siteunseen

One tip, make 2 piles. One for the front carb, the second for the back carb. Make sure to keep those parts separate.

I know a turbo needs a turbo ECU from reading hybridz.org. If there's a substitute I'd think it would be something aftermarket, like Megasquirt?

Where did you put the sensor? Any pictures would be appreciated. I'm dying to do this to mine! I love gauges.

You did the right thing. Red bird, the 240, will live on instead of wasting away and your the coolest chick in town, sporting around in a 280Z. Life is good!

He's turning something other than the mixture knobs. I bet he's trying to raise the rpms. FWIW

For the tenth time, turn the adjustment knobs all the way clockwise. That will bring the nozzles all the way up. THEN!!! turn them COUNTER CLOCKWISE 2.5 turns, lowering them which adds fuel. You're welcome for the choke light help, Napoleon.

I can't remember how to set the needle right off my head this morning, it's a little fuzzy. I'll scan through the DVD today and see how, it's something simple. Maybe someone else will remember for me. That DVD is a treasure at the bottom of the sea, but watching it is like the boat ride to the treasure. It's a little rough and makes me motion sick.

Did you get the Zoeller Turd Turbo? Mine shoots up to my neighbor's basin.

Hey S30 driver man. Do you have a part number for your carpet kit? I've been looking at getting ACC 16605. Is that written anywhere on yours? Mine is the early one with the sloped rear deck. Thank you!

My floats before adjustment, overflowed. Set the top of the float .550" from the underside of the lids. And the front carb has the taller float valve, if they're the same, add washers.

That sounds awesome. Maybe we met at ZCON? I had the Memphis Shakes. I read all that too and decided to stay with what Nissan did originally, probably the only thing on my car that's that way.

That exit runs through the intake manifold then to the thermostat housing on my 240. Coolant circulates through there to help on cold starting, that's with SUs. A lot of folks remove that stuff, less chance of leaks? FWIW

There's a small switch where the choke bracket is under the console that activates that light. If the wire to it gets disconnected the light will not work. EDIT: There's two wires, red with a blue stripe and solid red. Mine broke loose. This is where yours may be unplugged, on the driver's side under the console. You have to unplug that connector to remove the console.

240s must not use them. I don't see them and don't remember ever seeing them anywhere. My red ones in storage so no comparisons.

You've taken hair off the top of my head with that. I don't understand? My bad. Didn't see the other post. I'll get them and see, I'd forgotten about ole #9.

I'll have shave some off. 8 (

I have some new engine mounts that are very tight. I could Dremel the rubber and make them fall in place. Don't want to take away any rubber and they will slide into the engine bracket ears from the side. My question, can I put the engine mounts onto the brackets then lower the motor in taking special care not scar the threads on the mounts (they came with plastic sleeves over them, add some tape at the bottom). Then I'd have to hit one hole per side where the perch is. Has anybody done it this way? Thanks for any replies.

Can she drive past her mailbox now? I'll have leisurely read the blog when it ever rains again.

Yes, congratulations, 2 for $500! You have some work ahead but you're ahead of the game already, 22 and your dream car was a 240Z. You'll get all the help you can stand from here.

Somebody said something I've not heard before the other day, FUEL INFECTION That's pretty good.

Please tell us newbies what those marks were for. I've never seen or read anything about that and am curious to know. Also thank you for bringing this up when you did, I'm painting my motor and thought the oil pan was blue. And I see the motor mounting brackets are black with blue over spray. Thanks!

Great minds...... Read Fastwomans nice permanent solution, post #66. One of these days maybe my life will slow down and I can do it to mine. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/37549-purs-like-a-kitten/page-4

I misunderstood your tab reference, sorry. I thought you were talking about the rubber stopper under the dome. Now I know. Take the 4 screws out. Turn the float chamber lid 90 degrees counter clockwise. there's 2 indentations on the sides of the lid. You'll have to gently wiggle it around the tab, keeping it flat against the bowl, working the indentations under the tab. It'll pull up and out.

You can do without those rubber tabs. I cut mine off, they're for alignment and if you get the screws in barely tighten them and raise the piston in the carb body. If it falls at a smooth rate tighten the screws. I'd pull the valve cover off and work that arm that rides against the cam nose by hand until you get fuel to the float chambers. You can check for fuel in the chambers by sticking a red WD-40 straw down the overflow bung then pull it out to see if it's wet.

I would try what Chas has recommended, it's cheap and easily done and reversible. Heck, mine runs so much better with the potentiometer I just coiled up the wire and threw it in the passenger's floorboard. I guess I should explain that better. I bought the volume knob at Radio Shack, $3.95, solder it to about 6 feet of speaker wire on one end and put the appropriate "butt"? connectors on the other end. Ran the wire through the firewall, plugging it into the wires behind the thermostat. The adjustable knob inside with me, drove it for a month adjusting little bits at a time until it was perfect (to me). Before I did it, it would cough spit and sputter until 2,500 RPM then pull like normal. Now it'll paint black marks out of my driveway, with a little clutch work.