siteunseen

I'm almost positive those lights come out through the back. No need to remove the finisher panel. I would do this first. Mine were bad dried up and cracked. Zed Head reccomendation on sealing that vinyl access panel on the inside bottom of the hatch would be next, for me. I had my spoilers painted and removed them. While that piece was off I was overwhelmed with fumes. DUI defense?

Thats the right numbers, I googled them real quick.

Google/images these numbers to make sure. The date matches up to my new tail lights purchase butt they have different descriptions and are priced a couple more bucks for one than the other? Same exact gaskets just different sides. 26552-E4100 RIM-COMB LAMP $34.29 26557-E4100 GASKET-LAMP $28.96 I've got pictures on my laptop I can post in the morning. I'm using my phone at the moment. I'll check back in the a.m Cliff

Wouldn't the rear spoiler disrupt the "back draft" effect on his car, for better or worse? I've got the part number for the tailight rubber if you need them. Still available from Nissan, my local dealership ordered mine. Maybe that's why I have no smell but I was thinking my spoiler caused it to ramp up and away instead of rolling back into the hatch area? What kind of shape is the rubber boot under the leather boot at the shifter?

What about adding a tip extension on the muffler?

Retraction! Can't do squat from my phone. Locks up every time. 8^(

I put 2 four inch Pyles from walmart behind the headrest on my '77. Fit perfect and cost $30 or something close plus the oe front speaker, sounds good sitting in the garage but fire it up with the header and 2.5" exhaust from msa and I just as well sing to myself, "hold me closer, Tony Danza" by Elton John.

'96 Sentra for sale, $800 to a friend, $1,000 to a stranger. A man that sleeps in this heat has to make mortgage payments regardless. 8^) Refraction: car's being sold to my niece.

I'm fighting mine for covers right now! Spoiled rotten early on.

I learn more about our Country watching television on the 4th than 12 years in public schools. Don't blow your fingers off and let the dog inside tonight during the fireworks show.

I'm glad you posted that. I need to permanently set my potentiometer with meter. It's a volume knob that I've adjusted by the seat of my pants and the TEMP gauge. It's been laying in the passenger's floorboard for a couple of years now.

The repair article I found, http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

Possibly in the combination switch? I have know idea but they do power through there and arc a little when turned on causing carbon build up. That's why I'm limiting my night driving until I get Dave Erwins headlight upgrade.

I got in my 280 one night and found I had no dash lights. After reading a bunch of possible causes I came across this "How to Repair" for a 240Z which is pretty much the same. After I did this they were much brighter and the dimmer knob actually made a difference when I turned it. http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf Here's a picture of the top side, the carbon build up is under this.

The first two lobes should be like a V, not straight up, maybe 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock?

There's an article on flipping the carbon covered plates in the combo switch. I can post it tomorrow. It really brightened mine up.

Your right Jai, love is blind. I've been down that road before and that's why I said what I did, experience. I had an '81 911 that I loved and worked on constantly spending a life's savings. Sold it and bought a Camry then I was able to buy the Zs from cutting my losses with the Porsche. I apologize for speaking my mind but as stated above you could spend $1,500 at least on a good a/c for Red Bird. Hopefully a $100 worth of R-12a Red Tek will get you through the summer. I just got a Nissan Sentra with cold air for $500. It's not pretty but runs good and gets 35 MPG plus bone chilling air. Cheap grocery getters are out there. I don't see how you do it, I'm 47 and can hardly get out of mine. Working on it myself saves me money but I turn around and spend that on pain pills and stay in bed the next day.

When my dizzy is spinning with the motor at 2,500 rpms those weights are out? The vacuum advance should stay unhooked and plugged at high rpms too like setting initial timing at idle? I'm going to understand this one way or the other!

I'm thinking if you removed the float chamber lids you'd see something similar to mine when I first bought the car. The floats should sit fairly level or parallel with the lids. The opposite of my picture.

So simply put, set the initial to 17 degrees at 750 RPMs. Since I have 8.5 weights, add 17 for a total of 34 degrees on my dial back light. At 2,500 RPMs with the light set to 34 I should adjust the distributor until the big notch (TDC) on the pulley lines up with the pointer, 0 degrees. That would give me total advance of 34. Drive it and see how it performs? What should the vacuum pull on the front carb be at 2,500 RPM? I'll hook my vacuum gauge up and get some numbers and report back. Thanks guys

It's not a problem with the fuses, I had a bad alternator. I like the 280 fuse panel better than the 240, more fuses that single out more circuits. When that one fuse blew on my 240 it killed just about everything the key activates. Your's will be fine now that it has a fuse in there. The fusible links in the engine bay is a whole other story. Lot's of people upgrade those. You can't buy one at the local 7-11 when they melt.

I was going off my 240. When I had a bad alternator in there it popped that fuse as soon as I turned the key. I read it was back charging through the ignition circuit and burning that fuse. On a 240 it's a single 20 amp fuse. Glad you fixed it. 8^)

Google images SUs too for reference or go to Ztherapy. Com for more images. I about to go out dancin' and chasing thongs. I'm no help.

Read this thread, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/39221-quick-and-dirty-su-tuning/