Carl Beck

Call John Williams in Atlanta (I think it's actually Duluth - up near the track) 1-770-806-2926 John has been working on 240-Z's for longer than I can remember - and he races them as well. Super driver by the way.. Tell him I said to say hello... FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

In terms of Clock Position - where do you think the #1 Spark Plug should be? I'm not sure I understand what the "fat side pointing to the right" means. Looking down the hole the distributor goes into - there is an offset with one side lower than the other. Which side is your "low side" on? (right is toward the firewall and Left is toward the radiator). Is the line through the off-set, that divides the high side from the low side - running from 1 O'clock to 7 O'clock - for example - or 11 O'clock to 5 O'clock for example or what? Carl B.

I think everyone else will too! Nonetheless it is a great place for Free Advertising - especially if one is smart enough to include a phone number to call. The overall condition of that car with that VIN in California.... $2,500.00 to $3,500.00 at the outside. FWIW, Carl B.

That is correct - there was a 1 HP difference in the ratings. If by "smog pump" you mean the Air Pump for the fresh air injection system - that was standard equipment on all US Spec. 240Z's right from the begining. While the E31 had a slightly higher compression ratio - the E88 had improved breathing due to redesigned intake and exhaust runners. So the net effect was an all but equal offset in stock configurations. If there were any power robbing additions - it would have been the increased curb weight for 72 and again for 73. As both engines were still rated at 150HP. The flat tops only robbed power when the fuel system vapor locked, or the heat sink caused the float bowls to boil. In effect the flat tops had a bad effect on over-all drive-ability, but no effect on the rated HP. Saying that all 240-Z's in the U.S have 151 or 150 is accurate to within six tenths of one percent - I don't thing anyone worries too much about 1 HP out of 150... By the way - the Bob Sharp and BRE teams switched to the E88 when it came out - because it had better flow (at least that is what they told me at the time). It's easy to adjust the compression by milling the head, or decking the block. It's much harder to improve the flow of a head once it's cast with its intake and exhaust runners defined. The E88's also corrected the tendency of the E31's to crack aound the exhaust valves. FWIW, Carl B.

In a few years that seller will be so unhappy that he sold his Z.... if it sells at his reserve...

Hi Stephen: Thanks - now we need someone to check a 76 and 77... see if there is any difference there. Does your data tag list the original engine serial number or just say L28? FWIW, Carl B.

What's wrong with the 280Z? If you use the baseline of the 240-Z as your personal benchmark of how to get things RIGHT.. then want is WRONG with the 280Z would be: 1. design & styling changes, not to refine or improve the base car - but design changes mandated by government bureaucrats, to pacify tree huggers and safety nuts, neither of which had a clue as to what they were talking about when making their demands for change. a) over size and worthless bumpers a heavier subframe to carry "a)" which added more weight c) stop gap emission control solutions - forced on the manufacturers before quality R & D could be done, and good engineering implemented. This was simply a mess for the consumer. 2. design changes, not to refine or improve the base car - but design changes sought by the customers, that wanted more luxury, a quite car with better heat and sound insulation for better A/C. All of which took some of the original "light" personality away... If you happen to be one of the customers mentioned in #2 above - then NOTHING is wrong other than the junk the Government mandated. 3. future resale value, the 280-Z's will always be considered second choice by the collectors and will not hold the higher values of the 240-Z's over time. 4. Complexity of repair and maintenance over the long haul. As time passes it will be ever more difficult to deal with the computer and sensor problems, the corrosion on critical electrical connections, and find new Fuel Injectors... I'm sure there are others I've overlooked. As everyone has said, there is really nothing wrong with the 280Z's... really, as long as you don't hold them up against a like condition 240-Z. The 280Z is really a very nice car... But it's kind of like being Nicole Kidman's sister....and never quite being Nicole .. but there really isn't anything wrong with Nicole's sister.... FWIW, Carl B.

Taking a quick look though an extensive collection of Engine Data Tags (hundreds of them in the collection from Mr. Lowell Wade) The L24 was rated at 151/150 The L26 was rated at 162 HP The L28E in the 280Z Federal Models was rated at 170HP The L28E in the 280ZX was rated at 132HP The L28ET in the 280ZX Turbo was rated at 180HP (as I recall - I don't have an engine data plate for the 280ZX Turbo's that shows the factory rated HP) If you have an engine data plate for an L28 in a 280Z - that shows something other than 170HP, it most likely is from the "California" model. In which case you should have a "CAT HOT" warning light in the center console. If you have a picture of that data plate, I'd like to see it. The bottom line is - that until the 82 280ZX Turbo with the 5spd. came out - none of the North American 260Z's, 280Z's nor 280ZX's were as fast in the 1/4 mile, nor would any of them beat the 240-Z on a road course. FWIW, Carl B.

