siteunseen

Don't feel bad. I was working on my heater core and water **** valve and got the same.

Sorry I'm a little behind but I did find the threads that should cover all my "Tips" If I can help in any way let me know. Cliff PS, here's some more on cleaning the tank. A lot of reading but it's best to be prepared, acid and the red-kote are time sensitive so get a plan together and write it down. Four empty 5 gallon buckets and some baking soda added to your list.

Real basic run through. Clean it with hardware store muratic acid. Rinse with denatured alcohol. Pour in a quart of red kote tank liner. Let it sit until you can't smell the chemicals, cured. Replace the evap hoses during that week. Reinstall the tank. Google "red kote instructions" and read that to sorta see what to do. Cost me $100 for everything. $50 on chemicals and another $50 for evap hoses and clamps. I already had the plastic retainers you'll need to replace the interior panels in the hatch. $10 from Nissan. Have the part numbers for those too. Takes my local dealership a couple of days to get them. I'll be more thorough with my next post. 8^)

I see that link in my post #30 is unavailable now for some reason. When we went to the waaay better version Mike's got now somethings didn't make it. No big deal I still have all my photos and remember the threads that were most helpful. We're supposed to get some much needed rain on Monday. If so I'll be able to spend some time on my laptop and can, hopefully, put up some helpful info and tips/tricks that helped me out a lot. That is a weekend job and the tank liner should be allowed a week to cure. It's a PITA but if you do it right you'll never have to worry about again. Cliff

I'm about 2.5 hours. Come up with something I can't refuse! "North bound and down, loaded up and truckin'". "Watch ole Datsun runnin' we gone do what pays the easy money"

I saw one with Tennessee plates so yeah the land of cotton and some other good stuff comes from down here, look away look away. It's hotter than 3 foot up a goats arse today and the next few months though so be thankful for where you are ole Buddy!

Well thank you sir! That's awful nice of you to go out of your way instead of just clicking "LIKE". In my expirences when you get on the brakes and you get a shaky wheel your rotors are warped, usually from being hot then driving through a puddle of water on the roadside. Hot then cold warps them. Try a cut to get it out but if it's too bad and they'll tell you at the parts store if they're too far gone so you'll buy new ones. They're only $20 or so bucks so not too bad. When and if you decide to do that I would reccomend new wheel bearings to. They aren't expensive, $5 to $10 per side. There's info on this site a bbb out driving the old ones out and the new ones on. Get a tub of grease and slop them full. I'll try to find my post from when I did it in the morning, not too easy on this phone. Thanks again for saying thanks, that's what drives me to help out others.

Man that's depressing. Z graveyard.

Shot in the dark but the vane in the afm could be stuck or in the tps. Spider webs got mine one time.

WTF? Dr Frankenstein. I didn't know you had a bike, another rung on the cool ladder.

Yes, sharp car! You'll find a lot of info and helpful owners on this site. We have guys that bought them new and still daily drive. Your complete interior could've possibly been a color change from white to black? Some of those blue 240s came with white and after a short time they age to a bone white color. I had one with white and did not like it, not my style. I would suggest upgrade the electrical system if it hasn't been done already. Stronger alternator off the ZX and electronic ignition distributor also from the ZX. Headlight relay upgrade and other stuff you'll read about. Have fun and keep us updated.

I try to save money when I can but for $35 at amazon, hard to get any easier in my opinion.

Yes! They have that same slant towards the "1". Maybe I will need shims? Thanks for posting that pic. Hoping for the best on your rebuild.

For what it's worth mine was cut once since I've owned it to straighten it, can't remember the thousandth though but here's where mine is against the E31 stamp. My machinist told me it wouldn't need to be shimmed?

Down here "two wishin' parents for a Pell Grant"

I can see you have a high performance air cleaner like I had one time. Bought this motor for the carbs.

Me and you both! It would've been a race to Kentucky. I should have known after Mr Pilgrim mentioned it. Oh well, mo money mo problems.

I catch hell for this I know but pull the hose off the fuel filters bottom and put it a gas jug. Straight wire the pump. Speaker wire with alligator clips on the pump works great straight to the battery. Bypasses all the safety stuff so be careful and don't burn it up. The Bosch oe pump has a small cone shaped screen on the inlet port that could be clogged. I've had to drop two tanks acid wash the inside and then coat with red-kote tank liner. The old Zs weren't coated from the get go.

+1 on the cold beverage! I found while doing my two Zs front end you can jack the front end up and get the tires off the ground. Then use a small bottle jack or some pieces of wood if you dont have small jack and raise the tires up enough to get the pressure off the tie rod. Use a fork you can borrow for no charge at a chain parts store. Get the nut off and it'll pop right off without much effort once you take away the pressure. The threaded stud should be as straight up and down as you can get it. If it's at an angle it is a PITA.

I'm just getting up so still a little fuzzy but I can only think of the two hoses on my air cleaner box that connect to the over flow bung on the float bowls of the carbs. I'll look later and let you know for sure. There is a vacuum block mounted below the coil but I'll be damned if I can remember what it does right now?

Click that post and scroll down for the pictures.

I bought a cheap blasting pot from Harbor Freight and bead blasted them. It turned out so nice but made such a mess I went back and bought a blasting cabinet that sits inside my garage and uses a shop vac to suck the dust out. I am playing with new blue jeans and making them look aged now, I get bored. After blasting I used a high heat satin clear coat for aluminum.

The OE bungs are BSPT threads but NPT will work. Just have to tighten them and make new threads in the soft aluminum. Use teflon tape or some type of liquid thread sealer. Okay I'm done, scatter brained. 8^)

I forgot but all you need to do is take the bungs off the balance tube and take them with you and match them up to plugs.

I think it "240z balance tube plugs classiczcars.com"