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This is sitting in my garage, no airflow with a 180 thermostat. It gets to 175-180 & opens. The first picture is the cast iron impeller in an aluminum housing, 173. The second one is a cheapo GMB from a local chain store, 164. Well hell, I can't find the 173F pic. It'll be hiding between healthy and heavy. A follow up will follow.

Verdammt! You have a nice place with nice toys. No neighbor promblem, room for "Field of Dreams" diamond. Beautiful car and background.

Thank you Zed Head! A new one is $80, errr reman... Maybe I could change that out? You all remember the commercial where the guy was trying to drive a square peg into a round hole, and his work mate says "hit it again!". Funniest commercial ever. I've learned from this forum to "ASK, somebody has done it a dozen times". I'm glad I ask. 8^)

Problem found, easy fix for some $$$. Thank you all for the help. I charged the battery to 12.33 V. Disconnected the alternator wires and checked the battery 24 hours later and it read 12.35! I need to pull the bottom radiator hose to get the alternator out from the topside. Probably needs fresh coolant anyhow. Thanks again, Cliff

Do you remove the 3 screws then the dome, the piston and the the nozzle tube is visible then? Turn the motor over with the coil wire off then look down in there with a flashlight and look for fuel just barely NOT spilling out of the nozzle's tube? I've never done this but my floats are so close now I think I want to give this a try. Best thing I've ever done was to put two rear carb lids on mine, both are short eared so no extra washers or spacers, valves are both short from ztherapy.com so that eliminated all the fuss with stacking washers. That's the quickest and easiest "close enough" check I've ever done. Worked good enough for me to see how far off mine were and desperately needed more adjusting. This is a photo from zkars or jarvo2, maybe both? Simple to do. Here's how high mine were, if you can see the fuel in the hose way up high where the float chamber meets the lid's top. Forgot to add I did this off the car with an electric fuel pump but it can be done a lot easier on the car. I was rebuilding the motor at the time.

Try yahoo japan auctions. Good luck, I like those.

What got him talking, using words I'd never heard was the Shelby Daytona and SC Cobra, think they didn't make the homologation rule?

That's what that fellow was saying, he saw one at the Walter Mitty Race. I told him I thought there was one this year at Road Atlanta. Maybe he'll go he says? He has been to Road Atlanta many times. The guy had a lot of information inside his head, things I'd never heard before. Homologation rules for race cars? I thought 'what the hell?" Then I googled it and there it was. Then he says "don't use google, use startpage.com- it's way more private" so I'm playing around on there now! So much to learn, so little time.

Talked to a guy last night that said some things I'd never heard of. It's all true too. Transmission bolts straight up to the differential in a Cheetah.

Another worry of mine on the coolant flow. @240260280 mentioned running a bypass from the t-stat housing to the inlet for the radiator. I bypassed my coolant line through the intakes on my 240. Is there any reccomendation on the hose size? I'm worried too big will suck all the coolant at that bypass and short the supply through the motor. Maybe 3/16" or 1/4" 5/16"? I'm gonna go around the front of the head and use a Z inlet with the extra bung for the coolant line off the warming plate that 280s have. Maybe it's metal line? I can't remember, I've deleted all that. Thanks for any advice, thoughts. These little things keep me up at night. 8^(

Z24, 4 cylinder with 8 spark plugs. I've pulled boats and Exmark commercial mowers without any stumble. Just overheats the clutch and turns the flywheel blue backing up driveways. So disconnect the alternator and leave the truck alone overnight. If the battery has the 12 plus volts in the morning I know the alternator is bad. Simple enough, thank you guys. 8^) Cliff

Thanks Steve! Could I just take belt off the alternator instead of unhooking those old brittle connections? After disabling the alternator how long will it run until the battery falls flat? No vampires except the radio clock. I've got that fuse in the ashtray and singing some classic rock, the only thing I know the words to. Thanks again @SteveJ

This is for my '87 Hardbody Pickup so I apologize in advance. I am having tremendous battery drain every night, completely dead in the mornings and I can smell what smells like burnt wiring. The alternator is putting out 15.6 volts while at idle, measured at the battery terminals. After it sits for more than 30 minutes I have to roll start it or jump it off. After reading around a online I think the voltage regulator is shot. I haven't done the meter in line and start pulling fuses yet, maybe this afternoon I'll do that. Any advice would be appreciated. I like that old truck as much as my Zs, well almost. 300,001 back in November 2013. Now it has 350,000 without any major work, clutches spark plugs and oil.

Thank you both. The stamped one I have has what appears to be a brass impeller. I know outboard boat motors have a metal tab above the prop to ground out the electrolysis they create, otherwise they eat up the aluminium on the lower unit. Hopefully that will not be a problem. The cheaper stamped pumped actually has a little smoother feel when turning it by hand, felt like better bearings or seals? Anyway we'll see today when I fill it up with coolant and go for a drive. The cast pump puts the gauge needle dead on the far right leg of the M in "TEMP". Maybe I can get it down to the left leg? Another thing I thought of last night, the cast impeller is more of a water wheel than an impeller. It takes the water and moves it in the direction it needs to go, so the backside is irrelevant. It feels good to work on the Z again, my back hurts but I have something for that.

I had a small coolant leak I've been watching for the past year. It was getting moved around by the fan and misting up my engine bay. So today I put a GBM stamped impeller pump that was practically new. I've always considered the OE cast impeller design to be better but after comparing the area of coolant passage in both I'm thinking the GMB has more movement. Any thoughts, opinions? I'd like to hear from you guys please. Doesn't a fan with no restriction on the back side flow more air?

I watched that the other day and was amazed how clean and well thought out the in car camera driver ran that race. One of the best I've seen. Very much worth a look.

Train crash in S.C

Glad to know you're okay Steve. @madkaw

That's why I did it and easier removal of the whole set-up, that little 90 degree hose is a pain.

Saw this in a local for sale magazine. I'm not even gonna call about it, don't have the money right now or the time

Ouch! Glad your okay too. The last accident I had was my fault, first time ever, but now days I have insurance and a driver's license so they let me leave the scene and drive off without going to jail.

Maybe this?

I have mine plugged, never thought about running a line from the T stat housing to the pump inlet. That would be easy to do now that I think about it, just go around the front of the head like the 280s. I can't tell any difference in the way mine runs since I did that, drove it a couple of years with the flow now over a year without. I finally got the flow going back through the heater core after replacing the hoses and the control valve. I never run mine hard until the TEMP gauge gets set at normal after reading where somebody on here had theirs dead headed and romped on it cold and blew one of the core plugs out. Can't have that. I did mine at the circles and also the intakes.

That's like sweeping the bars around here, if you don't mix in you don't ever win.

Buy a lotto ticket, you lucky guy! You gotta split your winnings with CO & grannyknot.