Hello Tilman: Welcome to the forum... If you are used to Fuel Injection and Turbo's - then just get an L28ET from the 280ZX Turbo - and drop it in your 240-Z. Then you'd have that kick in the back, along with the Classic lines. FWIW, Carl B.

Oh good.. I was a bit worried that you would not have enough space between the axle and the backing plate - to get the studs out/in - without having to remove the axle. (been a long time since I had to do that job). I guess I was thinking of the longer racing studs.. Carl B.

All of the above - Kroil is the way to go. If you do any work at all on these old Z's a couple of can's of Aero-Kroil are simply indispensable. I've been working on cars for 50 years now, and I've never found anything that comes close to being as effective as Kroil. It's a pain in the neck to have to order it on-line, wait for it to be delivered - and it is not cheap; but well worth the time and effort. Put Kano Labs in google... If you can't get an air or electric impact wrench on it - then resort to the original impact source. Everyone should have a medium size brass hammer in their tool box. So - Kroil and let it soak, then box end wrench on the nuts, then a swift solid blow to the other end of the wrench with the brass hammer... They break right loose. Dynamic torque is soooo much more effective and far easier on your hands.... FWIW, Carl B.

If by "this head" you mean the O.S. Giken head.... Then the main difference is the O.S. Giken head is designed for, and bolts onto, the L series engine, whereas the head from the S20 will not. FWIW, Carl B.

I guess we are all waiting on pictures.... You didn't mention price, nor model year... Stripped rear wheel studs are NOT common, nor are they easy to change. The door not opening from the outside is somewhat common, most likely a broken leg on the door handle... you can swap the left and right side door handles or get another one... good luck, Carl B.

Neat Video... but... I'd rather have a spherical rotary valve head for the L24 today. Anyone have $15,000.00? <a href=http://www.coatesengine.com/ TARGET=NEW>It's A Ball</a> FWIW, Carl

Hi Victor: Way to go - nice pictures of a great car.. You've got to be happy about that. Nissan Sport Mag. should make a deal with several of the Japanese Magazine Publishers that would allow Nissan Sport Mag. to translate and republish several great articles published in Japan. Nissan Motors should encourage that arrangement and indeed help sponsor it. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dave: The 1970 Nissan Stockholders Report lists about 96 countries in which Nissan Motors Ltd. had distributors. Some distributors were also Dealers themselves it seems. I'm not sure all the Distributors listed were actually DATSUN distributors, but that list may include Nissan Distributors who handled Nissan Diesels and Nissan Fork Lifts etc. - in countries around the world. For Australia: Nissan Motor Company (Australia) Pty. Ltd. Melbourne, Victoria Datsun (Distribution) Pty. Ltd. - same street address as above Datsun (Distribution) S.A. Division Kenwick, S.A. Australia Capital 1 Motors Limited - Auburn, N.S.W. Australia Duncan Motor Co. Pty. Ltd. Perth, W.A. Australia Ira Berk (old) Pty. Ltd. Queensland, Australia Holyman Motors Pty. Ltd. Tasmania, Australia Cavenagh Car Sales Pty. Ltd. Northern Territory, Australia = = = = = = = = = = = = Ira Berk started as a Dealer in 1962 and celebrated his 20th Anniversary as a Datsun Dealer in 1982. Anyone know if he or his dealership is still around? Of course Nissan had a couple of Importers and a couple of Distributors in 1958, prior to forming NISSAN MOTORS IN USA in 1960. The reason that Mr. K. recommended Nissan take over its own sales and distribution in the US was that the distributors were not doing a good job of marketing and sales. Mitsubishi was the "Importer" with Chester G. Lubby, a Chevrolet Dealer in Forest Hills, New York, as the sole distributor for 22 Eastern States, April 29, 1958. Marubeni was the "Importer" with Woolverton Motors of North Hollywood, California as the Distributor in May of 1958 for the Western and Southwestern States. Both Distributors were already large organizations dealing in domestic and some foreign makes. They established subsidiaries, Luby Datsun Distributors and Western Datsun Distributors to handle their new line. Ray Lemke of San Diego was the first Datsun Dealer with sales starting in Oct. of 58, past the original Distributor/Dealers. In 1965 Lemke Datsun became the first Dealer to sell 100 cars in one month. Datsun USA had: 122 Dealers in 1961 144 Dealers in 1962 225 Dealers in 1963 ??? Dealers in 1964 432 Dealers in 1965 (as of Nov. 65) ??? Dealers in 1966 544 Dealers in 1967 (as of April 67) ??? Dealers in 1968 640 Dealers in 1969 (as of Jan. 69) 899 Dealers in 1970 (as of Jan. 70) 922 Dealers in 1971 (as of Jan. 71) 937 Dealers in 1972 (as of Jan. 72) The above does not include Dealers in the State of Hawaii which reported still to Japan. Many, if not most, of the original Dealers in 61/62 were used car lots or mechanical repair shops. Lemke was typical of the people that grew from mechanic, to millionaire with Datsun in the USA FWIW, Carl B.

