theczechone

it's gorgeous! the attention to detail is incredible! Anyone know what kind of seats are those?

You could always try aircraft remover

I'm assuming you want to get rid of the rear bumper completely for a roll pan look. Do not just fill them, bondo or fiberglass in that thickness would surely crack in record time. The easiest way to shave the sides, in my opinion would be to cut slots along the edges and hammer them flush with the rest of the quarter panel, weld up your cuts, weld in a small piece to cover the hole, and put a light layer of body filler, I don't feel comfortable if my filler is more than a 1/4 inch thick. For the indentions on the back I would just weld in pieces to cover the openings. The bumper mounting locations might have to be shaved somehow as they stick out from the body.

I currently love these - they are work equips, they are a bit pricey, but varrstoen makes a good looking affordable replica : http://www.ebay.com/itm/15X8-VARRSTOEN-V2-WHEELS-4X114-3-RIMS-0MM-FITS-DATSUN-240Z-70-85-/370574904456?hash=item5647fc4c88&item=370574904456&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_3256wt_1141

If you have decided to part it out, sure it's a shame that another series 1 will die, but at least it will die with honor of helping the others live.

^ nice find on the TTT coilover setup, i feel that they will be receiving quite a bit of my money this fall

Looks like it has an LT1

http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/products.php?cat=10 The only "complete" kit I know of other than Arizona Z. HybridZ might have more information on coil over suspension systems. For the most part, the kits you will get require welding on the threaded sleeve. Also I believe that the guy who owns that shop I posted a link to is a member here, and he might chime in with more info.

Great progress, are you going to media blast or use a chemical stripper to remove the paint?

their price came in at around $700 which is not so bad at all. Has anyone dealt with them before?

congratulations and yes! i'd say it brings up the value of the car. Is your's a 12/69? It's funny that yours is 566 because mine is 655 also in need of full resto.

Ok, good to know, so far I am looking to rent, at least for my first year there, but my major, and really the only stipulation is a 2-3 car garage . I'm a single guy with no family so 2 bdr would be perfect, if I have some friends in town. If you know of anything let me know.

My job is in Plymouth, MI with AVL engineering, I will probably try to find a house in the Plymouth or Canton area. My car will be completely stripped down and fully rebuilt after I get it up there, so I am not worried about damage to the paint if it was not in an enclosed trailer. However I'd rather it not rain on it as the seals on doors and hatch seem to be just for show. My company offered to help a little with the transportation cost, but it will be nowhere near the numbers you guys are throwing out. I'd like to keep under 1K if possible, but we'll see. With the current price of fuel it will be expensive just to drive my other car up there. I have dealt with Reliable-Carriers before, our university has team to design and build hybrid vehicles which I am part of. We used them to ship our car to GM proving grounds before. They were very professional and truly cared about our car. Too bad we're not doing the same this year, or i could sneak my car onto the transport for super cheap... I'm trying to plan ahead now so I know what I am getting into.

I will finally finish my grad school and start my full time job this June. This means that I got to move from Starkville, MS to Detroit, MI and my Z is not exactly in drivable condition right now. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with car shipments over long distances, or if anyone can suggest a good company to use for this. Thanks

if it has a center console I would be very interested, thou the price and shipping will be the deciding factors!

Glad everyone was ok, and good luck in the rebuild. Seems that the worst is going to be replacing the core/radiator support. I would probably try to replace it with a new one if there Is one available.

Welcome, looks like you're off to a great start, now make her yours!

I got lucky, met a great z guy in Alabama on Sunday, and he has a rust free tank that he is willing to trade for a spare set of wheels that came with my car. I don't think i want to deal with removing this stuff. It will be more expense and work out of my pocket, if it even works. Thanks for your support guys

Ok so it's possible i did not do this correctly but here are the steps i had taken, The tank was pulled about a week ago and all the fuel drained out evaporated out - rinsed the tank out with water - let it sit in the sun ( 86 degrees outside) to dry a bit before marine ready - mixed in marine clean with a qrt of hot water out of my tap and sloshed for 20+ min - rinsed the tank by running water through it for approximately 45min - repeated the process with marine clean and another qrt of hot water - rinsed for an hour with water - tank sat for hour in the sun after draining rinse water (directions specified that tank did not have to be completely dry before metal ready) - poured in metal ready sloshed vigorously and than I let it sit in the tank on all 4 sides for 30 minutes (total of 2 hours) - rinsed about 30 min, poured as much of the liquids out - bought a heat gun, and let it blow into the tank on high for 30 minutes until all of the tank was hot to touch. - opened the sealer - mixed for about 10 minutes or until the color seamed uniform - poured it into the tank and rolled it around... I started at 10 am finished at 9 pm... side notes : - tank looked amazing after the marine clean - the bottles of marine clean were leaking upon arrival from MSA, not much seemed to have leaked out so i didn't pay much attention to it - humidity is through the roof where I live please tell me where I went wrong as I know I must have, people use this often and with a lot of success

my car is 01/70 and shipping alone due to size and weight would be over a hundred dollars, don't know if I can justify that compared to a small fuel cell that would fit next to the wheel well. Thank you for giving me another option thou, I did email the guy for a quote.

Ok, so yesterday i spent all day sloshing around chemicals in my rusty tank, I made sure to follow the instructions as good as I possibly could. The only thing is that i could not drain all of the excess sealer out because there is a dent where my drain plug is and the inlet hole won't let you drain everything. Today I looked into the tank and saw that there were a number of places where the sealer is not sticking :mad: . So what do I do now? 1. Look for another tank and go through all this again??? 2. Do a fuel cell which will stick out from the bottom and will make me cut out my spare tire well??? Is there a way to remove/dissolve POR15, I was under the impression that it's indestructible. Thanks

^great info, I would like to add that using the fork is a pain no matter what advice i have used before. I have heard really good things about this: also if you needed to salvage your joints this is the way to do it, the fork will destroy the boot. If I was you and drove the car daily I would definitely replace the tie rods and the ball joints. For one it could be bad, I had a ball joint snap on my prelude, fortunately I was in a parking lot going slow when it happened so the damage was minimal ( just a new ball joint fender and paint...), it could have been a lot worse had it happened on the freeway. Also by replacing the joints you will feel an incredible improvement in suspension handling and steering wheel play. Good luck

Dang bro! How do the ball joints look?

Sealed my tank with POR-15 today....I'm exhausted!

Glad to hear you picked up a new one, these car are like an addiction. Sounds like you've got yourself quite the nice car. I also can't wait to see some shots of this beauty!