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That's not too big of a job. They can use rope stuffed in the plug holes to hold the valves up or compressed air. Remove the springs and stem retainers and slide the new ones on. I don't have a clue what a shop would charge though, seals are $20 but the labor? $200? Glad it's not serious.

I've pulled and reinstalled complete motors for two rebuilds. Timing cover water pump everything but the fan. You'll need to remove the radiator also. Blowing air in the cylinder and hissing noise could be unseated valves as well. That might explain the unburnt fuel too. If the valves are way out of adjustment that could be your issue? Sometimes lash pads come off then you keep driving but the valve train will tick like crazy.

35 miles on a rebuild and it smokes that bad but has good compression? Sounds like valve stem seals may have dried out out and cracked if the motor sat for a while? If your Dad said it had a hotter cam you may need to adjust the valves to the cams specs? or the cam could be smashing down on the seals. There may be a reason you bought a fresh rebuild for a good price? I certainty hope nothing is too serious.

Let the 240 take a break and drove a BMW to wake up to this...

Mine adjusted out and works fine. This is just spit balling, a lot of folks remove the BCDD, but have you cleaned the throttle body "throat"? They get gummed up and stick. You can clean that with a toothbrush and lacquer thinner. Just a thought. There's a lot f info on deleting the BCDD. Blue's Tech Tips cover that I think. You make a cover plate for the hole and disconnect the other stuff.

Congratulations!

When I was a teenager my Dad and I rebuilt my '76. He's all American when it comes to cars. He did the firing order like a straight 6 Chevy. No go. Talked to a buddy and swapped the wires around and Boom, ran like a champ until I totaled it.

Is the vacuum hose hooked up and in good shape to the fuel pressure regulator? All the air hoses are routed the right way? Sounds to me like it's not getting enough air. The throttle blade may be inoperable? Have you taken the black cover off the AFM and "fingered" the vane with the weight on the other end? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm Thanks @240260280 for this information

It's not a '78 Z. Cloth interior and an auto with mechanical issues. $3,500 would be great if you can get it. Without being able to drive it I'd be closer to $2,500 but maybe you'll get lucky.

I know this an older thread but I bought a 2.4 complete motor from a guy going to SB Chevy for $300. Best money I've spent besides Art Singers choke lever holder.

Yeah it's above where the emergency brake pedal would be in American cars. Theres all kinds of test you can do to them but the easiest is "borrow" one from a running car and plug it up. Maybe somebody close by has a spare? Honestly I wouldn't loan mine in fear of something frying it from a bad ground. Good luck.

Make sure these aren't crossed.

Without holding the throttle wide open try and crank it over. I've heard of the injectors magnets getting stuck after sitting for awhile. Try tapping each one with a screwdriver handle. The injector replacing in '15 might have been an attempt to fix the real problem? This is for a '77 but should be the same. The EFI may not be grounding and running continuously. Clean the grounds. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Yes it does look good. Should quite the cabin down a good bit too.

I hope you find the car. That would be a neat story to share. Have you tried googling the vin#? I bought a 240 once and just for the heck of it I googled the numbers. Found 30 plus photobucket pics, a video of it running and a brief history I'd never known. Apparently the owner before the guy I bought it from listed it on ebay and google picked up the vin from years ago.

The acetone is for evaporating the water rinse out before you apply the red-kote. Acid then baking soda mixed with water, then acetone and finally the red-kote. I let mine sit for at least a week then temporarily installed a glass filter to see if any "pink gas" was flowing through my system. You can see it in this picture at the beginning of the fuel rail.

The next rainy day I can go into better detail on what I've learned about theses L motors. I've rebuilt dirt bikes and outboard boat motors, both two stroke without valves and an oil pump. Never rebuilt a car motor. I bought a book "How to rebuild L series motors" by Tom Monroe from amazon.com for less than $20 bucks. I rebuilt the first ever without any problems. That book and help from guys on this forum and I have a great running 280Z. Then I got into 240s and carburetors. Rebuilt a 2.4 L motor that also turned out great. Very anxious at first but the book and the helpful folks here got me through it and I've never had to look back. I try my best to help people now from what I've learned. These motors are super easy to work on you just need some direction to get going.

Very misleading thread title.

Apologize and I'm sorry are way traveled down the road. Opinions make all this fun. If you want to be a play like moderator you'll need to go back and read 10 years worth of post. There's a lot of history in play, I suggest stay out of it. We are all grown men and have the choice to ignore or reply. I chose to ignore the silly stuff and pay attention to the facts. HS-30 has a lot of knowledge as does Zed Head. A lot of guys don't agree with me but twice as many do.

Another good read, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

I like the Fel-Pro complete rebuild gasket set. You'll have some left over as it covers all the models. Don't skimp on the timing kit, get a good one not the cheapest one on e-bay. I bought a lot of my stuff from amazon.com and Advanced Auto parts with coupon codes off retailmenot.com and saved a bunch of money. I would also reccomend buying and using these things, there's a lot more but I just woke up and still fuzzy.

Another trophy on your shelf. You're gonna need a longer shelf! Jealous emoji

"Foreign matter" in Tuscaloosa? Somebody dropped a Rohypnol in your carb.

Red-Kote, $30 a quart and that's plenty, O'Reilly auto parts is where I got mine. Google "red-kote directions" it's a Damon product I think? Read those directions then ask about anything you don't understand. If you plan ahead and everything ready to use it is not too hard to do. The tank will need a week to cure the liner. Can not rush that or your screwed.

SEM makes a rust inhibitor that's some type of mild acid. Your area is so small I wouldn't buy a whole quart. Just go by a body shop and have them treat it until you can get it done proper.