Another thing to keep in mind is that mold spores are carried by/on/with dirt/dust. So always do a good job of vacuuming the carpet and clean every other surface thoroughly prior to long term storage. Once you get mold growing on leather or vinyl - just cleaning it off isn't enough. You have to kill the mold spores that get deeper into the material - - - so you need a germ killer like Lysol. Always test a small area before you use any product that kills germs - some contain bleach and you don't want to bleach any of the color out of anything... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dave: Great idea. The history of Datsun/Nissan is an area of interest for me and several of my friends. I would like to know the answers to a lot of the questions you pose. So if anyone can find and publish some of the associated history such as you have done - it would be great. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Miles: Thanks - very interesting. Of course some information always leads to more questions. Most of the New Car Dealers here in the States derive a great deal of their income from their used car sales. They either retail the cars they take in on trade, or wholesale them out to other used car dealers. What do the New Car Dealers do with the cars taken on trade in Japan? You mentioned auto registration takes some time - but I understand that it also involves several different forms and amounts of taxation. To tie all this back to the 240-Z and 432Z: Since the early 50's Japan has had a tax on private vehicles, based on the engine displacement. Do you know, or can you find out, how much that tax was in 1967 - 70. It seems to have had a great impact on cars sold there with over 1499cc engines. As I understand it, it is an annual tax not just a one time penalty like our Gas Guzzler Tax on new vehicles. regards, Carl B.

Yes - it sound like that is at least a starting point. With the Key at 12 O'clock - the #1 piston should be at TDC.

Hi Jeff: With all that said - why don't you? You are test driving a lot of nice cars, so money can't be the stopping factor. What keeps you from buying? I know why I don't - its just a personal opinion - but I think its ugly. On top of that its overpriced. Just as a personal benchmark for my personal tasts - the Solstice mentioned above comes much closer to my idea of beauty and value.. but still not quite close enough. If they would build the Coupe they designed, chop 300lbs off because of the roadster body - and drop the price of the turbo model to $23,995.00 I'd be in there buying... What would Nissan have to do - to make you a buyer? regards, Carl B.

As I've said before - I do the best I can. Perhaps instead of cursing the darkness, you'll light a candle and publish the information and their sources that you have. The numbers I used were from memory - Nissan USA reported 922 Authorized Datsun Dealers in 1970. Oops.. I was off by 18. It is not so much a matter of the USA/Canada markets being big, as it is a matter of historical fact that Japan very specifically wished to export automobiles to America. Could have been because it was the largest market, could have been because it was the most open. What ever the reason, the fact is it was America into which Japan Inc. wished to sell their exports, and for which they were willing to build what Americans wanted to buy. Really unlike the auto manufacturers in GB and Europe that seemed to think we should appreciate their offerings for what they were, rather than attempting to make them as more of us would have wanted. Really? Wow.. I wonder how Richard Feast missed that.. You'll have to give me your source for that data, and I will include it in my references. According to Richard Feast's "Datsun's foothold in Britain", AUTOSPORT July 29, 1971.... for example: Less than 2000 Datsuns were sold in GB in 1970. The original franchise was handled by the Layford Group, but was eventually sold. Datsun UK Ltd. was FORMED at the end of 1970. I suppose that is one reason that the UK received only a couple 240-Z's in 1970. By the end of 1971 they were moving into their new facilities at Esplanade House in Worthing. Datsun UK Ltd. employed about 40 people. Between the end of 1970 and the report by Feast in mid 71 Datsun UK had "signed up" about 120 garages willing to sell Datsuns. He didn't break out the number of Nissan Authorized Dealers, actually open for business in 1970. He did report that Nissan said they sold less than 2000 units there in 1970. Feast writes: - Quote - "The method of introducing Datsuns to the British market was through dealer conventions. Local garage owners, professional people, potential customers and press were invited to a centre to hear about and sample the product. The result is some 120 garages selling Datsuns, some tempted from previously well established dealerships." - end quote - Of course we all know that articles in Automotive Magazines are often wrong. Nonetheless from memory it seems to agree with other sources I've run across. So I'll accept your answer to my Question - that GB is one country to have over 10 Dealers in 1970. With farther research I'm sure we can identify at least 10 Dealers in Australia as well - but so far we have only a list of Authorized Distributors there for 1970... some of which were still listed as Prince Distributors. It was a Nissan issued document, I'll see if I can find it again. Nonetheless it wasn't so much that the American market was BIG - so much as it is the fact that it is THE market that Nissan decided to compete in - in a big way first. Well I'm glad to see that you finally accept the fact that Nissan Motors Ltd. was willing and able to design and build the cars their Customers in America wanted to buy. Big comfortable cars with lots of power! ) I'm not really sure that Nissan Motors Ltd. in Japan actually had franchised Dealerships, in the sense that we did here in America. Where large inventories of new cars were on display, large Parts Departments socked huge inventories of parts and Service Departments handled all warranty work and mechanical work after the sale. Perhaps you could light a candle there as well, and inform us all of the exact retail sales arrangements in Japan in 1970. Did retail salesmen really come to one's home to sell the car, or is that just an urban legend ? Did one buy their car one place, then take it elsewhere for service or repair? What was the warranty on a new car purchased in Japan? Nonetheless, what ever the sales arrangements of the Japanese sales outlets, they sold about 3% of the total number of 240-Z's in Japan, and about 12% of the total Z Cars produced 70-73, into the home market. Nissan reported total production of vehicles at 1,374,022 of which 71% were sold into the JDM, so it was certainly a large and viable market for the right cars. I'm not really sure what data you are referring to. Did you provide some data?... Oh, the Datsun UK having over 110 franchised and active dealers IN 1970?... Do you have a better source that explains how they managed that when they were formed in the last few months of that year? I'm not saying it isn't possible - just seems unlikey that 110 dealers would have sold less than 2000 vehicles in 1970 there. The 922 Dealers sold just over 150,000 Datsun in 1970, and just over 250,000 in 1971. Mostly because Nissan supplied them with the vehicles, but never enough to meet the demand, we were always waiting on more cars and trucks. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Kats: Funny - that is exactly the way I was thinking when I had my First wife. just kidding, Carl B.

It most likely wasn't the first set of pads, and you most likely made it worse with the metallic pads. The metallic pads have very fine shreds of metal in them. That is there to dissipate heat more rapidly in heavy brake use situations. The metal shreds can leave very fine metal shavings on your rotors.. and they rust over-night. Not really a problem if you drive the car frequently. A couple steps on the brakes usually cleans it off again. The squeal is most often caused because the anti-squeal shims are too weak, not changed with the pads, not reinstalled correctly or left out all together. There is also an anti-squeal compound that is supposed to be used between the pads and the pistons in the calipers... many shops fail to use it or install it incorrectly. The third thing overlooked when a shop gets in a hurry is Disk Brake grease.. that should be used on the pins, on which the brake pads hang. FWIW, Carl B.

That is correct - when you set the engine up. But you indicated that you had the car running, even if badly... and NOW when you bring the #1 cylinder up on TDC the bright link isn't where it was to start with. In that case you simply keep turning the engine over, until the bright link returns to its correct position when #1 is at TDC again. If your engine doesn't have the usual timing mark pointer - go the junk yard and get one off another L series engine. Set the engine at "0" (#1 at TDC) and bolt the pointer in place so it points to the "O" mark on the pulley. Or you can use a piece of bent wire with the end painted yellow. At NOON... right on the top of the crankshaft. FWIW, Carl B.