grannyknot

I put in triangulated braces front and back and they do make a noticeable difference when pushing the car and the rear helps a bit for squeaks but what eliminated the squeaks for good was stitch welding all the seams in the car. That noise drove me crazy too, I didn't stitch weld the seams for that reason but it was a pleasant surprise when the car was all put back together.

That's actually reassuring, the 6spd transmission was of unknown condition when I bought it, I could spin it and row through the gears but that's it. Thanks

The 7/8" MC is already installed. The fork is two sided with the pivot on one side and the slave push rod on the other. Pretty sure now the hydraulic system working.

It occurred to me this morning that I had installed the Nissan adjustable push rod instead of the Tilton rod, so pulled that and exchanged them, filled and bled it all again and with a little contraption I made measured the max travel of the bmw slave, 16mm, I set it to that and started the car and it still won't go into gear. Chas I took your advice and started the car 6th gear a couple of times but it didn't help. So I removed a perfectly good slave cylinder and replaced it with a brand new slave, filled, bled and gave that a try, no luck. At least now I know every part in the hydraulic system is new and working the way it is suppose to. There is a strange thing happening that I hope will sound familiar to someone, when the engine is running, the clutch pedal is depressed and I try to push it into gear, it actually makes the car roll forward VERY slowly and trying to get it into reverse it does the same thing, there is no noise. Unless anyone has any other suggestions I guess I'll start removing the exhaust system and drive shaft and see if I can drop the trans out the bottom.

Tim, can I jump in here? I think what he means when he says " factory or original" is he wants the final look to appear as if the factory might have done it, well executed and finished looking as opposed to correct for the time period. Yes? Tim, these are the grey mirrors I brought over to your place.

Hey man, how's it going, haven't seen you in a couple of yrs. I guess with this plague Zfest will be called off, are you still running my old engine or have you finished the new one you were building? Well this clutch problem has me stumped, I removed the Nissan 3/4" and installed a new 7/8" clutch MC, bled almost a litre of fluid through the system from both ends so I know there is no air in the lines. The slave is used but I took it apart and it is working fine, but the clutch pedal goes to the floor with no more resistance that the return spring and it still won't go into gear when the engine is running. I hate to even think it but I may have to drop the transmission At least the variable valve timing oil pressure is right where it should be.

Both the GM CS144 and the AD244 alternators are good alternatives, the modifications to fit a L series engine are minimal and both can put out up to 200 amps with upgrades. I used a GM CS144 on my first 240z and it was putting out 150 amps if needed, they are also inexpensive and available everywhere. Lots of good info on Hybridz, here is just one thread, https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/67531-ac-delcogm-alternator-swap-part-2-cs144-installation/?tab=comments#comment-634683

I fixed the oil cooler line then started the engine so to get it hot enough to trigger the electric fan, just before the fan turned on a coolant line I hadn't tighten fully blew off so back to cleaning the floor again. Now that is repaired I was going to take the car out for a spin, I jump in and it won't go in to gear, it seems the Datsun clutch MC is just a bit shy of enough displacement for the BMW slave cylinder. I'm pretty sure somewhere on the shelves is a 7/8" clutch MC from back in the days when I had a TR6 but that's tomorrow.

And if a vaccine isn't developed? Living in isolation for the rest of your life isn't possible and what is the point of being the last person to catch it? I'm starting to be convinced that at some point whether it's the first wave or tenth wave everyone is going to catch this thing. I guess I am playing the devils advocate a bit here but there is a limit to how long I can spend inside being careful, being afraid. I'm pretty sure at some point the good will is going to dry up and people will just want to get it over with one way or the other. I'm not there yet but I can see it coming.

Now I'm just going by memory here but I remember 240z rear wheel bearings being open and unsealed with grease packed in the spacer and of course a seal on either side whereas the 280z rear wheel bearings were completely sealed on both sides of the bearing and only a smear of grease on the inside of the spacer. When I did the bearings on the 280z I didn't pack any grease in between.

I'm in.

This doesn't sound promising, https://www.cbc.ca/news/world/south-korea-coronavirus-covid19-reactivated-positive-1.5529066

Why would they make that piece out of cast aluminum? It's always soaked in water.

Well the fuel pressure regulator might as well be coming from the moon, it is being held hostage in a USPS warehouse in Niagara Falls while my border pick up service sorts out their Covid staffing so I did a temporary soldering job on the old one and seems to be holding for now. Yesterday I got that installed, jumped in and turned the key and bloody thing started up! Could not believe it, there is always 4-5 issues to be sorted out first, I sent a big Thank You to Kassel Performance for doing such a nice reprograming job on the ECU. At least it is idling well, haven't taken it out for a run yet as I buggard one of the oil cooler lines up and have to make another one before starting it again. On the video of the second start up there is a high pitched whining tied to the revs that I'm not sure about, I'll have to post the vid to the E46 M3 forums and ask the guys if that sound is normal for an S54 engine. Then I can start doing some testing on the VVT vanos system to make sure I have the proper pressure.

I did that on the 77 280 and turned out quite presentable. Only another Z guy would take a 2nd look.

That's a pretty air tight case.

Exactly, it's everyone else who takes the blame but not the Commander and Chief.

Turn the key, Turn the key!

I still think in gauge but we should probably just stick to Imperial or Metric measurements since Nissan almost certainly didn't use gauge standard. But just as an aside, my American Standard Gauge gauge reads 20ga as .032", 19ga as .036", 18ga as .040", 17ga as .045", 16ga as .051 all of which are different from the table you posted John. All the more reason to stick to in" or mm.

Strange, that makes it 17gauge which is an odd gauge.

This worked in the last plague, much more stylish than a wash cloth.

Good question, I don't remember seeing that before, I'm guessing #3 and #12 are the same part.

This graphic is so good I'm trying to find a way to embed it in the thread but so far no luck.

Interesting graphic https://public.flourish.studio/visualisation/1539110/embed?auto=1