siteunseen

Get some RTV silicone and stick those gaskets onto the lids, you can take them off and on a lot more without tearing them. I've always read 2.5 turns couterclockwise on the nozzles will leave the fuel level right under the over flow limit or the cusp of the tubes. And yes the tang on the float should be parallel with the float top with the hump in the middle. If it looks like a ramp it's too high. The front and rear should be close to the same height off the float. The ramp in the middle is what's important.

I used 5/16" but I think it calls for 10mm in the FSM.

No dust and no rocksThe whole thing is over

Moving right along with jack rabbit speed.

Maybe he's a little intimidated by removing the float chamber lids? It is a little tough until you figure out how they need to be turned from horizontal to vertical to get the float to slip by, also RTVing the gaskets to the lids makes it much easier in the future. I would do what Black Gold Man suggested, go to that race track's pit area and find a Datsun mechanic. Seems like he is using a Porsche guy? I quit reading a year or so ago, my hair was falling out because I was "pulling my hair out" from frustration.

And you may ask yourself, wellHow did I get here?

Remember it? I still sing it. That was a song after you heard it you thought "how mean?" Then Rap, shoot the police, rape the girls and sell crack lowered the bar to the floor. Newer Newman.

Mark, I mentioned to Jalex a few years ago what Steve says in the Just SUs DVD. They're shipped dry, no resistance in the float chamber to slow the float against banging around during shipping. You have his respect, I don't, maybe he'll listen and verify the floats setting. Good luck.

When the carbs are right it's like a new car. I drove mine yesterday, bogged it down in third gear and gave it some gas. Away I went, can't make it stumble and I try.

So what are you saying, y'all got in a big ole pile and you annoyed the ladies? That's a weekend for me. I'm a good annoyer.

Here's what I bought. Can't tell is he still in bidness?

Maybe before Zcon '18 I'll have shiny headed SS bolts but for me this an OCD lesson, compromise function over form. 8^) I've PM'd a couple of guys that will run into this minor mistake. Maybe they'll read this and see your Mr Grinder video? 8^) The Grinder app has ruined that word for me. No longer in my vocabulary. Thanks pervs!

I bought some stainless bolts that were an 1/8" too long. Never had a good seal until I put the Nissans back. Happened on the oil pump too. OE bolts, no drips no more.

'77s fpr are inline, the hose on bottom is the vacuum line. I think he wants a simple look? Not just another fuel rail. He saw mine! Heh heh, I'm a simpleton.

I forgot the link! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41136-make-a-fuel-rail/

Here's a good read when you can. Check out Blue's #2 post. He made one for free from the stock rail. Mine cost me $50 in material. If you can find one for $100 buy it. If they're $200 I'll make you one.

Stayed out for about an hour. It hit the right leg of the "M" like usual and never moved. Fixed the leak though so very happy. So much I'm about to give it a bath, maybe the dog too. It's 65 degrees and sunny. 8^) I'll get another gasket on the cast impeller pump, clean it up and put it back on in a year or two. Getting the four lock washers and nuts on the fan clutch isn't something I enjoy, actually I hate something so simple to be so tough.

No, these were just the small injector connectors and the ones on the thermostat housing. They were like $10 to $20? I can find them later today.

I really like my 15×7 Koning Rewinds. All aluminum and real light weight. I paid around $100 each on sale and mail in rebates from directtire.com

Yep, the dealer installed aluminium "Slots" and kept the OE hubcaps.

I was thinking '72 through '76? I think the wheels got wider on the 280s but the , I call them scallops, hubcaps should be the same. Good luck finding a nice set for reasonable money. There's a lot of info on here about restoring them. The red center piece is what fades and looks bad on any in my price range. Somebody had a set of steelies on here the other day for sale.

Back in the beginning I linked what we call "Blue's Tech Tips", maybe my first reply? Anyway on the "efi and fuel" category there's one sub that says "dropping a fuel tank". Give that a look if you haven't already.

There's a guy on ebay that sales the plastic connectors in a kit for the 280s injectors and cold start valve. The thermotine and the coolant sensor also use them. It comes with heat shrink to go over the soldered wires you'll have to connect.

This is sitting in my garage, no airflow with a 180 thermostat. It gets to 175-180 & opens. The first picture is the cast iron impeller in an aluminum housing, 173. The second one is a cheapo GMB from a local chain store, 164. Well hell, I can't find the 173F pic. It'll be hiding between healthy and heavy. A follow up will follow.

Verdammt! You have a nice place with nice toys. No neighbor promblem, room for "Field of Dreams" diamond. Beautiful car and background.