carl B.

Yes - As I recall it had about 570 some miles on it when I inspeced it before the final sale... As I recall the present owner said it was now 634. It is "as it left the showroom floor - Stickers still in the window, plastic wrap still on the seatbelts and as I recall still on the door panels - although I advised that be removed before the plastic went bad... Carl B.

Have to agree - that is a beautiful 280Z.. just the right color too. No it wasn't me, it was DougN that mentioned it - but the other one had 634 original miles on it. I arranged the sale - and it came from another friend, that is a SERIOUS COLLECTOR - that owned it since around 1980. Needless to say it sold for a significantly higher price than the one on E-Bay. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi DougN (everyone) He has The Finest collection of First Generation Z that you will find in North America.(as well as a very exceptional 84 50th AE and a 96 350Z Roadster). Like about seven or eight other individuals that are serious Collectors, he's been "buying in early" - anticipating seeing the First Generation Z's follow the Big Healey's of the 60's.. (now selling above $100K in some cases). First Generation Z's are now parked beside Ferrari's and very rare Porsches/BMW's in several Private Collections today. At 62 years of age, I've seen this happen several times. I sold my 55 T-Bird for $1,500.00 in 1970... sold my 62 Corvette a few years earlier for $2,500.00 (and that was top dollar). Knowing what to do and having the funding necessary to do it - are two different things. Right now I know at least seven or eight guys that have both knowledge and funds... The problem is finding the "perfect" original, super low mileage cars they want - paying for them is no issue. This small circle of serious Collectors - will continue to expand over the next five to eight years and the market values of the cars they want will be driven up and up. That in turn will drag up the #3 condition cars as well. Has anyone found a #4 or #5 Condition 55 T-Brid lately? Found any #4 or #5 Condition 64 Pontiac GTO's?... and #4 or #5 Condition 62/67 Corvettes? E- Type's? At some point there were hundreds if not thousands of them around.... The same thing is happening to 240-Z's and is being followed closely by the 280Z's. Very soon we Enthusiasts won't be able to afford to refresh nor restore our 240-Z's... so many of them will be driven into the ground, or simply rust past economic repair/restoration.. and they will wind up being parted out (or purchased with the intent of cannibalization). In a very short few more years - we won't have any "newbies" here in their 20's and 30's looking for a 240-Z that they can buy for less than $10K and drive daily... Just as no one expects to buy a 55/57 T-Brid for anything less than $45K (restorable) or $65K restored today. (the Top End T-Brids are over $225K now for an F Types). Sad but true... it's a very predictable life cycle for the Classics... FWIW, Carl BTW - #3 - Very Good: Completely operable original or "older restoration" showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components; or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete it and/or valuable NOS parts. #4 Good - A drive'able vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional. #5 Restorable - Needs complete restoration of body, chassis, and interior. May or may not be running, but isn't weathered, wrecked, and/or stripped to the point of being useful only for parts.

Hi Gary (everyone) Well - double the value may have been a bit of an exaggeration. -vbg- However, used, but exceptionally good condition parts are selling quickly on E-Bay (especially as they all become No Longer Available from Nissan). You don't have to spend much time following the prices they bring - to realize that it could be quite profitable to part some of these exceptionally low mileage examples out at this point - and resell the individual parts. Anyone that has started buying the parts necessary to just "refresh" a first generation Z recently will tell you that $10K doesn't buy much... Hold all those individual parts off the market for another 5 years and they will likely double in price. It's not just the Black Pearls... it's all the first generation Z's. The Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Cars that have some interesting history or story, in addition to limited quantities always bring higher prices than those that don't. Truthful stories or facts about a specific model simply add interest... talking points if you will ... that aren't associated with the rest of their production brothers. a) The Black Pearls were actually a "Test Market" to see if American Buyers would buy a Black Z Car. They sold quickly when they hit the Dealerships - and in 79 the 280ZX was available in Black (aka Black Gold!). For the most part of the 50's, 60's and 70's Black Sports Cars didn't sell well. The Sports Appearance Package - a must if the Black Pearl is to bring top dollar. c) While Nissan has never released the exact number of Black Pearls sold - they did say that they had at least one for ever Dealer. Believe it or not - some Dealers didn't want one, and other Dealers wound up with three or four. So it is "generally" believed that about 1000 of them were produced for 78. This also limits farther the number that survive in tact - there will be 200 regular production 280Z's for each Black Pearl. (1,000 out of 200,000). How many do you think are left out there in excellent all original condition? d). Collectors seem to favor owning either the First of the Breed or the Last of the Breed. So 1970 and 1978 Z's will lead the price ranges. The "mid-year" cars will always sell for less. The First of the Breed are considered the cleanest design, most true to the designers intent. The last of the Breed usually have the most "improvements" based on a few years in the hands of the consumers. The 78 Black Pearl is simply the most unique, of the last of the Breed. FWIW, just some general statements... nothing is absolute in the Collector Market.. Carl

Can't view Public Profiles... Carl B.

Who is "we"?.... GalaxyBJ and I had them when they were new<http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_smile_lachuh.gif> Carl B. Teeth and chain line up on the half link when the head has been milled (too far?) or if the cam tower shims are too thick?... You may know more once you get the head to a good machine shop and have it checked... No bright link, an aftermarket chain... or repairs done in a z shop with lots of spare used parts..

Yes - and one of my secondary points was that I remembered your main point - from when you corrected me the first time -VBG-..... see I called it a Lyon this time.... and not a Griffin. regards, Carl

Hi Stephen: Maybe the "Prince/Nissan" Lyon? The earliest I've seen the Lyon associated with Nissan - was with the merger Prince. I've never found any association of the Lyon with Datsun (other than by after-market sellers). FWIW, Carl B.