Dtsnlvrs

Agreed Slick 50 is junk, The army sued the manufacture after it ruined thousands of Turbo Diesel engines. I also am skeptical of additives, however, when the additive is replacing something that used to be in our oil that the EPA had removed...I would buy it. ZDP is essential to our type of engine, ie one with solid cam to rocker contact.

I have a Halmeter on the car, I believe I have the mixture right, just that with 30mm chokes on a 2.8L it does not wanna make more power up high. I could be wrong, and a dyno will tell the whole story, but as I said before, I will wait on further tuning after I get my new Isky cam installed.

I was told once that there was a motor oil that had graphite in it at one time, in addition to ZDP. From what I understand, the benifit of graphite in the oil did not outweigh the problem of dealing with cleanup. It seems that the grophite impregnated oil would permanently stain anything it came in contact with, ie concrete flooring. So the graphite impregnated oil was discontinued. I do not know if adding graphite would be helpful, or what it will do to oil filters, pumps, galleys etc. However I do now the benifits of adding a additive with ZDP.

Yes, you will need to remove the heater control panel. The easiest way is to remove the heater cables from there respective actuators, IE the flapper door, heater control valve etc. There should be 4 cables, once removed, just remove the remaining 2 upper screws from the heater control panel and slide the panel aft just enough to reach the fan switch connector, then it will come out completely. On a side note, while the panel is out, dont forget to clean and lube the heater controls and cables.

There was no "bracket" per say. The factory radio in a 240 had screws that went thru the dash side supports, if you got the heater panel out you know what I am talking about. A DIN chassis will fit thru the factory opening with som mild sanding to open the hole up a bit. Use the flexible bracket thingy that comes with the new unit and put a 90deg bend at one end. Attach it to the back of the radio with the supplied screw. Now you will have to cut 2 to 3 holes worth of metal off the other end. Bend the bracket so it has a slight downward curv to it. When you slide the radio into the din chassis that is mounted in the heater panel (heter panel must be attached first) you can reach behind the panel (along the defrost duct area) and guide the bracket up and on top of the base for the heater duct box. Makes for a secure fit. The DIN chassis clips hold the unit IN and the bracket supports it UP.

Thru a conversation I had with Ron Iskenderian at Isky cams I learned that our US motor oils no longer contain zinc di-phosphate. This is a critical component for our engines. Seems the EPA figured the only cars left that needed it were old rust buckets so what the hell. The idea is that ZDP bonds to the metal and when the oil sheers, the ZDP takes the hit instead of the metal. For a solution he recomends General Motors E.O.S. Assembly Lube (GM part #1052367). It can be obtained thru any chevy dealer. He says to use 1.5 can for break in and .5 can every oil change. I called a family friend at GM who works in the Corvette division and he verified Ron's claim. GM still sells EOS for its antique Corvette owners who are in the same boat we are. Hope this helps out there.

So I was doing a lash adjustment the other day when I discovered I had "wiped" 2 cam lobes. Now I checked the cam and sure enough it was a CWC billet. I think we had hashed that over enough already so I will not go there. So I called Isky racing cams and talked to Ron Iskenderian. He confirmed what I had suspected, and recommeded I send him a old stock "Japan" cam and a list of my exact engine specs and what I want the car to do. He is going to do a custom grind for my engine. Then we talked about oil. This is where we all need to pay attention. Our US motor oils no longer contain zinc di-phosphate. This is a critical component for our engines. Seems the EPA figured the only cars left that needed it were old rust buckets so what the hell. The idea is that ZDP bonds to the metal and when the oil sheers, the ZDP takes the hit instead of the metal. For a solution he recomends General Motors E.O.S. Assembly Lube (GM part #1052367). It can be obtained thru any chevy dealer. He says to use 1.5 can for break in and .5 can every oil change. I called a family friend at GM who works in the Corvette division and he verified Ron's claim. GM still sells EOS for its antique Corvette owners who are in the same boat we are. Hope this helps out there.

Ahh I forgot about the maxima pan:stupid: :stupid:

:rambo: So I got this guy in Italy....has all sorts of NOS weber parts. I decided I did not like the performance of my triples (flat spot during accel) and ordered some different jets, tubes, chokes, etc. They came in yesterday so I decided to re-jet the carbs today. The carbs are 40DCOE18. I am now running 30mm chokes, 120main jets, 135 air correctors, F-11 emulsion tubes, 50F9 idle jets, and the accel circuit has 45 jets, 50 pump bleed and 10mm pump rod stroke. I balanced the carbs and set the idle at 1k, then rebalanced and reset, yall know the deal. Now the car comes off idle smooth with no flat spots or bogs, and pulls steady to redline. I did notice a loss of top end power and she will not pull very hard past 6k in 3rd or 4th, but the car is very torquey and tractable down low. When my new cam comes in from Isky (custom grind) I will probably go back to the 32mm chokes or possibly my 33mm chokes and start all over, but for now it is a blast to drive around town. :D

Number one, you are in the wrong forum....this is the carb sys forum. Number two, why the hell would you wanna replace a hardtop with T-tops? :cry:

Now you sound like you need an SUV....but my beef is with the single chick that has to commute to work in her H2...then bitches about gas prices not to mention they think 4 wheel drive means 4 wheel stop. However, a Honda Accord station wagon (if they still make it) should be able to replace your Pathfinder if you were so inclined :rambo: :rambo:

There were 4 different oil pans. 69-70 got a pan with a side drain, 71-78 was identical to 69-70 but with the more familiar aft drain, 79-83 N/A had a pan with a sump set farther back and an aft drain, and of course the turbo pan. The thing to remember is to match the pan to the oil pickup tube. The S130 cars had a different oil pickup than the S30 cars. They are all interchangable but the pickup needs to match the pan....and BTW you physically cannot mount the s30 pan on a block with a s130 pickup or vice versa. However, if you put a s130 pan and pickup in a s30 car, you can remove and replace the pan without lifting the engine.

