grannyknot

Yes, mine were so brittle they were crumbling as I pulled them off, I got this tip off of @240260280 head to a pick and pull auto yard, look for Audi and VW cars, they have connectors that fit our injectors. I got these from two Pasats 2000-2008 4 cylinder, I removed the 4 th injector plug and grafted them into the harness, think I paid $10, that Pasat also has the same plugs to fit all of the other sensors.

You definitely shouldn't be replacing grade 8 with SS and yes there are grade 8 bolts in the suspension system. SS although quite hard is not very strong, it looks pretty but it reacts with other metals just as easily as zinc covered bolts.

Degrease, scrape, clean all the areas you can't normally get to, with any rust in the front rails now is the time. Also nice to roll the engine out on the driveway, hose it down, get a can of engine cleaner and go to town. If it is not a full teardown of the car now is a good time to unwrap the wiring harness, clean or replace connectors especially grounds and repair any hacks. At least have a look at the clutch, someone may have already replaced it, it's good to replace the output shaft seal at the back of the transmission, most of them have tens of thousands of miles on them. check ujoints on driveshaft, replace steering rack bushings...

Not precious at all, paint is in a different category careful, option 3 would be my choice. Those bare metal high spots are still going to be high after the sealer, you might consider using your lightest body hammer and giving those high spots a love tap then fill with spot putty, block to 400 and see what the results are.

Decide how far you are willing to drive to see or pick up a car and start looking in those states as well, if there is a car that is too far away have a look on the members map to see if one of our members lives close enough to go have a look at it for you. I'm not actively looking for a Z at the moment either but I watch Craiglist, kijiji and Bat just i case, don't want to miss out

Lokar has everything you'll need to switch to cable, good quality but pricey, it starts on p.45 and goes on for a few pages. http://lokar.com/catalog/#page=45

Well if the engine is now at your place does that mean Jim figured out what the problem was with the rockers?

But Hello to a handful of cash.

What ZH said. I see you still have the rubber boot on the throttle linkage/ sheppard's hook, careful when removing that, very hard to find one in good shape.

I prefer the old way as well but I can see these coming in handy in those situations where there is limited access and you need 3 hands to juggle the wire, solder and torch or soldering gun. I forgot to mention I did an Ohms test because I thought there might be some resistance with that low heat solder but there was none. It is actually the solder that breaks the most with a few strands of the other wire tearing away, it was difficult to get a good pic as I was shooting through a magnifying glass. But as I mentioned I had to really haul on it to get it to snap, I guess low heat solder would have more lead in it. I might try dipping the ends of heavy ga wire in flux next time so I get better penetration to the center of the joint.

The smell, you would have to replace all of the interior to get that smell out.

So I paid for these connectors Aug.5th, just got them yesterday Oct 4th. They forgot to mention on their site that your package is drop shipped from China, I don't mind waiting if I know about the wait time. I assumed a couple of weeks, so I started emailing them, all you get is one of three different form replies apologizing and asking for more time. Very frustrating, however the product is very good. Some 14 ga and 12 ga for the test pieces, using my paint striping hot air gun on Max which is about 800* F After cooling I mounted them one at a time in the vise an pulled with a pair of ViseGrips, I really had to put my weight into them to get them to break, very good bond, It is the solder that breaks, I could have held the heat to the 12 ga wire longer and got better penetration of the solder. 50 connectors for $23 usd and 8 wks, not too bad,

It does have that submerged look.

The L series engine are very long lived, they usually start leaking from old gaskets before they are worn out. Unfortunately a lot of Z's that are up for sale have been sitting for yrs or even decades, those engines may have to be torn down if only to replace seals. I wouldn't pass up a good 240 for that reason, the 280 has its own issues just in different areas, the 240 has a much simpler electrical system and for that reason easier to diagnose. A lot of the time it comes down to bad grounds but that is true for any 40-50 yr old car.

Same here, I love that diagram, I'm in the midst of overhauling the wiring harness right now on my 77 280 and it is the real deal. Thanks for all that hard work.

Here is the speed sensor attached to the back of the Speedo, That would make sense as one of the contacts had been disconnected but here is the diagram from the schematic which is suppose to be very accurate.

1977 280z It lives in the dash between the Tach and Speedo, I can't find anything on the schematic with same colour wires.

I'm sure you can't, mine was just thrown into the bucket for replating.

Really? All I see are those prices going up. Where are you shopping for Z parts?

What stand alone system are you going to use? A stroker is perfect for your car, going to be nice.

I think that rats nest is part of the blower/heater wiring. Thanks, I just realized I did not give you credit for your pioneering efforts, CREDIT to Bruce. Yeah, just cut it off and worked a bead on to it with some modified Vise grips.

Here is the email I just received from Mike Hanson, Shop Manager for WHP, so the description on their web site should have changed to reflect what @SteveJ found. Thanks for the heads up. I've corrected the info on our product pages. Looks like i copy and pasted the info for the rear bumpers onto the front bumper pages. Definitely less work involved retrofitting a front bumper than a rear bumper. Thanks, Mike Hanson Manager, Whitehead Performance 416-665-2220

Hopefully you will be able to peel off those fiberglass panels and have untouched clean metal quarters and fenders underneath. Fingers are crossed.

Finally got all of the interior panels repaired and painted with SEM, now I can store them safely and start making a mess again. The 280 harness is a lot heavier than the 240 Here is what was hidden in the harness, How many electrical hacks can you count?

WHP is talking about modifying stock brackets, I don't think they sell brackets unless they are used. Strange, I'll email Mike Hanson at WHP and see if he will comment on it. Note: These bumpers can be used on 73 240Z’s and early 74 260Z’s however you must create or modify brackets for the installation. The easiest method is to obtain early 240Z bumper brackets, as these will fit the bumper correctly, and modify them to fit your particular application (significant modification necessary, including machine bending and often cutting & welding). Installation on late 260Z and 280Z cars is much simpler and only requires our 260Z/280Z conversion brackets for metal bumpers