siteunseen

I have to leave that wingnut in the cover when removing. Just get it loose and leave it in and pull the cover.

Tank looks good! You say they baked it to cure the liner? I learned, after a lot of reading, to not put fuel in until the smell of the Red-Kote is completely gone.

I run the oe rear bumper for safety and the 240 bumper up front for looks with a xenon front spoiler. Kinda bass ackwards as I drive my 240 with thin bumpers front and rear more than than the 280. I always think of those old Pinto public safety commercials. $350 for a boil out and recoat!?! I may start a side business for the busy, 'cause I'm not too busy and enjoy pouring the muratic acid on all these damn ant beds on my property.

yes you can but you'll have to remove the oil pump, take the spindle drive out then remove the distributor and come in with a steel rod flatenened like the spindle gear and spin it counter clockwise or reverse on your drill. I found the thread that explains it all. here's mine running half speed on a drill, be careful or it'll shoot out running on high.

The cold gap for setting the lash on these motors is .010" for the exhaust and .008" for the intakes. I bought a similar unfinished project that came with triple webers and a over bored .030" block with dished pistons. I never fooled with that stuff though and ran the dual SUs carbs like you have pictured and the stock 2.4 motor. Great running fun car that never gave me any trouble. Your SUs in one picture is missing the vent bung on top of the float chamber lid. It looks good to me as is. I'd put some molly grease on the cam lobes and pour 10W-30 all over the rest, especially the timing chain, and turn the cam sprocket bolt with a 27mm socket by hand to make sure it's not binding. Plugs out with some oil squirts in those 6 holes too. Good luck. Oh yeah, a great book to get that helped me go from outboard boat motors and dirt bike engines to the L series Nissan's https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030

I apologize for forgetting to do this earlier but here is a picture that should give you the basics of what I did on the 5/8" evap hose on top of my fuel tank, the 180 degree bend. 3/4 PEX elbow fits 5/8" fuel hose nice and snug, use the worm clamps like in this picture. I laid the old hose on the floor and copied the bend with the new hose and PEX fittings. If you need anything else let me know. Cliff

You might find something useful with these pictures. My 9/76 280. I used this write up to repair mine a few years ago. Mainly cleaning the carbon off and flipping the plates over to make better contact. I'd lost my dash lights but wound up with brighter headlights too. http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

I can mock up one up in the morning but I've tried finding a picture when you first posted, with no luck. I'm not a good process photographer, I get excited and all I see is the finish line.

I used those Ford ones, they're a little fat but work good.

Could this be it? Part of the threaded rod. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/accelerator-choke-throttle

Go down just past half way on this page. Looks like your's is for '75-'78, just the boot is for '70-'74. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRubber.php

Here's an old list I have saved. You'll probably want to google the numbers to make sure they are compatible with the 240Z, some are for the 2000 Roadster. I got lucky and found a complete set of SUs on craigslist I rob parts from occasionally. Part Name Part Number Price (each) Available? Gasket Kit (2) 16455-H2310 $3.30 YES N-17 Jet Needle (2) 16354-25611 $8.81 YES Inlet Screen/Filter (2) 16098-73401 $.65 YES Fuel Pipe (2) 16356-25610 $13.68 YES Banjo Bolt (2) 16108-18010 $1.69 YES Float (2) 16061-E4310 $11.90 YES Nozzle, Front 16355-25610 $19.11 YES Nozzle, Rear 16355-25611 $17.99 NLA Float Valve (2) 16101-25610 $10.06 NLA Float Spring/Lifter (2) 16325-10400 $1.38 YES Suction Spring (2) 16346-25610 $2.54 NLA Screws, for Domes and Float-chambers (16) 16129-73013 $.24 NLA Washers, for Domes and Float-chambers (16) 23502-30000 $.33 NLA

@HaZmatt

That guy from Texas did a wrap on a 280. Can't remember now??? it was clear though to protect the paint.

Save money but pray you don't hit a big bug.

MSA has the $600 one I read someone had bought. There's cheaper ones for sure but thinner I think. I bought a cheap one for my Nissan pick-up and it was thinner glass. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/30-3051

I recall $600? The chrome trim around the windshield is the unicorn.

There he is!!! I suffer from many mental conditions but CRS is #1.

He lives in north Carolina. He stays with with co workers in Memphis in a trap house. Sorry Ferg but I think highly of pilots and have a half arse good memory. If I hadn't cut my foot off at 16, almost, I would've been in the military and gone for the jockey seat. But things happen and here I am wishing I was able to talk to the controllers. I'd look forward to meeting you at ZCON this fall if you can make it.

Here it is.

Look for a recall fix sticker on the passenger's side of your hood, close to the vent. Nissan had one for that coupler connection for the '77. They added a clip to secure it but apparently it wasn't enough for my car.

I deleted my stuff because the tube coupler from the exhaust to the intakes underside tunnel had gotten loose long ago and rotted a hole in the aluminum creating a huge vacuum leak. Plus as Dave says above just to lessen potential failure points. We have no smog test here and it gave me a lot cleaner looking topside. I'm not a bells and whistles type, simple is my preference. Plus my thermal vacuum switch was broken just like yours and I wasn't able to figure out a way around that so I started "the rippin' and the tearin'"

Have you tried cleaning where the ground wire from the battery to the bolt on the starter, it goes to the top bolt I think. You could sandpaper the area on the bell housing.

I think I would plug these two hoses. I removed all that stuff and put an N42 intake manifold on mine. In the end I just had to plug the one at the throttle plate, lower left in the photo. If I remember right it sits on top of the heating plate that connects to the thermostat housing and connects to BPT valve, whatever that is/was.

could you mark where the lock nut is now then back it off to give you some more play with the rod? I've used these I stole from my doctors office. Needle nose vise-grips would work too, or regular needle nose pliers with a rubber band around the handles. Good luck!