Jason240z

I'm doing the largest 'Roll eyes' a man can do. The US stockpiles its own oil, it imports so it doesn't use its own resources as there's a finite amount. A trade war would cause the US to collapse(financially), that's why China is more than happy to go 'toe to toe' and even the idiot trump has to soften his stance. Countries don't 'wither away', they produce products at a price and quality others can't, hence import and export, each has its specialist products normally. What the whole world needs is a little less trump. It'd be a safer place without him.

Killing the Iranian General. NOT GOOD. NOT NEEDED. Trump would say its not going to go any further, its one conflict that wouldn't end well for anyone and neither side would 'win'. Its Trumps fault that they're moving away from peace agreements and Nuclear plans, so who out the two is the war monger here?

Not with OER's

it looks like a half cocked solution. you can get 295mm discs under 14" wheels, on a new setup you'd hope for a little more thought.

why such small discs to go under 14" wheels? Also the spacers etc?

Whens the auction? Sorry, I was thinking of this one https://bhauction.com/en/auction/tokyo-terrada-january/lots/432-r

Not much progress as i'm waiting on a few bits arriving and some time to do stuff. Got a v5 and Reg number which is ace. spent some time farting about deciding on wheel colour for its main wheels. Thought I had decided, however still not sure. Got a decent LHD dash. Got some tyres, managed to get them at a more sensible price than normal, i'm very pleased as they look so good, have amazing 'performance' reviews. https://classic.michelin.com/en/Classic-Tyre-range/MXV3-A 195/65/14. Also decided on a gearbox. Thanks to Alan T ; from a 1972 KGC10 model Skyline GT showroom option 5-speed. Ratios 3.321, 2.077, 1.308, 1.000, 0.864 and 3.382 reverse, It is an FS5C71-B flanged output transmission with Servo type synchros. Sold a load of spare bits to free up cash for all the above, met a couple of club members which was nice. Feels nice to de-clutter also. A few bits being made, so I can properly put the running gear in, might actually get an engine in it next year.

edited for better English!

A) Yes, as in the rear fit is great for me B ) No as I need to measure what movement i've got on the front before the bar hits the rail, a little more thought would be nice. I actually fixed the rear problems, as one link should be longer than the other to prevent pre tensioning the bar(due to the mounting areas being flipped on the pressings on the control arms. However lets see how they work. The rear might be a a couple of MM too thick, although its thinner than other places offered!

Got on with some bits i'd been putting off due to the 'fear' of doing it. There was a tiny bit of over 'blasting' from the second round of paint that left the bottom of the rails looking like they could suffer, along with the lovely original panel joins in the wheel well, that would be prone to water ingress, so it was stripped, etched/sealed/primed/stone chipped and painted. stone chip all under the front also. Then paint Once that was done, subframes and ARB's. Rear wheel bearings finally sorted. I've got a technique now, after all the practice I had! I shimmed the companion flange 1mm using 0.5mm shims, wheels turn nice and freely. A dry build of the front suspension I've an issue, where the lower adjuster on the front strut hits the balljoint thread. only needs 3mm to clear However a set of RCA's/bump steer spacers will do the job. Common american ones are 1" which I think is far too much, 15-18mm would do myself fine. I've concern over how close to the frame rail the front arb is. I can't remember how close the standard one is. a 'fix' would be to increase the thickness of the spacer/spreader plate under the chassis rail and cutting some length out of the distance piece on the arb link. I'll measure how much travel I get before it hits first. I did drop it on its wheels for the first time in 7-8 years.

Its not different to other parts they copy i'd guess?

This is apparently the retail price, I guess they swallow any tooling costs as they'll sell volume.

I wouldn't waste your money. The tried and tested Harada would be the way forward.

has anyone put the dash options side by side? Someone did say that some were going to get made in china, good quality and cost circa $300?

I'll work out how to repay you. You're a gent.

where can I get hold of a copy Alan?

I've been having a ruddy nightmare getting the wheel bearings right. Think I've sussed it, but needed to put a wheel on to check for play. far from ready for it. Good chance to also check my new finned alloy drums

Yeah, amazingly effective, I could see the grease pushing through the bearings on the inner side, even after i'd loaded the bearings.

I've done the other side, I think what was happening is that when I pressed the hub side in, it was pushing the bearings back out on the inner side, and vice-versa. Once the nuts turn up i'll torque and check. Either that or I had an issue with both my original stub axles. What I did do was fit a grease nipple so I can load the hub up with grease as part of a 'service' so hopefully, once done they should last my lifetime.

So, it now seems to be 'fixed'. Need to torque the hub nut up properly, however for some reason, another shaft/rear wheel hub seems to have sorted it. Going to torque it up correctly shortly to be 100%.

i'm hoping to sort this now i've some 'car time' coming up. along with buying another full set of bearings.

you mean this as a start....... https://www.kxii.com/home/headlines/Marshall-County-man-faces-six-felony-charges-304026481.html also selling cars and buying back between him and some of his BAT buddies....

Yes, its had one of his underside blow overs it seems, where he then also goes to excess trying to recreate factory paint marks. Nice to see his boyfriends in the comments section.

lets be clear, hes not the 'authority on all things z'.

I like his overspray jobs!