siteunseen

"Pay it forward" has new meaning to me after the help I've received from these nice folks on this forum. I'm always trying to return the help too but it's premature mostly. :stupid:

I've got pretty much the same car, runs good just needs a paint job, with only $3,000 out of pocket and $20 of that is in Band-Aids and Neosporin.

Fusible link refresh, the very bottom of the page. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Those 2 "Security" screws are a PITA. I used a Dremel to cut a slit in them and then a flat screwdriver to turn them out. One good thing is they're not too tight so just a small slit will give you enough grab to turn them. Leave the phillips head screws in to keep weight off while you work them out. You might could use one of those extractor type drill bits to get them out, I don't have one but do have a Dremel. It's not too hard, just slow, and you have to be extra careful around the wiring.

That's the same town my 240 came from, West of I-65. Could be the same guy, him and his Dad were into Z car's.

I bought this from JEGS for $167, Xenon #3125. Took about 4 hours to put it on, I had already removed the front bumper and half of a finger nail a couple of weeks ago. The instructions were as clear as mud so I thought I might make it simple for the 9/74 to '78 one. The instructions say remove the body pan? You only need to remove the 2 small 1/4 panels under the headlight buckets. If you leave the middle skid pan it gives it something to rest on. Though it's not secure and could vibrate I'll end up putting a bolt or screw or something when I drive it again. Squirt the bolts and nuts a day before you start. I used the bottom of the turn signals as a reference for measuring down in the middle. I buggered the holes out a little, a little adjustment before tightening down. It turned out good, I'm happy with the look for now, fiberglass bumper is next!

Do have a KTM bike to match the car? If you do you're my new hero!

That looks great! You'll get a lot of looks from that color.

How old is your radiator? You'll have to remove it, might as well get a new one.

Eloquent words for an uneloquent question. You must have kids.

Don't try and crank it yet, there's things to be done 1st. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/introductions-z-stories/22619-waking-sleeping-beast.html Post #8

Maypops! May pop today, may pop tomorrow.

That's a great find that you weren't even looking for, wow!

You put a new meaning to refurbing mine, I did about 60% of what you've done and just got some bellows of e-bay. But I'm slowly learning, I've got another one now to do. Thanks for the part number.

Aisin is a major Toyota supplier. I just bought a water and oil pump for my Camry, all aluminium except the belt gear. Here's one at amazon.com for $13 bucks, Amazon.com: 240z water pump: Automotive

I'm vested in a 401Z plan.

Those wouldn't rust but other than that obvious observation I couldn't say. I think you'll be fine with the lock washers it's just a shame MSA has that great header with that crappy stud kit you could get at any hardware store for way cheaper than $20 they charge.

I see that too! Mr Beck said in a post the other day that $5,000 would buy a rust bucket down in Florida. I got a steal on mine.

I'm sorry for not having this sooner, I was a little late waking up this morning. I went through my re build file and found this number on a receipt, Nissan #14039-W1500. I'm almost positive that's the smaller ones on my head studs in the middle because I bought 10, the other 2 are the big ones posted above. And the anti-seize isn't a must so don't sweat it if you already have them in, it was recommended in a book I went by to prevent corrosion and rust in the future. Did you put the longer threads on the stud in the head? I'm asking because I have about a 1/4" of threads above the nuts on mine but I put the short end in the head.

Is that heavy duty wiring harness from BD the same one Z's on da brain makes? Says it pulls power off the battery instead of the combo switch.

25 lbs on the studs? No. Barley tighten them in the head, the nuts on top of the manifolds do all the work. And use Anti-Seize in the head holes, steel going into aluminum.

Theses are the ones I used on the ends because they break sooner, 2 I tapped out to the #10 size. They were for an 8 cylinder Nissan truck. The smaller ones are a part number close to what's in the picture but I can't remember right now. If you go to the dealer they'll be able to find you the ones, I believe he said they are on older Altimas and other smaller motors, I think they were #8s. Just make sure it won't finger tighten, the out of round manifold nuts will just turn on a couple of threads with your fingers but if you tighten it then take one back off then you've ruined the self locking function. Sorry I can't be more helpful but it's been awhile and my nogin ain't too spongy anymore. If you have a Fastenal in your area they'd probably have them.

I'll guess for an ATV?

Get out of round nuts from your Nissan dealership. The ones from MSA spin down too easily on the stud threads which means they'll spin up too causing another exhaust leak. Or you could re-torque them once a year.

Thanks for the pictures, it looks great, and the moral support. I'm about 2 years in myself and just now starting on the outside! I'm waiting for a front spoiler just like your's. I'm having it painted Gunmetal grey to match my wheels and want the bumper satin black. Then have the car sprayed original 305 blue. Thanks again for some inspiration.