siteunseen

Nice looking car! Looks almost identical to mine so I'll be watching this for some ideas/tips. I sure was happy to get rid of my Yorx a/c compressor and that pulley bracket, it was inop anyway and a huge pain in the butt.

That's the same as my early '72, pointer and pulley. I think it would be worth the time figuring out if your timing chain sprocket lines up with the TDC markings. I've got that stuff outside in a storage building and if I took each piece and took a picture of them separate then you would be able to figure it out. I'll try and get that together for you asap but it's COLD!!! down here. A quick way to look and see if it's close is look at the front of the pulley at TDC. The notch on the crank's nose where the "key lock"? slides in should be pointed straight up. I found a thrust plate in my guest/junk room. If you'll look through the hole on the cam sprocket, to the left you'll see a notch on the backside of the sprocket and in that notch you should see a small line to the left of the bolt on the thrust plate. The whole reason I'm saying this is because it may be as easy as moving the cam sprocket to the next hole. They have #1, #2 and #3 for adjusting out the chain stretch.

2 inch is what I have, it's a good tight fit. two and a quarter inch would be perfect and would go all the way down and sit flat over the opening. That one over the shift coupler is an inch and a half I believe.

Thank you! Here's the ones I need, latch area of hatch door. https://zcardepot.com/weatherstripping/gaskets-grommets/hatch-rubber-plug-grommet-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-78.html

fantastic! Thank you again. checked 240rubberparts.com and found nothing for the hatch. I need to measure, probably be wise.

Thank you for that info. I have a piece of Gorilla tape over the passenger's side in my 240, luckily the carpet hides it but I'd like another plug and haven't been able to find one yet. Any ideas for the two on the hatch bottom? Thanks!

I think of that every time I type Blue, my favorite is when they tie the block to his "soft porn" body part for impregnating females with a longer rope and chunk it off the roof. FYI, he outed himself about a week ago. I believe he's trying to beat my high "reputation score" & doing a damn fine run up.

I'll leave it be, mine ran hot. Sorry to contradict what you've said Bruce.

Do you have a thermostat in your race car @Jeff G 78? I understand the eddy loop you speak of CO. I have a river thankfully running through here. The slews are stagnet but the main channel is clean.

From the link in post four. Counter intuitive is an attorney wearing a pony tail. No matter how good they are the judge still looks down on them.

I think I will try the 5s and now maybe I understand the reason they changed, thank you Blue. " However, with today’s cleaner-burning oxygenated unleaded gas, an equivalent engine needs to run plugs about 1-2 heat ranges hotter than originally specified (many plug manufacturers have revised their catalogs accordingly).

I've always put the BP6ES plugs in my cars. I did the ZX distributor swap on my 240, '79 ZX dizzy and coil and just widened the gap. Now I'm bored and go to NGK's website to see what's recommended for the '79 ZX. They say BPR5ES so I went to a couple of parts stores online and they say the same thing and have them on the shelves, the 6s have to be "shipped to home, non stocking item" Please advise!!! Seriously, anybody have any advice/experience for this?

I'll just pull the head gasket off and let it mix.

If you take the ones in the floorboards out you'll see the ground on a 240, I've not taken the ones out of my 280. You can pop them out from the underside and putting them back is easy, if they're not too dry and brittle.

The rubber goes in between the base mount and the AFM to lessen the vibrations. The ground goes under the base mount, if I remember right, it's been a few years.

I guess my temp gauge was reading hot because of the friction created by the coolant flowing over the temp sensor in the housing so fast?

Removing the thermostat's restriction is like running the a/c with the windows down. The thermostat slows the coolant down and allows it to cool the motor. If it was to pass through too fast it won't cool. I made that mistake on my first Z in 1986. FYI

And get rid of that shiny aluminum radiator.

This the first one I glued sometime this past summer. Off and on at least four times. Just don't over tighten the screws. I understand you have bigger problems I'm just bored. Here's some pictures of what ZH is talking about. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html

While you have the floats detached from the lids put a small amount of black RTV or whatever fuel resistant adhesive around the bottom of the lids and glue the cork gaskets to the lids. The thin layer dries fast so do one at a time. Without the floats you can get the lids on quicker. Put the screws in and slightly tighten them down leaving the lid on overnight. You won't have to worry with those gaskets for a long time. How many turns out are the nozzles? If you have the floats close then 2.5 counter clockwise should be good while you figure out the timing. If your float tangs were that high I'd bet you had to run the nozzles way down, like 4 or 5 turns? That would blacken those plugs now that the float level is close. Hit them with a wire brush or wheel and see if they're still good. good luck

I tried that first and realized that after someone mentioned AN fittings to Jalex Jeff bowed out, frustrated I'm sure. Here's as close as we got,

Here's the only guy I've read that has done it, no pictures though. Maybe he'll see this and put one up, do you have one @Jeff G 78?

Another thing that affects idle is the TPS. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

That could be the BCDD, either out of adjustment or bad. Could be the dashpot? Or the fuel tank is clogged up. Have you put a Fram G3 clear filter coming out of the tank? BCDD instructions. Mine went to a high RPM when I came to a stop but yours maybe the opposite? Anti-stall dashpot shoots a rod out and catches a throttle linkage flat to keep them from doing what yours is doing when you let off the pedal. You'll have to look at it and see for yourself how it works (or doesn't). Google "280z dashpot" for more info, I can't find anything other than they only come on manual transmission cars. Fram filter instructions, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm