MikeW

Back when I was driving my 240Z in college I built a way over-engineered waterbed out of 2x10's. I brought all of them (some 8 foot and some 10 foot) home sticking out the hatch. 2x4's are nothing. On the other hand, here's how not to load building supplies ... http://www.tardsite.com/trdomnth122000.htm

Well what do you know ... the current bid is down to $3100. I guess someone got smart and retracted their bids.

I've seen a lot worse. That one is actually fairly well done. On the other hand, I don't see the point in trying to make a Z look like a Ferrari, especially when you go to the length of using prancing horse emblems on the wheels and steering wheel. Instead of using one of the kits to radically change the body they just used a G nose and minor Ferrari-like modifications.

Perhaps you could just take a Haynes manual or something similar with you. I don't have one handy at the moment but since those manuals cover several model years any reference to a Catalytic converter will say something like "1975 and greater".

Unless it changed between models it's a blue rectangular indicator at the very bottom of the speedometer. It shouldn't be hard to get to as long as you don't mind being upside down under the steering wheel and reaching up while your blood rushes to your head ...

The Z generally has enough headroom for most people. I don't think 6'5" is a problem as the seats can slide all the way back and tilt back as well. Don't expect more than about 20mpg - less depending on how you drive - and we all know how you probably drive. On the other hand, gasoline is cheap compared to other things, especially in the US. While mileage is a consideration don't let it affect you too much. I'm all for being environmentally friendly but I wouldn't pay a lot of extra money to get better gas mileage. You can buy an awful lot of gas for the difference in price. Look at the price difference and mileage difference here for essentially the same car: http://autos.yahoo.com/compare/compare_over.html?count=3&cmpCar1=toyota03echo4doorsedan&cmpCar2=toyota03prius4doorsedan

I'm so glad you got it back!! :classic: I kind of suspected joyriders as opposed to professionals when you first posted this but I didn't say anything. You're probably right about the key thing. I've been wondering what to do about that as well to prevent a loss like yours. I'm guessing you're thinking of such things as well ... :devious:

XXXS30 = 240, 260 or 280Z First X above: Blank = Coupe G = 2+2 Second X above: H = L24 for 240Z R = L26 for 260Z H = L28E for 280Z Third X above: L = Left hand drive Blank = Right hand drive

Actually, the gasket is not the problem here. In fact, you don't really need those gaskets as the fuel in the float bowls should never reach that level. The whole point of the float bowls is to keep a constant fuel level. When the float goes up it presses on a needle valve that shuts off the fuel supply. When it goes back down it lets more in. The needle valve can stick open or closed. Yours was stuck open which never shut off the fuel supply hence the flood. If it sticks closed you'll have 3 cylinders not operating and can sometimes beat on the float bowl cover to unstick it. Beating on the cover may help you as well but you can easily remove the lid and try to clean it up. The best solution are replacement valves called Grose-Jets. Unfortunately they don't seem to be readily available anymore; I'm not sure why: http://www.ztherapy.com/products/ReplacmenCarbParts/grosejet.htm The reason I say the gasket doesn't really matter is that there are hoses that attach to the top of the bowls that run to the air cleaner. If the needle valve gets stuck open the fuel will go straight to the air cleaner where it will pool up in the back and then leak out onto your exhaust pipe. If it simply leaks out of the bowl itself if will bypass the exhaust manifold by a bit.

I'm guessing he's talking about this: http://www.por15.com/tankseal_fuelpreserve.html

Hmm, my 72 speedo starts at zero and all I remember was that 1970 speedos started at something other than zero so I made a bad assumption. Therefore it seems like they went from 20 to 0 to 10. Anyone know why?

It has a 1970 speedometer (starts at 10mph) and therefore I wouldn't trust the odometer at all. I highly doubt the 38K miles claim.

I'd be curious to know what the radiator shop doing the work has to say on this issue.

Click on the Gallery "tab" up near the top. You should then see a number of links that look like this, once again, near the top of the screen: My Gallery | Album Admin | My Favorites Home | Profile | Upload Photos | Logout

Welcome. Just click on Gallery up near the top and then click on the "Upload photos" link.

I'm not sure if this helps but can't you fairly easily get to the back side of most of the emblems? As I recall you have to pinch the fastener with a pair of pliers and it will pop right out.

It's actually more like "Hey, Y'all" as in the following example: Q: What's the last thing a redneck ever says A: "Hey Y'all, watch this!!"

I have the exact same thing. As I recall it came in the packaging of a Logitech optical mouse as a way of drawing attention to it on the store shelf. I just found mine (I must be a real packrat) and it's still blinking after probably two years. Perhaps I'll put it in the car as well.

Take a look at the picture I've uploaded that shows my front bumper as you've described.

Since you're using a film camera (as opposed to digital) you'll need to get them scanned first unless whoever processes your film can also give you a CD with pictures. To upload, go to "Gallery" and then click "Upload Photos".