siteunseen

There's a trick Tom Monroe uses in his book I can scan tomorrow morning for you to read. It helped me get mine right on the first or second try. Something about putting one bolt in and turning the pump body to cover the other bolt holes then push it the rest of the way on. I'll get it for you to read over and see what you think, asap Saturday a.m

Cleaning those sensors in the thermostat housing is cheap and easy to do. 220 grit sandpaper works good.

If you get in a bind with the exhaust hanging let us know, we've all been there before, they can be a pain the in rectum.

If your teacher has an interest, and he should, that's your best bet. Act like you want to sale it but DON'T.

Whoof! You have a previous owner's jimmy rigging to sort out. We can help but you need to get a wiring diagram first, that's what eveybodies gonna say. Play the game, you'll get answers you need. Best of luck.

You need to find the radio power wire and tap it up. Sounds like it's bare and blowing fuses.

A battery charger is what I'm talking about.

A 2 amp all night charge works for mine, I don't drive it enough to keep up the charge. Your alternator belt could be loose also. You could try spraying the turn signal stalk with electrical cleaner, CRC makes a good product.

Your next initiation is replacing my struts. My turn signals give me problems when my battery charge is low. After a good charge they work fine. Probably not causing your problem but it's worth a try.

Looks like good timing to me. That friction disc and pressure plate have seen better days. Are you going to resurface the flywheel?

I'm sorry but I haven't had a chance to look yet, I'm curious too. Here's what I'm going to follow,

Breaking up under a load can be a bunch of stuff. How long since you did a tune up, new rotor button and a distributer cap? It could be jumping spark under the cap.

I think I used a round sander on a dremmel for the grinding.

Yeah, in my garage. It was cold outside. If it's not moving enough to lock it in gear, it should pop out as soon as the clutch releases its hold.

I remember how I got mine right, now. Running car in 5th, let out the clutch and pops immediately. Ground a little put it all back cranked the car and let the clutch out. It moved. Then popped out. Ground some more. Cranked the car and let the clutch out. 5 feet then it popped out. Repeat, then it moved to the front of the garage. The next day I drove it in 5th for the first time. 75mph at 2,200 rpms.

Mine to. ZX transmission with a Z curved shifter. The ZX shifter stood straight up in my car.

Beautiful!

"There's your sign"

Could I do a Z themed Bed & Breakfast up there? You're doing what's left to do to mine and I can't seem to find the energy right now, damn it. Kidding about the b&b, I have a dog.

That hose is not supposed to be over your shift rod.

Looks like cuts on that hose over the shifter. Cut that off I'd think.

What does the shift rod show? There's your biggest clue IMHO. You have a C clip to pop off, push the pin through to remove the shifter.

I think it's to keep cigarette butts, earrings and roaches out of the cup the shift rod goes in. Oh yeah, exhaust smell too.

That's a good idea, thanks. Preventive maintenance at it's best. 8^)