What I am trying to figure out is, How high does it have to get before Americans stop buying and driving SUV's, or do we have to have gas lines again for that to happen.

Spicer U-joints can be ordered thru any 4x4 shop, or local Dana/Spicer distro centers. Best bet is to call MSA and politely ask for the Spicer part number then order from whomever you like. However, MSA keeps the Spicer Z-car U-joints in stock, and can usually get them shipped to me faster than ordering from a local distributor, and the price is usually the same. And as far as the different circlip widths go, a little sand paper goes along way to make the spicer clips a perfect fit.

The lights are really green...like Super Green...like Augusta Greens green. and plenty bright. They are very easy to see now even when city driving but the green is dark enough to prevent loss of night vision during very dark driving.

Well I could probably write this in 3 different forums, but it is all related so I will put it here. Where to start. I had this wonderful idea to replace all of my z-car lights with LED units....as of last month all I had left to do was the instrument lights. Easy enough....went to www.superbrightleds.com and ordered what I needed (7 green BA-7 bulbs). Well, they dont fit into the guages because of the factory green lens (bulbs are taller). So I have to remove the gauges and dissassemble them to facilitate the taller bulbs. No problem, hey while I am at it I will replace/rebuild the HVAC controls, and clean the ducts, and repair some wiring while the heater console is out. No problem....finally got all that done. Now heater works great, radio works great, lights work great, on to the tach and speedo....but wait..I have a full dash cap...cannot remove tach or speedo due to the cap....no prob...cap is adhered with rtv...should peel off with little problem, do the light mod thing, then put on a new cap right....WRONG...practically broke the dash (literally) trying to get that damn thing off. Totally trashed my dash......so on the phone I go...calling DaddZ cuz I know he has a 70 dash just laying around. We got the old dash out, swapped the harness, did the gauge mod thing, got the new dash all ready to go. That was Tue night. Wed night: we installed the new dash and pretty much left it at that, just installed, as in bolted up...what a pain-x that is. Thu night: onto the chores, wiring, heater controls, stereo etc....I managed to wrap it up as it was getting dark so I decided to "run" to the store to top off the tank......$^!#...dash lights dont work and neither does the speedo. Got the gas, got home, speedo was easy...cable was not hooked up to the speedo. The lights were a different matter all together....make a long story short, about 2 hrs later I found that I had not connected the wiring to the light dimmer....do you know how hard it is to get two hands under there to make those connections. So it is all done now and just in time for the ZCCNV spring fling rally Sat morn. Damn that was alot of work...but well worth it.

I would Take em back and buy Spicer Heavy Duty U-joints.

Ok there has been some good info spouted in this thread, but IMHO all of you have put the cart before the horse. Yes, the TO collar needs to match the pressure plate hieght. Yes, you should bleed it properly. Yes, you can use a early clutch fork in a late tranny. But what has to be done before all of that is to set the bloody pedal height, esp with a CFII. If the pedal height is too short, obviously the clutch will not disengage, hoever on a CFII if it is too tall, the clutch will disengage then re-engage as the TO bearing pushes thru the spring fingers. It is hard to describe how it does this, but trust me on this one, SET THE PEDAL HEIGHT FIRST. The service manuals describe rather well how to do this as well as give the actual number.

Would be easier to go to ITB injection rather than modify the head for the stock injection. www.twminduction.com Redline/Weber also makes a kit.

I concur with the above statement. I never wiped a lobe on a Japan billet, and I never had rockers reground. I never cared where they went when I had them removed. It was not until the purchase of a Schneider cam that I had rocker and or lobe issues.

I used to think the same thing, but now know better. Schneider Cams are ground on CWC billets not Japan billets. IMHO CWC has the metalurgy all wrong for OHC setup. I installed a Schneider in my car (full MSA cam kit) and now have two scored and pitted cam lobes. I would put my money on Isky. They will grind on a new Japan Billet (if available) or regrind a used Japan Billet. And I would not "cam" a 280 with stock injection. Just my 2 pennies.

Great point Alan, the series of DCOE, IE 45DCOE152 etc, will glean usefull information on proper jetting. When it is all said and done, it is possible to have 2 identical motors jetted differently. The later DCOE carbs made in Spain (45DCOE152) were more of an emmision design with idle air bypass screws for balancing airflow, and more progression holes in the circuit. FWIW I pretty much follow Honsowetz"s reccomendations, but I dont use nearly as large a venturi as he specifies. I like my cars to pull well right off the line, therefore, I use a 30mm venturi in a 40DCOE18.

The jetting differs with venturi size. There are several good books which can help you get into the ballpark. "How To Build & Power Tune Weber & Dellorto DCOE, DCO/SP & DHLA Carburettors" by Des Hammill, and Honsowetz's book "How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine" Camshaft selection, headers, etc will all play a part in setting up the carbs. However for a starting point, try a 34mm venturi with either a 135 or 140 main jet and either a 155 or 160 air corrector. For Idles I would start with a 50F9 or 55F8.

I have owned my current 70 for 8 years (1998), had a 72 prior to that (96-98), and have owned several before that. Been driving for 20 years, been a Z car driver for the same 20 years (except for 1 year in Korea)

There are only tree plug wires I would ever run. OE Japan (NGK), the OE for Porcshe (cannot remember name) and Magnecor. Everything else is junk IMHO