siteunseen

Did the leak stop? If you got that stopped I think you should put a new metal fuel filter in the engine bay then a clear plastic Fram G3 fuel filter in between the tank and the pump. That way you'll see crud before it gets too far. I can provide some links on this in the morning if you don't have them already. Simple stuff. I see you replaced the filter already but if you have a dirty tank it'll clog up quick.

That's exactly what I'm trying to describe. If the new valve I have doesn't shut the hot coolant out I'm going to use something like what you have. Thank you!

Thanks Cman! I used a long screwdriver probably to get the guide into it's tightest position. One day it'll loose up.

I just turned my a/c on, it's 76 inside after walking the dog. I'm doing an impersonation of Sweaty Betty.

It was 25 degrees a week ago. Today, 75.

Is that something close to Dizeased's famous P79/F54 motors? And I agree with you, that was an unbelievable blessing.

I remember using a pry to get the curved guide as tight as possible. I can see it in this picture. And what looks like a gap on the tensioner plunger is actually a black rubber washer, it was tight!

I'd like to see it Jai, thank you.

Thank you all for the replies. I had one helluva time setting it up, like Chickenman says it was a SOB to get the sprocket on. I had the valve cover off yesterday and tried squeezing the chain in a little but NO movement, tight as a guitar string still. I guess I haven't driven it enough to put wear grooves in the side guides? Steve my old #110 that I sold was an older build and it just seemed looser and had a better rev up through the gears. This one has a new to me/it 5 speed and aluminum flywheel so it go through gears fast, I'm not used to that. It feels like it needs more timing but I can't go any more with the plate's groove. I'll put some miles on it and think about what to do next. Thanks again guys. Cliff

Recently rebuilt 2.4 with a super tight timing chain, I started off new in #2 hole on cam sprocket. It seems like I might be losing some power with that setting and want to go with hole #1. Would that loosen the chain up a little? Relieve some of the strain? Thanks for any help/direction.

Loading my clothes and looked up to see this.

I can't remember right off, I'll look in my file and see if I can find the receipt. It's for a ZX, I know that. Seems like I had a hard time finding a timing kit for a 2.4 then someone said the racers use ZX kits so that's what I bought. Power Line I think. After fiddling with carbs floats for a couple of weeks I finally got them at 23mm. Tuned the nozzles and ended up at 3 1/2 turns down. My car finally runs like the other 240 I had, it pulls hard until the redline then I shift up. So damn happy!

Flat washer against aluminium parts, FYI, like Zed's photo. Here's another view.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic08a02a

Mine has a Metric 600T spare, I don't know if that's the brand name or just the size?

I was thinking if he had the cam sprocket groove and the line on the cam lock down plate lined up, the damper might line up with the 0 mark. It's not very far judging by his pictures.

Ooops! It's 1/4", sorry.

I couldn't ever get that to work by myself, didn't try too long after I realized I needed another pair of hands. With someone checking the .55" measure for you it will be easier. I was trying to do everything looking at the mirror's reversed image. 1/8th clear hose will work on the very bottom nipple of the float chamber. Hardware or aquarium supply store should have this. 2 feet is enough for both carbs. Good luck.

Nice looking car! Looks almost identical to mine so I'll be watching this for some ideas/tips. I sure was happy to get rid of my Yorx a/c compressor and that pulley bracket, it was inop anyway and a huge pain in the butt.

That's the same as my early '72, pointer and pulley. I think it would be worth the time figuring out if your timing chain sprocket lines up with the TDC markings. I've got that stuff outside in a storage building and if I took each piece and took a picture of them separate then you would be able to figure it out. I'll try and get that together for you asap but it's COLD!!! down here. A quick way to look and see if it's close is look at the front of the pulley at TDC. The notch on the crank's nose where the "key lock"? slides in should be pointed straight up. I found a thrust plate in my guest/junk room. If you'll look through the hole on the cam sprocket, to the left you'll see a notch on the backside of the sprocket and in that notch you should see a small line to the left of the bolt on the thrust plate. The whole reason I'm saying this is because it may be as easy as moving the cam sprocket to the next hole. They have #1, #2 and #3 for adjusting out the chain stretch.

2 inch is what I have, it's a good tight fit. two and a quarter inch would be perfect and would go all the way down and sit flat over the opening. That one over the shift coupler is an inch and a half I believe.

Thank you! Here's the ones I need, latch area of hatch door. https://zcardepot.com/weatherstripping/gaskets-grommets/hatch-rubber-plug-grommet-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-78.html

fantastic! Thank you again. checked 240rubberparts.com and found nothing for the hatch. I need to measure, probably be wise.

Thank you for that info. I have a piece of Gorilla tape over the passenger's side in my 240, luckily the carpet hides it but I'd like another plug and haven't been able to find one yet. Any ideas for the two on the hatch bottom? Thanks!